Kayak Pages (Cont.)
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Half of the hull with a sealer coat of epoxy on it. If you have never done fiberglassing before, I recommend that you apply a sealer coat first. Many texts advocate not doing this as it adds another step. Granted it does add another step, though it gives you an opportunity to see how the epoxy works. I found that the application of the glass after the sealer coat was breeze. |
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Here the whole hull is sealed. Notice how I oriented the grain runout on the strips towards the middle. Your strips don't always have to be perfectly colored. |
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Notice the severe concave area of the keel. This did
not cause any problems when it came time to glass. Be careful not to apply
too much pressure when you squeegee off the excess resin. If you do, the
cloth will come out of the recess.
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The cloth is laid in place. Notice that the abrasion patch is also in place. I applied both pieces at once. This was no problem since I eliminated the the potential of the wood to absorb the resin (sealer coat). Get yourself a bubble roller (about $7). It helps in the thorough saturation of the cloth as well as helping to get the cloth tight with the wood. Don't apply too much pressure with the roller as it will damage the cloth. |
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Laying the cloth on the bias enabled it to conform to the irregular curves with not problems. I didn't have to cut anything to make it conform. Notice Monkey Boy assisting with this process. Use a clean brush to smooth the cloth out prior to the application of any resin. |
April 19, 2001