HermanH's
PASSAT Site
Project: SNKVENM
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Project: SNKVENM |
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| Disclaimer: By reading this, the reader accept full responsibility in performing the following work at his or her own risk. I cannot assume responsibility for any damage, injury, dismemberment or death, as a result of you the reader, following my instructions. I supply this information freely, for those interested in knowing what is involved with such modifications on my own personal vehicle. If you find you would like to perform a similar modification to your vehicle, I urge you to first seek the advise of a qualified mechanic prior to undertaking any of the work. Some work will require physical strength that may be beyond your ability to perform |
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Tools Required |
K04-15 Turbocharger UpgradeThe K04-15 turbocharger is an upgrade to the existing KKK-K03 turbo that come standard on 1.8T Passats. The primary difference between a K03 and K04 is both the exhaust turbine vane and the compressor vane. The profile for exhaust side can't be seen from the outside, but the compressor side is very distinct:
For another perspective on the K04 upgrade, please click on this URL: http://www.europeanspeed.com/k042.htm I purchased my K04 from Dynospot Racing. They carry both Eurospec and AWE Tuning's K04 kits. The big difference between the two is AWE supplies spark plugs while Eurospec does not. Both have all the gaskets and washers plus the 5 bar fuel pressure regulator (FPR). The other big difference is price. Being a current GIAC customer, you do get credit towards the K04 EMC upgrade. However, Eurospec was a couple hundred dollars less expensive. The reason is: they use new K03 unit and replace the compressor and turbine designed for a K04, to create a K04-15 system. The only question is: are the turbine and compressor vanes sourced from KKK themselves or not. I do not have an answer to this. Before You Begin:
Instructions:1) Jack up the front of the car and put on jack stands. 2) Remove the belly pan. 3) Remove the oil drain plug and let all the oil drain out. At this time, you can also remove/replace the oil filter. Do NOT fill with new oil at this time. 4) Back on top, remove ALL
plastic engine covers and the inlet duct to the air box. 5) Recommend at this time to remove and replace the FPR. Remove the hose clip from the vacuum line and remove from the FPR. Pull the large clip from the FPR and using channel locks, gently twist and lift the FPR from the receptacle.
6) You may need to use a rubber mallet to tap in the FPR. It SHOULD be a tight fit (after all, we are talking about combustible substance that could cause a fire!) If you don't have a rubber mallet, use a soft piece of wood and use it to cushion the blow of a hammer. Then reseat the FPR clip and reinstall the vacuum line. 7) Back down, after all the oil has drained, plug up the drain hole and torque the plug to 30 Nm ( 22 ft.-lbs.) In my case, I have a Pela 6000 oil extractor so this part was not necessary for me to do. 8) While you're down there, use a 10mm socket and remove the two 10mm bolts from the turbo's oil return tube. Have something to catch any remaining oil that might drain from the tube.
9) While still down below, find the spring loaded down pipe bracket and use a 13mm socket to remove the bolt so the DP is free. This allows enough movement for the cat to separate from the turbo later on.
10) Still down there? Ok, begin removal of the hoses to the intercooler tube, the diverter valve. You'll need either an 7 or 8mm 1/4" socket or a phillips screw driver for nearly all the clamps on this car. If your DV signal hose needs replacing, now would be a good time to do so. 11) Back up top for some air because next, we remove the air box. This allows all the room you'll need to work on the turbo. There is no real need to take the box "apart", rather, we will simply flip it out of the way. Start by removing the 10mm bolt that anchors the top of the air box to the chassis.
12) Next remove the 4 phillips screws that holds the heat shield in place; you need to remove this so you can remove the EVAP line that is anchored to air box and leads to the pressure regulator valve. Once the heat shield is removed, remove the two black Phillips screws to release the EVAP line. 13) Loosen the hose clamp and remove the intake hose from the air box. Be careful nothing touches the now exposed MAF sensor inside the box. Also, remove the N75 plug from the N75 valve (see Step 14 picture for location). The airbox can now be flipped out of the way:
14) There are several hoses that tie the turbos intake hose; kind of reminds me of a ginseng root. At the center of this is the N75 wastegate control valve. This has 3 tubes, one of which goes directly into the intake hose. The second goes to a pressure sensor from the casing of the turbo, and the third goes to the wastegate acutator itself. You will need to remove the two hoses that lead to the turbo. The hose clamps are a one-time-use so you'll need to mangle these to release the hoses.
15) Remember that EVAP hose attached to the airbox? It leads into the intake hose. I removed this from the EVAP line.
16) If you've done everything properly, the primary inlet tube can be removed w/N75 valve attached, which provides much needed room t remove the turbo.
