| Twenty-two Pompous Twits and guests convened for Paul Marshall's
"Cabernet Franc" tasting to consume 20 wines (17 New World, three from
France).
The staff at Rue de Main in Hayward had set it all up and we had our
usual room (only this time we had ALL of it) with the big mural of a Paris
street. A few of us were a bit surprised that they served spicy sausage
bits at the outset, and it took a few minutes for the heat to die down
so that we could taste the first flight!
The prices of these wines ranged from low-end to medium (under $30).
The numbers at the end of each note represent number of votes for best
of flight and / my own ranking. (13/4 for the Hahn Estates, for example,
means that there were 13 votes for best of flight, but I ranked it fourth
of flight). As with most tastings, opinions and flavors were all over the
map. (Let folks post their OWN notes! These are mine, all MINE!!)
FIRST FLIGHT
1996 Hahn Estates, Santa Lucia Highlands
Wonderful toasty/berry nose, but lightweight and overly fruity on the
palate. 13/4
1998 Pepperwood Grove, California
Slight burnt rubber masking a solid berry smell (this improved in mere
minutes). A medium-bodied wine with dark fruit flavors and green pepper.
Very long finish. 0/2
1997 Ravenswood, Sonoma County
Nose slightly hot, peppery with plum and black currant (okay, okay...
"cassis"). Bold (Birkenstocky?) tannins, a bit too much oak that tended
to overpower the delicious fruit somewhat. 9/1
1997 Ironstone, California
Loads of alcohol and wood on the nose. Another overoaked, tongue-shrinkingly
tannic and bitter wine that I would guess was made from inferior grapes.
0/3
SECOND FLIGHT
1993 Richardson, Giles Vineyard, Sonoma
I'd never heard of this one. Big, rich nose full of black cherry and
plum. A bit sweet on the palate but otherwise nicely balanced. An inexpensive
red, it turns out, that has a good Quality Price Ratio (QPR). (I overheard
Linda Kemp say it had a tomato-paste-based flavor, which I didn't get,
but thought it interesting enough to write down...) 4/2
1997 Nelson Estate, Sonoma County
The complexity of this wine is apparent in the nose. Tight structure
wafts from the glass, with black pepper, plum, cassis, blackberry, and
something vaguely sour (but just a hint). This one is still a bit young
and need of more time, but this is a Real Wine that should be paired with
flavorful foods, but nothing too heavy. (Grilled beef or chicken would
do, but I was thinking of grilled chicken and grilled veggie "wraps" when
I drank this wine.) Very nice indeed. 14/1
1996 Villa Mt. Eden, California
Nose closed and hot at the same time, with a bit of cedar. Heat continues
on the tongue, cedar changes to heavy new oak on the palate, dark fruit
flavors overwhelmed by wood and alcohol. 3/3
1996 Fenestra, Santa Lucia Highlands
Another cedar/oak nose with vague, poorly-defined fruit odors. Flavors
are off...not much in the mid-palate, but there is more wood and there
is some plum-skin tartness out of balance with the fruit. 1/4
THIRD FLIGHT
1994 Rombauer, Napa Valley
Enamal paint/chemical nose. The attack is all heat, followed by briary,
oaky flavors, then finally some rather nice fruit of blackberry and sour
cherry. 6/2
1997 Casa Nueva, Napa Valley
Winalski would HATE this wine... menthol/eucalyptus and cedar on the
nose. Better on the palate, though the menthol seems to reappear in the
finish. Middle a bit hollow, a bit flabby for such a menthol-y nose, soft
fruit...not much there. Again, over-oaked. (Sigh) 5/3
1996 Reverie, Napa Valley
After all of the prior wines, expectations weren't high. But... a GORGEOUS
nose full of heady fruit (I'd have taken it for a good cabernet sauvignon)
and tightly-knit spices, just a hint of oak (just right), and I kept smelling
it for awhile before tasting. (This is one of those wines that if I'd been
given a pour in a tasting room, I'd go off in a corner to smell it for
awhile by myself...). Flavors match the nose on this one. Balanced on a
point of a needle, restrained and yet friendly, reserved and yet forward.
Complex, delicious, flavors of ripe boysenberry, juicy plum and cassis
with undercurrents of mild tobacco that help its underpinnings. DEFINITELY
my favorite of the evening. 10/1
1995 Thierry Germain-Marginale, Saumur Champigny (Loire)
Cigar box odors, bit of wet leather and sweaty dog. Changed over five
minutes in the glass and improved; revealed some milk chocolate once it
opened up, but fruit is compromised and there isn't much there. Not well
balanced, nor complex. 0/4
FOURTH FLIGHT
1997 Domain des Hardieres, Anjou Controlee
Unbuttered, slightly burned popcorn nose. Hard to get past that...
Much better on palate with nice mouthfeel and nice dark chocolate with
ripe berries, solid-but-not-unpleasant dose of oak. 9/2
1997 Palmer, Long Island, New York
(Disclaimer: I expected to hate this wine, given what I'd heard about
it.) Odd, minerally nose, but not particularly awful; interesting spicyness
with a watermelon and table grape smell. Tastes a lot like it smells; watermelon
is persistent and minerally, steely-shale mix is muted behind some rather
interesting, hard-to-describe fruit. I didn't hate it after all, but neither
would I buy it. 0/3
1995 Crescini, Santa Cruz Mountains
This was indescribably awful stuff. An industrial accident, or worse.
I heard myself saying things like "Love Creek" and "Chernobyl" with respect
to this "wine" (if that's what it was). Bleeeaugh. 1/4 (Our Japanese regular,
Haruyuki "Harry" Kojimoam liked this one because it was "so different,
unlike the others. Very unique.")
1992 de Rose, Cardillo Vineyard, Cienega Valley (near Hollister)
Latex paint, sour milk burned my smeller right off, but followed with
ripe fruit smells. Flavors develop in the mouth and reveal a nicely-balanced,
"drink me now" mature wine with moderate complexity and a short, but nice,
finish. 10/1
FIFTH (and final) FLIGHT
1993 Gundlach-Bundschu, Rhinefarm Vineyard, Sonoma Co.
Not much of anything on the nose... perhaps over the hill? Flavors
are weak, watery and soft. Low acid, low everything. 0/4
1997 Thomas Coyne, El Dorado Co.
(Disclaimer: Susan and I contributed this wine, but we didn't remember
much about it since we'd only tasted it at the winery once.) Big, BIG nose
full of fruity goodness that makes me salivate... Just as big on the palate
but nicely balanced with a solid backbone of tart, plum-skin acidity. Juicy,
lush fruitiness, just complex and structured enough to make it difficult
to pick out individual fruit flavors (sorry). 17/1
1991 Graeser, Napa Valley
Non-descript, closed nose, bit of eucalyptus over blackberry jam smell.
Fruit starting to drop out, but still there. Low acidity, high oak, not
much there. 0/3
1995 Chinon, "Joquet" (sp?)
Slight odor of burnt rubber with odor of berries that are beginning
to ferment. Soft, supple wine with low acidity but nice flavors of yellow
plum and red cherry. Nice, but unexciting. 5/2
SUMMARY
My number one pick of the night was the 1996 Reverie ($26.99)
followed by the 1997 Nelson Estate ($22.99), with the 1997 Thomas
Coyne (approx. $15) a surprising solid third place.
-- Tom R.
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