Guide to organic solutions
to common lawn and yard problems
•
How to control lawn
grubs
•
How to prevent crabgrass
•
How to beat poison ivy
• And more!
Northeast Organic Farming Association
and
Wellesley Pesticide Awareness Campaign
http://www.ci.wellesley.ma.us/nrc/pesticide
Introduction........................................................................................................................... 1
Basic Lawn Care................................................................................................................... 2
Soil Testing........................................................................................................................... 2
Crabgrass............................................................................................................................. 4
Grub Control......................................................................................................................... 4
Watering............................................................................................................................... 6
Human Biting Insects............................................................................................................. 7
Poison Ivy............................................................................................................................. 8
Wellesley Pesticide Awareness Campaign............................................................................ 10
The primary authors, Priscilla Williams and Michael Nadeau
are members of the Northeast Organic Farming Association's Organic Land Care
Committee. They are preparing standards for accrediting organic land care
professionals and working to educate the public about the meaning of “organic,”
and the benefits of this option for their own homes, neighborhoods and
communities. For more information, see http://ma.nofa.org
Visit WPAC’s partner, the Needham Garden Center, 53-R
Chestnut Street, Needham, MA for a full selection of organic fertilizers, soil
amendments, compost, and pest control, (781) 444-2401.
Lawns without Pesticides
are Beautiful
Americans care about
their lawns. They care enough to spend billions of dollars to the lawn care
industry annually. The problem is that in recent years, many Americans have
entertained the myth that lawns must be fed a diet of chemically based
fertilizers, pesticides, herbicides and fungicides in order to look
presentable. Decades of advertising and public relations promotions have built
the myth. Consumers pay twice to sustain this myth: first through their own
pockets and then through the price of contaminated water supplies and
endangered public health.
There is a groundswell of support for a change of attitudes about lawns. Many homeowners would like to discontinue the use of chemicals in their landscape but do not know how. It is becoming clear to them that the current fascination with an ideal lawn is not so ideal after all and, in fact, lawns without pesticides are more beautiful.
The Wellesley Pesticide Awareness Campaign is working to educate people about the hazards of pesticides, the benefits and beauty of organic lawns, and is helping them to transition to healthier lawn care methods. In an effort to encourage people to adopt pesticide-free practices, we are providing this booklet of information on how to manage commonly encountered lawn and yard pests.
Growing Season
Organic Lawn Care for the
Cheap and Lazy
Adapted from Paul Wheaton*
Must do:
· Set your mower as high as it will go (3 to 4 inches).
· Water only when your grass shows signs of drought stress and then water deeply (put a cup in your sprinkler zone and make sure it gets at least an inch of water).
Optional:
· Fertilize with an organic fertilizer, or top dress with 1/4 inch of organic compost, in the fall and spring.
· Have the pH of your soil professionally tested. Add lime if it is below 6.0 and gardener's sulfur if it is above 7.0.
· How much top soil do you have? See how deep a shovel will go into the soil. If you have less than four inches of soil, you must add topsoil.
· Overseed bare spots.
·
*More details on basic organic lawn care can be found at:
www.richsoil.com/lawn/
Early to Mid-April
Soil Testing is the First
Step for Your Organic Lawn and Garden
By Priscilla Williams and Michael Nadeau
Many of us have spent the winter dreaming of the changes we’ll make in our gardens and yards this season. Once the soil dries out, the first step before implementing new landscaping will be to take a soil test. A soil test allows you to add only materials that your lawn needs. Remember to request the percentage of organic matter in your sample, which should be at least 3.5 percent or more, along with organic recommendations.
The University of Massachusetts at Amherst offers soil analysis for a small fee. For a soil test form, call (413) 545-2311 or visit www.umass/edu/plsoil/soiltest. You can indicate the type of plantings you have in mind, and the appropriate recommendations will be made.
Fertilizing and liming, particularly of lawns, should always follow the soil test recommendations. Don’t fall into the habit of just adding a little more nitrogen or phosphorus, as over-fertilizing can cause pollution and lawn problems.
Use organic fertilizers and soil amendments, as these release their nutrients slowly and in a ratio that the plant can absorb. A balanced organic fertilizer will add the major plant nutrients: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) along with micronutrients and trace minerals. All these amendments are important for plant growth and a healthy soil, which is alive with microorganisms and earthworms which keep it aerated and fertile. Plants growing in healthy soil develop strong roots, stems and leaves and are better able to resist disease and insect damage.
