Axles

I went with full width 3/4 ton axles from a Chevy. For the front I am using a Dana 44 with 5.13 Yukon gears, a Detroit locker, Warn premium locking hubs and a diff guard made from 3/4" solid steel bar. I use Warn alloy axle shafts and Longfield 300M u-joints. I changed the oil seals on the hubs and I also put in new spindle seals and bearing. Napa part number for the oil seals is 24898 and for the spindle rebuild kit it is Autozone part number SBK1. It consists of a bearing and 2 seals. Bearing is B-2110, small seal is PAI722108 and the large seal is PAI722109. I replaced a lower ball joint also, part number FA660G.

For the rear axle I chose a GM 14 bolt full floating axle for its stock strength, low cost, full float design, ease of setting up gears and swapping to disc brakes. Once I got the axle I began to work on it making a diff guard to match the front, cutting out my own disc brake brackets and then swapping the conversion onto the axle. This was a very simple and cheap swap. I used 76 K20 front rotors and 76 C10 calipers and hardware which came from my donor truck. The axle was stuffed with thick 5.13 gears and a Detroit locker.

Steering

For steering I swapped in a Saginaw power steering box that was cast with a "76" in it. To mount the box to the frame I made a plywood template and then cut it out of 3/8" steel. I added gussets and tack welded spacers onto it to position the box in the right place. After this was done I welded it to the frame. I made a steering box support bar that clamps around the output shaft and bolts to the frame on the other side. It is basically a dog bone design using 1" solid steel round bar and 1.5" steel strap formed to make a clamp. Lastly, to protect the aluminum steering box cap I fabricated a steering box skid plate that bolts to the front bumper and uses 1 of the bolts that holds the steering box to the frame.

I am using double steering arms which puts the tie rod behind the axle. I made my own drag link and tie rod using 1.25" x .219" wall DOM tube. I used Chevy drag link ends ES2026R and ES2027L on both the tie rod and drag link. ES2026R is the steering arm end and ES2027L is the pitman arm end. For the 7/8 -18 jam nuts I ordered them at a Chevy parts counter. LH nut is 14026805 and RH nut is 14026806, they were $5.** each. I had to ream out my pitman arm for the bigger TRE to fit using a 1.5 inch/ft reamer.

For a steering column I simply used 3/4" solid steel round bar supported by a pillow block flange bearing through the firewall/floor and a rod end attached to the cage dash bar. I use a Grant wheel I picked up at a garage sale and an aluminum quick release hub from a race car parts supplier. I use u-joints from a Jeep XJ steering shaft to connect the steering box to the steering shaft at the firewall.

Hydro Assist

I decided to use hydro assist steering to control the 38's with a locked axle so I tapped the box myself using a mill. I also rebuilt the box at this time using new seals. I decided to make a bolt on mount for the tie rod so I could still align the steering easily. I designed the bracket using Solidworks then cut it out on the CNC. Tabs were welded on to mount the ram then it was placed on the tie rod. I had very few options when it came to mounting the ram due to clearances. I could either mount the ram low to the knuckle and risk rock damage or mount it up high but try to avoid hitting the diff and springs or the engine and frame on stuff. I finally came up mounting it over the diff with a plate that doubles as the u-bolt spring plate. I have read that this is not advised because of problems that could develop but I also talked with a few others that use their u-bolts to mount the ram with no problems for over a year. The ram is a Chief 2"x6"x1.125" and I use 3/8" hydraulic hose. 6" of stroke is usually required for mounting it above the axle with high steer. Lock to lock is a perfect 6" on my axle configuration. Bump stops are used to allow the ram to not contact the engine or chassis under compression.