| With seventeen Pompous Twits attending, Jinny
Horner did a terrific job of gathering and presenting a total of fourteen
South African wines for our tasting pleasure. In attendance were:
Jinny
Horner, Alan Twhigg, Dave Hulet, Julie Mrasek, Susan Mountain, Tom Regner,
Mike Kemp, Linda Kemp (and mom Charlotte), Mary and John Warner, Paul Marshall,
Christine Corbett (welcome to Twits!), Tom Tilley, Harry Kojima, Carol
and Jerry Rose (with apologies if I've missed anyone!).
August 2000 Pics!
THE WHITES
For the warm-up, we started with the lone chenin blanc:
Cape Indaba 1999 Chenin Blanc, Western Cape
Pale straw color. Definite peach with melon and citrus on the nose.
Austere, mineral flavors and the melon comes through, but this is a verrrry
dry chenin blanc. Interesting, but low in fruit and high in wet stones
on the palate. Finish ends abruptly. A bit too lean for my tastes.
Next came two sauvignon blancs:
Simunye 1999 Sauvignon Blanc, Stellenbosch
Note: The word "simunye" (sih-MOON-yeh)
means "We are one" in the Zulu language.
Pale color. Lovely nose, varietally correct. Good, lean tropical fruit
flavors with pleasant minerality and a moderate finish. A very nice wine.
Cape Indaba 1999 Sauvignon Blanc, Western Cape
Similar to the Simunye in color with a bit more on both the nose and
palate. More mouth-filling flavors and intensity, and balanced more towards
the fruit flavors with the minerality more subdued. Longer, "evolving"
finish ending with a steely note. I liked the Simunye, but liked this one
even better.
Now two chardonnays:
Fleur du Cap 1998 Chardonnay, Stellenbosch
Light in color for a chardonnay, but a bit deeper than the previous
SVs. Weird, musty nose (Susan likened it to opening a man's locker, which
prompted everyone to ask "How would YOU know?") with off odors difficult
to identify. Oaky, spicy, not terribly interesting. I give it a "yuk" rating.
Dump bucket.
Cape Indaba 1998 Chardonnay, Western Cape
Lighter shade of pale (say, isn't that...?... nevermind). Yeasty nose
with tired tropical fruit odors sort of like canned fruit with overripe
banana. Flat, monolithic, single-note chardonnay. A bit of oak and not
much acidity (flabby). Medium but not quite unpleasant finish. Dump bucket.
THE REDS
A flight of four pinotages: (Pinotage is a hybrid of pinot noir and
cinsault.)
Note: All four were intense
ruby color, deep but not extremely dark.
Jacobsdal 1995 Pinotage, Stellenbosch
Intense black cherry on nose at first, changing to a charred meat odor.
Interesting and complex flavors, high acidity, difficult to map to common
fruits on palate. Mild bitterness on the medium finish. Despite flaws,
it is a nice quaff.
Swartland 1996 Pinotage, Swartland
My personal favorite of the flight, this one had a slight trace of
gunpowder on the nose but mostly a big whiff of sour cherry. Acidity hits
palate immediately... sour and tannic but with underlying solid fruit flavors
and a pleasant, lingering finish. This one developed nicely in the glass
over the fifteen minutes of its existence there and turned out to be my
favorite of the flight. The acid settled down in balance with the fruit
and spicy notes.
Swartland 1998 Pinotage, Swartland
Along with a completely different label from this younger pinotage,
this was a complete different wine. Several Twits at my end of the table
liked this one best, and while I enjoyed it nearly as much as the '96,
the acidity never quite resolved and the tannins were persistent and assertive
on the tongue. Perhaps needs more bottle time? A very nice wine, and my
second favorite of the pinotages, even though it bore only a distant family
resemblance to the '96.
Cape Indaba 1998 Pinotage, Coastal Region
Relatively closed nose compared to the first three. Improved only slightly
with air, but never quite developed in the glass. This one seemed more
like a pale cinsault on the nose, with more spice, earth and pepper than
the other three, but only in faint doses. Restrained on the palate, a bit
thin and reticent, a bit of green pepper with sour cherry. Not terribly
complex and a rather odd combination of flavors. Least favorite of flight.
Dump bucket.
Two merlots:
Swartland 1998 Merlot, Swartland
Deep ruby color. Nose a bit sharp, almost acrid. Wine attacks
the palate with acidity and assertive tannins -- out of balance but might
resolve with time. Fruit component definitely needs more time to
create counter the tartness. This is a bit of "vinfanticide" and
we have consumed it far too young, in my opinion, but is worth another
visit in another few years.
Veenwouden 1997 Merlot, Paarl
Darker ruby than the Swartland. Nose was closed for a time, then
opened up slowly to reveal light berry and plum aromas. This one,
like the Swartland, is still young and brash, but unlike the Swartland
is a bit better behaved on the palate, showing a touch more mellowness
and less aggressiveness. Acid here is still predominant but more
in balance with the fruit. Short finish. Tannins are mouth-filling, but
it doesn't come across as over-oaked; rather, these seem more like purely
grape tannins. More approachable than the Swartland now, but thinner
and with less overall presence which suggests that it will not age much
past a few years.
And finally, three miscellaneous blends (cabernet/merlot, in this case):
Glen Carlou 1997 "Grand Classique" Paarl
Ruby with just a hint of garnet color. Get the cabernet scent
on the nose, but different from California, French or Australian -- less
depth? More astringent fruit? Racy acidity brings the taste
buds back to life in this different, yet balanced blend. Mouth filling
berry flavors, quite fruity with high acidity and stealthy tannins that
seem to attack the back of the tongue first and then creep forward.
Not bad, though so very different from the usual cab/merlot blends that
comparison is difficult. I would favor some dark fruit flavors in
this wine, but as it is, it's quite refreshing for a red. Lighter
in style. It might gain weight over time -- a tough call.
Veenwouden 1997, Classic, Paarl
Now HERE was a real gem! Big, mouthfilling cab/merlot blend that starts
with dark fruit smells, slight dust and a hint of sweet tobacco. This one
was favored by all the Twits polled. Everything in balance, solid structure
with firm tannins, just the right amount of oak, and layers of grapey,
fruity flavors that end in a medium-length, spicy finish. Best of the night
(and somehow overlooked in my first posting!).
Kanonkop 1997 Kadette, Stellenbosch
Stinky and awful. Linda Kemp summarized it best: "Someone
poured chlorine in this to get rid of the rabbit piss... and it didn't
work." Thoroughly corked and reminiscent of a science project
gone horribly awry, this wine never had a chance. As still another
cabernet/merlot blend, it would have been interesting for comparison purposes
with the Glen Carlou, but ... no.
Notes by Tom, with help from Susan, Carol, Jerry and Linda,
whether they knew it or not...
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