Organic fertilizers will often have an N-P-K ratio in the range of 4-3-3, a typical low analysis. If an “organic” fertilizer contains either N, P, or K near the 10 range, chances are it contains a substance prohibited in an organic program, and you risk run-off of excess nitrogen. Study the label carefully. Avoid synthetic ingredients such as superphosphate and harmful "natural ingredients" such as nitrate of soda which contains excess salts.
Synthetic chemical fertilizers, such as 10-10-10, are highly water soluble, releasing ALL their nutrients within a short time. Excess nutrients are washed into our ground water, polluting our lakes, streams and drinking water with nitrates and phosphates. After a few weeks the synthetic fertilizer has completely dissolved and is no longer available to the plant. These petroleum-based chemical fertilizers tend to kill off beneficial microorganisms that keep the soil alive and healthy.
Organic compost is a wonderful soil amendment and the best source of minerals, nutrients and beneficial organisms. Follow soil test recommendations for the use of compost. It can be applied at any time, but spring and late summer top-dressings of 1/4" depth are preferred. Read labels carefully and avoid any product that contains sewage sludge (biosolids), which may contain harmful heavy metal contaminants. Wetting agents (synthetic polymer additives) in compost should also be avoided. The Soil Testing Laboratory at UMass Amherst can analyze compost samples using the same testing form as for soil samples.
Late-April
Crabgrass in the Lawn?
Here’s the solution.
By Priscilla Williams and Michael Nadeau
Weeds are tolerated in an organic lawn to varying degrees. Many so-called “weeds” are beneficial to the lawn ecosystem. It wasn’t until the advent of selective herbicides that a lawn consisted of only grasses. Before that, any plant that lived under the mower blade was considered “lawn.” This diversity of species led to lawns which were more tolerant of adverse conditions.
Often excess weeds are a symptom of poor soil, a flag that lets you know a pH adjustment is needed. Correcting the soil pH ultimately controls weeds, as healthy turf and weeds cannot co-exist. The turf will shade and crowd out the weed.
In some cases, weeds can get out of hand and take over sections of lawn. If weeds need to be controlled, there are several organic products on the market approved for use. Corn gluten meal acts as a pre-emergent weed control that suppresses the establishment of plant weeds. It is applied in the spring between Forsythia and Lilac bloom, before weeds such as crabgrass emerge. It can be reapplied in early summer to prevent germination of late-season weed seeds
Because corn gluten meal is high in protein, it contains approximately 10 percent organic nitrogen. This nitrogen level needs to be accounted for in the overall lawn management program, so that nitrogen is not over applied during the season through additional fertilizer and compost applications, for example. The bare spots in the lawn where crabgrass was last year, treated with corn gluten, can be planted with an annual rye grass to “hold the spot” until a perennial lawn seed mixture can be established in the fall. Seed applied after corn gluten should be mixed with compost and the compost spread at least 2 inches thick in the bare areas.
Corn gluten meal is also effective in weedy flower beds, if applied before the weeds appear. Dust the meal on the bed as if it were salt and pepper hitting the dinner plate. (It doesn’t matter if the corn gluten contacts foliage. It only has pre-emergent properties, not post-emergent.) During the first season of use, apply the corn gluten meal again to the bed in the fall once the weeds have died back for winter.
Unwanted weeds that exist in the lawn or border, such as plantain or dandelions, can be organically controlled with the use of non-selective herbicides made from the essences of vinegar and lemon juice (ethanoic and acetic acids) or potassium salts. The weeds are cautiously spot sprayed, being careful to avoid any unnecessary over-spray or drift onto desirable lawn or plants. Two good products for this purpose are Burn Out™ and Scythe™. Always read the label directions carefully before use. Dandelions can also be physically removed with a two pronged metal hand tool which digs up the tap root.
Mid-May
An Organic Approach to Grubs
in Lawns
By Priscilla Williams and Michael Nadeau
As your lawn begins to green up, do you see bare, brown patches of soil here and there? Maybe you noticed them last fall, too. These areas are a sign that grubs (beetle larvae) have been feeding on the grasses in your lawn, literally pulling them out by their roots. Another sign of grub activity may be crows gathering on the lawn to tear up small patches or mole tunneling. Moles are voracious eaters of grubs and will quickly excavate large areas in search of their prey.
