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A local wine shop had Bob Biale in for a tasting of his new releases. His Monte Rosso was one of my favorite of the 97 zins, so I was glad for the chance to meet him. He was very approachable, answered a lot of questions, and shared his philosophy of wine. Biale has three other partners, including his brother and father. His father still farms a plot of land in eastern Napa valley, part of which is the Aldo,s Vineyard, planted by grandfather Biale in 1931. The first release was the 91 Aldo,s Vineyard Zinfandel. He sources all his grapes, and is seeking small, distinctive vineyards with high quality, low quantity grapes. He looks to get ripe fruit (25-26) and doesn't acidify. He has to negotiate with the growers, which sounds like a delicate give and take to get the growers to do something different with his grapes. He convinced Spenker to drop some crop and make some other changes, and they were both so happy with the 98 wine, that Spenker has adopted much of those changes to his entire vineyard. Also, the contracts for the land his father works ran out last year, so Bob will get getting those grapes as well, leading to another vineyard designate release or two. (They haven't decided on names yet)
The wines: 1998 Robert Biale Zinfandel, Spenker Vineyard. Lodi. $28. From a small part of the Spenker Vineyard, planted in the late 40s. The nose had deep, red fruit, blackberry, raspberry, and a spicy cinnamon/chocolate note. A little hot. The flavors were up front fruit, soft and lush, some spicy notes, and a hot finish. Not so complex, an enjoyable wine. Overpriced though. 1998 Robert Biale Sonoma Valley Zinfandel, $28. Sourced from a small DCV vineyard and a small RRV vineyard. Less rich nose, with raspberry/strawberry notes. Hot. Light in flavor, with simple red fruit, medium finish. Some of that dry creek dusty/brambly character evident underneath. Later, it seemed soda-pop-ish. Not impressed. 1998 Robert Biale Zinfandel, Napa Valley. $28. Sourced from three small vineyards, one in South Napa Valley, one in East Napa, and one near Calistoga. Nose of dark fruit: black cherry, blackberry. Earthy dusty notes underneath. Dark flavor on the tongue, with blackberry, black pepper, and a finish of toasty oak. Good balance and nice brooding complexity. 1998 Robert Biale Zinfandel, Valsecchi Vineyard, Sonoma. $36. Made from 75 yr old vineyard between Sonoma plaza and Carneros. Soft, subtle nose, with indistinct fruit, and hints of mint/eucalyptus. Big on the tongue; fruity, black pepper, oak. The finish falls apart, though, leaving you wanting more. 1998 Robert Biale Zinfandel, Old Crane Vineyard, Napa. $36. Sourced from an old vineyard near St. Helena. Bob said that these vines were among those planted by the guy (didn't get the name) that planted the first vinifera grapes in CA (as opposed to the mission grapes). Big ripe nose, with a mixture of strawberry, cherry, candy, spicy (Big juicy fruit, brambly berries layered on the tongue). Tart. Long finish. Lush and enjoyable. Almost late-harvesty. 1996 Robert Biale Zinfandel, Old Crane Vineyard, Napa. Although no longer available, Bob brought this 96 to compare. This wine had just a hint of bricking. Moderate nose, hints of blueberry, sherry notes. Silky smooth on the palate, rich zinberry up front leading to smooth oakey finish. Well balanced. Great wine, nearly as good (IMO) as the 98, but quite different in a smooth, mature way. 1997 Robert Biale Petit Sirah, Old Vines, Napa. $40. Some grapes from Old Crane vineyard, some from 110 yr old vines near Calistoga. The only non-zin of the night. Deep nearly opaque red/purple. (The zins were all identical deep garnet). Dark, indistinct fruit on the nose, but subdued. Big dark fruit up front, followed by soft tannins and a long finish. Pretty intense, but more elegant and soft than many young pitits. Bob said he tries to control tannins to make a more approachable wine, and he seems to have achieved that here.
These 98 wines seemed down to me, from the few 97s I tried. I guess that's par for the vintage. When asked about the 98 vintage, Bob said he felt it was a challenge for the growers, and the grapes could be uneven. For him, all he was concerned with was getting the grapes ripe, and all of his grapes came in where he wanted them, 25-27 brix. I'm definitely buying few 98 zins; I've got plenty of 97s still hanging around in the cellar. (I did finally buy a 98 Dashe, one of my other favorites from 97). Great to try all these wines side by side. My favorite was probably the 98 Old Crane followed by the Napa. I didn't purchase any, though, even with 10% off of the prices listed above.
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