HermanH's PASSAT Site

Tools Required

Digital Fuel Pressure Gauge Installation with New South Steering Column Gauge Pod

During the months of June and July, driving my new "K04'd" Passat, a few problems cropped up which lead to other theories as to why I'm not seeing the performance from the K04 as I was expecting. A large part of it was FMIC leaks and the other GIAC programming. But part of this was also fuel delivery. While the K04 issue is not fully sorted out to date (7/31/03) I did spend some worthwhile money on getting a fuel pressure gauge. This was necessary for dialing in the fuel pressure from my adjustable fuel pressure regulator which I also purchased, along with larger injectors.

Thanks to "Rusty" for the extensive help on getting part numbers and vendors listed so I could easily get the parts in short order. The following is a list of part numbers and/or vendors that I used for this project:

Napa Auto Parts:

Qty: 1 P/N 3700 : 1/8 NPT Female "tee"
Qty: 2 P/N 057058-102 : 1/8 NPT male hose ends
Qty: 2 P/N 705-1226 : Fuel Injection hose clamps

Nordskog Performance Products:

Qty: 1 P/N: M8034 : 0-100 PSI Digital Fuel Pressure Gauge w/ hi-low button.
Qty: 1 P/N: S8434 : 100 PSI Fuel Pressure Sending Unit

New South Performance:

Qty: 1 P/N POD002 : Audi A4 Column Pod.

Misc. Items:

3M Double-sided foam adheasive
Zip-ties
Various male/female terminal connectors. If you like, color code them too.

NOTES: Gasoline is a highly flamable substance; care must be taken to ensure you perform this in a well ventilated area and away from any appliance that can produce a spark. Also recommend you do not perform the fuel line "cutting" when the engine is still hot.

INSTALLATION:

1. Remove the engine cover. Locate the fuel delivery line, which is the forward most line attached to the fuel rail. Mark the area you want to put the "T".

2.Build the "T". You do not necessarily need to use Teflon tape on the threads since all of them are tapered and should provide a leakproof seal provided you torque them down sufficeintly.

3. With the T built, install the Fuel Pressure Sensor into the brass T; turn this until all but a thread or two is exposed; it will be tight to turn but it's ok. Again, it's a tapered fit.

4. Using a pair of clamps, I cut off the fuel supply line on either side of the area I marked for cutting. I also put a lot of paper towels and rags directly below the area I was going to cut to catch any fluid.

5. After cutting the, I would recommend you cut about 1" of exposed tube off; the T will be approx. 1" wide after the hoses are inserted onto the T. Now insert the T into each hose and tighen the hose clamps. Hose clamps use a 5/16" socket or flat blade screwdriver.

6. Release the clamps. Turn the ignition key to the Accessory mode and watch for any leaks from your T and clamps.

7. Run the black ground line to a nearby ground; I crimped on a 1/4" terminal ring and attached the ground to one of the 5mm valve head cover bolts.

8. Run the red signal line into the ECM box to gain access into the cabin. Since my boost gauge hose runs through it as well, it was a natural access point. Note the line will not be long enough; I had some 14 ga. yellow wire so I soldered an additional 3 feet of yellow wire to the red signal lead and used some shrinkwrap to finish it off.

9. The gauge was prepped by crimping on male/female terminal connectors. There are 4 wires for the Nordskog gauge: red = +12v, black = ground, Orange = sending unit signal, and purple = dimmer. For my taste, I didn't want to mess with the dimmer so I simply tied it to the red power lead per the supplied instructions.

10. Remove the lower dash valence completely. The yellow signal wire is more than long enough to reach the steering column so I crimped on a terminal connector. For +12v, I ran a red wire from the terminal block under the dash ( number 30 ) and crimped one side with a ring terminal connector, and the other side, with a corresponding male/female connector to mate with the one from the pressure gauge. For ground, I used black wire and crimped both sides similarly using a nearby 13mm bolt near the fuse box for a ground.

11. Now connect all terminal connectors (yellow sensor signal line, red power and black ground) to their respective terminal connectors on the pressure gauge. (If you decide to run a dimmer, you will need to create a separate line for that.) Turn the ignition key to the Accessory position and check to ensure eveything is working.

12. Disconnect the pressure gauge; it's on to the final step: column pod mounting.

13. Press the gauge into the New South Column Pod. It will be a nice tight fit. Then using the square "U" bracket, tigthen down the two nuts until the U-bracket digs into the pod. The nuts use a 5/16" socket; it'll be tight getting the ratchet in but it does work.

14. Use a window cleaner or alcohol to clean both the inside surface of the NS Pod and the top of the steering column where it will be mounted to.

15. Apply the 3M double-sided foam adhesive to the pod.

16. Release the lever under the steering column and move the steering wheel as far down and as far out as possible.

17. Before removing the backing from the 3m adheasive, test fit the pod to ensure you have a good idea how you're going to position it. Then remove the backing and carefully position the pod; be sure you get the wires out of the way of the tape! Then press down on the column FIRMLY; press down everywhere to ensure you get all of the tape.

18. Now reconnect the wires one last time and ziptie excess. You should leave enough slack for the telescopic movement of the steering wheel.

19. Test the gauge one more time before reinstalling the lower valence.

Final note: I discovered the hard way, that I mounted the pod just a little too close to the steering wheel itself and sheared off the hi-low button on the gauge! And it also slighly rubs against the steering wheel constantly. So when positioning the pod, be extra careful in getting it as far away from the steering wheel itself. However, you may also want to trim the button on the gauge.

5/16" 1/4" drive socket
13mm 1/4" drive socket
1/4" drive ratchet
1/2" open end wrench
9/16" open end wrench
5mm allen wrench
Flatblade screwdriver
T20 torx driver.
Terminal Crimper
Utility knife or other cutting tool

Optional: 2 ratchet style clamps