Wait – don’t reach for those chemicals! This year, try an organic approach to this problem. When the soil warms up to 55 degrees, milky spore bacteria (Bacillus popilliae) may be applied for safe, long-term control of the white Japanese and oriental beetle grubs.
While it may take two to three years to achieve complete control, milky spore is worth using due to its simple application method and effective long-term results. The spores multiply inside the grubs, and when the current infestation subsides, the spores lie dormant in the soil for up to 15 years, waiting to attack subsequent grub populations.
Be sure to follow the label instructions regarding application rate. It is most important to apply the milky spore powder on an overcast day and to water it in well to the lawn and surrounding garden bed areas where beetles have been a problem.
For short-term, fairly fast-acting control of Japanese beetle grubs, try Heterorhabditis bacteriophora. This is a beneficial nematode, a microscopic soil organism, that attacks deep-dwelling lethargic white grubs. Beneficial nematodes also need to be applied when direct sun will not dry them out, and they need to be watered in well, immediately after application.
Researchers are still exploring the use of other beneficial nematodes which show promise for control of other grub species in lawns. When renovating a lawn, select insect and disease-resistant cultivars of turf grass as a preventative strategy. These include fescues, ryes, and some bluegrasses.
Nature itself often can keep grub populations in check. A dry summer can kill thousands of grubs.
Handpicking is an ideal way to keep the adult beetle population under control if there are a limited number of plants being attacked. This is easiest to do in the early morning or late afternoon when the adult beetles are more dormant – you can just push them off the leaves. Use a drop of biodegradable soap in a jar of water to collect the feeding adults. Contrary to some traditions, there is no need to use oil or kerosene in the jar. Once they have died in the soapy water, just dump the whole jar in your trash, or better yet, your compost pile
Order the beneficial nematodes from The Green Spot, Ltd., (603) 942-8925, or BioLogic Supply Company, (717) 349-2789. Another good source of highly virulent milky spore is Doom™ from Fairfax Biological Laboratory, Inc., Electronic Road, P.O. Box 300, Clinton Corners, NY 12514; 845-266-3705. For more information, see http://ma.nofa.org
June
Good Watering Practices Can
Make All the Difference
By Priscilla Williams and Michael Nadeau
Plants need water. It’s a fact of life. If you plant it, you’ll have to water a new acquisition daily and then weekly for the first few months to get new roots established. Sometimes we’re lucky, and Mother Nature provides rainfall here and there to help us out. Many of us have chosen to install an automatic irrigation system to supplement what nature provides. This can be both good and bad for our plantings.
As we begin to think in environmentally-friendly ways, a good rule of thumb to keep in mind is “water only when needed.” An established organic lawn has an extensive root system, enabling it to find food and water even when it is dry. Such an enhanced root system will enable the lawn to survive many a dry spell.
During plant establishment, provide water as needed for the first season. Then wean the plants off water as soon as possible. A new lawn should be “syringe watered” with many light waterings until the new lawn is mowed several times. Then withhold water. The same goes for other types of plants. Water frequently to get the plant established, then water only during extended dry periods or drought.
How will you know if the plant has enough water, especially during a drought? Set up a rain gauge to measure rainfall, then plan to supplement with additional watering only as necessary. A empty tuna can tucked in an out-of-view spot makes a good homemade rain gauge to collect the one inch of water per week that is the maximum amount needed.
One inch of overhead watering (from Mother Nature or you) will effectively soak six inches down to the root zone of your lawn and plantings. You can easily check to see if the top six inches of soil is moist by using a long, narrow trowel. Avoid frequent shallow watering that does not penetrate to this six-inch depth, as this practice encourages surface root development, Japanese beetle grub infestation, fungus and root rot.
During periods of drought, a soaker hose system can be a lifesaver for beds and borders. It will deliver water directly to the root zone where plants need it the most. Systems can be connected to timers to help those who travel.
With automatic overhead irrigation systems, be sure to install a dry-weather sensor that will turn on the system only during dry periods. Systems designed to run every day, rain or shine, waste a tremendous amount of water. Set the timer to run in the early morning, so that moisture can quickly dry on plant leaves. Avoid watering in the middle of the day, when evaporation loss is greatest and much water is wasted. Overhead watering should also be avoided in the evening, when cooler night temperatures inhibit drying, often leading to fungal diseases.