17) With the pressure regulator
valve detached from the EVAP tube, you can begin removing the "oil
deflector", where the oil supply line runs inside of. Start with
unbolting two 5mm hex bolts to allow the large EVAP tube to move around;
one 5mm hex bolt is located near the front/top of the valve head, the
second is towards the rear; refer to the pictures for location.
18) Place a turkey pan or large tray under the A/C compressor; it would help to have as large a tray as possible since coolant will drip from multiple places below. Then, using a 19mm flare (or open end wrench), remove the coolant return line. A lot of coolant will flow out of here. I would recommend based on my experience, to allow the coolant to simply flow out. You can optionally just drain all the coolant; I didn't take a picture of this but there is one drain plug at the water pump, and another in the radiator. By draining from both, you should be able to drain all the coolant from the block ( 7.4 quarts ).
19) Using a 13mm flare or open end wrench, remove the oil supply line. 20) The coolant supply line is easier to remove from the block rather than at the turbo. You will need to follow the banjo bolt/hose to the hose clamp on the other side; it uses an 8mm socket to loosen. 21) Just below the oil supply line fitting is a 6mm hex bolt that attaches the turbo to the turbo-support bracket (refer to Step 18 picture). You will need to use something like a long skinny pipe along with a long handled 6mm hex wrench; the bolt is a grade 10 so do NOT worry about going at it with all your strength.
22) With all of the hoses either loose or removed, you can now remove the three 17mm nuts from the catalytic converter (refer to Step 18 picture.) The one underneath is easier to remove if you have an 18" extension and a universal joint. I had no problems at all with this setup. 23) Finally, remove the three 17mm bolts that hold the turbocharger unit to the exhaust manifold (refer to Step 18 picture.) The turbocharger weighs around 2 lbs. Be sure you're holding the turbo up when you're unbolting it. Again, the second person will come in handy here. The tricky part AFTER the bolts are out, is to have one of you go down under and guide the oil return line up while the other person is lifting the turbo up. Throw away all gaskets (oil supply, exhaust/cat, and exhaust /turbo).
24) With both the old turbo and new turbo side by side, begin removing all of the hydraulic fittings from the hold turbo and transfer them to the new one, keeping in mind to replace ALL crush washers as needed. Note that the coolant supply line uses a bracket and 10mm bolt to hold it in place.
25) My favorite part: assembly is the reverse of removal. Just saved me some 20 steps of typing! Please refer to the Bentley diagram for all torque settings. The only one that I didn't scan was the one for the oil deflector; so here they are:
Also, thanks to passaturbonium, I would recommend you drip in some motor oil into the oil supply fitting when the turbo is bolted in. A good tablespoon should do it.
26) Once you've double checked your torque settings, it's time to refill the oil and coolant. Refer to the Bentley manual for the coolant but generally speaking, the G12 coolant is not premixed and requires a 50/50 mix of G12 and distilled water. The coolant takes awhile to fill since thermostat is shut so be prepared to spend some time on this. 27) Go over EVERYTHING with your buddy to ensure everything was buttoned down (belly pan, oil cap, coolant cap, engine covers, etc.) and that the torque wrench was used in everyplace possible, and all hose clamps are nice and tight.A word to the wise: although the torque on the hydraulic fittings seem rather light when compared to other engine bolts, the crush washers WILL do their job as long as you DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN them. This is a case where more is not better. 28) If you're replacing the ECM yourself, you should know already what to do: remove negative from the battery, open up ECM and swap out boards, button up the black box, reattach the negative battery post, and perform the 2 minute TB adaptation drill. 29) Now, start the car and set your RPM's to 2,000 for 3 minutes. This is the routine for the coolant; you can have your buddy watch the coolant level during this time, and have him add coolant to the max. line. During this time, you will see tons of smoke emanating from the turbo and exhaust manifold. This is NORMAL. I had used Liquid Wrench to help unfreeze the bolts and nuts ahead of time so they're just burning off as the car begins to warm up.We waited until the temperature gauge went to 190 deg. Before we did the final top-off of coolant. We let the engine run for 15 minutes, watching for leaks above and below. Everything looked clean. When you're convinced it's not going to leak, take it for a spin. Do a few runs to 60mph and then check for leaks again. Note the new whine of the turbo! This one's gonna turn some heads!
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3/8" drive ratchet Additional Materials: Various sized zipties. Try to get those designed for outdoor use. Your choice of oil
& filter G12 Coolant (pn: G-012-A8F-A4) 1 Gallon Distilled or Ionized water 3mm I.D. silicone hose (optional)
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