Mulching at the proper depth conserves moisture and is a control aid for disease, insect damage and weeds. Mulch the entire perennial, vegetable or herb bed with one to two inches of shredded leaves, grass clippings, pine needles, buckwheat or cocoa hulls. Wood chips, shredded leaves or finely-ground bark mulches are an ideal mulch at a two to four inch depth around trees and shrubs. However, do not allow the mulch to touch the bark.
Finally, if you really want to save water, plant drought-tolerant species. Many perennials and herbs with silver leaves fall into this category. As an added bonus, their soft color complements both bright, bold colors and the quieter hues.
July
Fleas, Ticks, and Mosquitoes
By Priscilla Williams and Michael Nadeau
How wonderful it is to have the warm weather return! But there are three annoying insect pests that often can make the summer less than enjoyable: fleas, ticks and mosquitoes. Happily, there are organic controls which can be applied by the landscaper or the do-it-yourselfer which can help eradicate the problem.
First, learn to properly identify the pest. There are many types of fleas, ticks, and mosquitoes. A good reference book for basic identification and information is Ninety-nine Gnats, Nits and Nibblers by May R. Berenbaum (University of Illinois Press, 1989).
Gardeners working in their yards, as well as children and pets, can pick up ticks without knowing it, as ticks lurk in vegetation. It’s a good practice to conduct a tick check when returning indoors from an outdoor activity. Pay special attention to the scalp area and warm places such as armpits. Deer ticks are a major carrier of Lyme disease. Lyme disease can transmitted by ticks after they have been embedded in you for 24 hours. Tick checks performed every night before bed can greatly reduce the risks of getting Lyme disease. If you find a tick embedded on you or your pet, remove it with tweezers, then wash the area with soap and water or rubbing alcohol. Save the tick in a zip-sealed plastic bag for identification and possible testing for Lyme. If it is a Lyme disease carrying tick, call your doctor or local health department and ask for a fact sheet on Lyme, which will describe the symptoms of the disease. Do not squeeze an engorged tick, as it may regurgitate the Lyme disease vector into your body. Use tweezers where the head enters the body.
Fleas are very annoying and cause great discomfort to pets and people. Both dogs and cats carry them. They also lurk in vegetation and can be picked up while working and playing outdoors. Look for natural flea repellents for your pets, and make sure each pet wears a non-toxic flea collar. Keep pet sleeping areas frequently washed and vacuumed. Borax dries out fleas and can be used in the lawn or bedding.
In addition, over 20 species of fleas feed on humans. Flea bites are distinctively clustered in groups of two or three, particularly around the ankles and legs. They itch persistently.
A barrier of wood chips or gravel approximately three to five feet wide surrounding the perimeter of your property will drastically reduce the flea and tick population. Why? They do not cross such a barrier. They love moisture and hate dry, uneven surfaces. Diatomaceous earth is a good repellant for ticks – it scratches and irritates their exoskeletons.
We all know the annoying whine and bite of the mosquito! With the ever-present threat of West Nile virus, which is transmitted by mosquitoes, a good preventative strategy is to rid your property of areas of standing water where mosquitoes may breed. Watering cans, tires, buckets, and even children’s toys can all catch water. Empty them after each rainstorm or automatic irrigation interval. Better yet, turn these items upside down after use or take them indoors. Bird baths and water gardens without agitated water should also be avoided. Do not let water stand for more than four days. Mosquitoes also are responsible for transmitting heartworm to dogs.
Mosquito Dunks™ are donut-shaped floating larvicide dispensers containing Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis). Float these doughnut-shaped bricks in standing water for unequalled control of larvae without harm to beneficial insects. One doughnut treats 100 square feet of stagnant, standing water for 30 days. These are useful for containers such as decorative ponds which are difficult to drain on a regular basis.
Garlic sprays are the key to organic control of these three insect pests. Garlic repels rather than kills insects, so it is important to apply it before they have taken up residence, if possible. A spray can be made at home by liquefying 3 peeled cloves of garlic in the blender half filled with water. Strain out the garlic, and dilute with enough water to make a gallon. Use this to fill a spray bottle or sprayer. A drop or two of a biodegradable liquid soap will help conduct the solution through the spray mechanism more easily. Also, three natural oils that repel mosquitoes and gnats – lemon grass oil, peppermint oil, garlic oil – can be purchased as Dr. T’s Mosquito and Gnat Scat™. Clay is the inert ingredient.
A new product on the market called Garlic Barrier™ can be diluted in water for those who would like the ease of using a safe, effective, ready-made mixture. Follow the label directions carefully, which suggest a dilution rate of 1 part Garlic Barrier to 10 parts water. For large areas, such as a backyard abutting a wooded area, hire a landscaper who is willing to use a backpack or large wheeled sprayer to do the job.
Repeat the spraying of the property at least once during the summer in order to keep the pests under control. Before an outdoor party, have the property sprayed two days in advance. The garlicky odor quickly dissipates minutes after application.
August
The Summer Itch—Dealing with
Poison Ivy in your Yard or Garden
By Priscilla Williams and Michael Nadeau
It’s one of the worst possible itches, and most of the time, you don’t even know where or how you picked it up. Poison ivy, Rhus radicans, is a native plant that is usually less than welcome in the suburban yard or garden.
While its fruits provide valuable food for birds, the oils secreted by its leaves, stems and roots are toxic to humans. Indeed, the birds are the usual suspects in spreading the plant in garden beds or at the edges of the property. It thrives in both sunny and shady situations, in rich woodlands and in barren waste places. Poison ivy has the irritating habit of insinuating itself amidst other plants, perhaps as a survival mechanism. Often it will climb the nearest vertical structure, including trees and telephone poles. Or you may encounter it running along the ground.
Learn to recognize its “leaves of three” and “let them be” when walking in the woods. Another useful adage is, "Berries white, poisonous sight." The leaves are alternate on the stem and are divided into three leaflets. The leaf surface may be either glossy or dull green, and either smooth or somewhat hairy. Leaf color may vary due to the degree of shade (and weather conditions) from light to deep green, yellow-green or even red. Autumn color is yellow and bright red before the leaves drop. A white berry-like fruit remains through winter. At all seasons of the year, it causes skin irritation in humans. Domesticated pets may also come in contact with the plants and spread the harmful oils.
What if you want to clear a neglected corner that is infested with poison ivy to make a new garden space? Or what if a few seedlings of poison ivy are starting to make a toehold in an established shrub border or perennial bed? Is there an effective, alternative way to eradicate it without using herbicides?
The answer is a resounding “Yes.” Poison ivy will eventually die out if it is repeatedly clipped to the ground by mowing. In rural areas, grazing animals, such as sheep or goats, can clip it quite effectively. On suburban properties, after clipping it yourself, place a smothering mulch of cardboard topped with wood chips, bark mulch or shredded leaves over the area. This can be a very effective way to eradicate large patches. Small seedlings may be repeatedly hand-pulled using strong, non-absorbent protective gloves. Be sure to search down to at least six inches to find the running roots. Visit the area again within two weeks to check for resprouting.
Or try the “Glove of Death” technique, a chemical-resistant glove with an absorbent glove slipped over it. Dip this glove in Burn Out™ or Sythe™ (lemon juice and vinegar solution) and wipe on the foliage. Repeat a week later, if necessary, to completely kill the poison ivy.
Vines growing up fences or trees can be cut at ground level. Several days later, pull out as much of the wilted plants as possible. Or wait until winter when they can be pulled out without damaging delicate branches and will contain fewer oils.
When pulling out poison ivy, use long, plastic, newspaper bags or impermeable protective gloves to cover hands and arms up to the shoulder. Invest in a bottle of Tecnu™, a pre- or post-handling product that helps dispel the effects of any oils you may come in contact with during the cutting or pulling operations. Also, Avon makes a pre-handling product. (Read all ingredients of these carefully as they may not be suitable for sensitive skin.) Gather all plant parts in bags and dispose of the entire collection in the trash. Wash gloves completely with Fels Naptha™ soap, an old-fashioned, yellow-colored soap, and hang to dry. Or better yet, discard them. Under no circumstances should you burn the poison ivy or pour boiling water on it, as the poisonous oils will volatize.
The long-range objective of this
project is to reduce the exposure of children and adults to pesticides and
pesticide breakdown products which are known or probable health hazards, to
protect Wellesley’s water supply, and to restore Wellesley’s land use style to
healthier and less toxic land care practices.
The
Pesticide Awareness Campaign is spearheaded by the
Wellesley Health Department
in
partnership with
Natural
Resources Commission
Department
of Public Works
Wellesley
Cancer Prevention Project
Charles
River Watershed Association
Northeast
Organic Farming Association
Needham
Garden Center
Bread
and Circus Wellesley
Strata