A standalone cruise management system... not a bad way to spend $90. Purchased the Audiovox CCS-100 from Amazon.com with free shipping. Many good reviews about this unit at amazon.com.

This is the Audiovox CCS-100 out of the box. You can see the actuator, the sorta kinda helpful manuals, and bag of bolts/brackets/tricks that you mostly won't NEED for installing this in your SQ.

A close up of the actuator.

This is where we will be installing/hiding the actuator, above the fuse box. The screw to mount the actuator bracket to is circled.

Another view of the mounting location, the screw that will hold the bracket is circled.

Remove the fuse box by taking out these four screws.

And just push it out the way, towards the foot rest.

Here we can see the planned mounting screw for the actuator bracket.

Lets start with wiring, these are the two connectors we want to tap into.

The Cruise/Wiper connector. You do not need to cut any of these wires because you can easily remove them from the connector.

Flat head screwdriver removes the yellow plastic.

A thin flat head scre driver to pry up on the locks, I used scissors.

Wire connections on the Cruise/Wiper Connector. NOTE: YOU MUST DEPIN OR CUT THE THREE WIRES MARKED. I used both the OEM cruise switches and audiovox controls, so the brown, green and yellow wires were spliced to accomodate this.

Here is the brake light switch.

The connections you will make to the brake light switch connector. (The two yellow wires are for the factory cruise control.)

Remove your gauge cluster to get access to this connector, it is the blue one of the two connectors that go to your gauges. You will be tapping into the cream colored wire. Also kinda pictured is the grounding location I used, a 10mm bolt on the steering colum support.

You are done with wiring!! VSS wire is not needed for 5spd cars, but for sloshomatic guys the vss sensor is in the speedometer.

Drop your glove box, before or after removing it's contents(I didn't and spilled everything) to gain access to the vacuum connection. To drop your glove box, open it and push in the two sides near the top and you will have access now. Don't worry, attaching the vac lines WILL be a biatch. SAVE that extension... you can use it to replace the T connection at the stock actuator so the vac line goes directly to the vac pump.

A view of the stock cruise control cable.

Now you can remove the stock cruise cable.

Insert the new cable through the stock bracket, and reattach to the pedal. Adjust for freeplay, I didn't and had a nice idle of 1800rpm.

Before you shove the actuator to it's final resting place you should check your connections by looking at the LED next to the DIP switch. The LED should light when you press the brake, and when you press the set/coast button or rotate the stock switch to resume/accel.

Set the dip switch settings to 8,000 PPM, HIGH SENSITIVITY for fast reaction, TACH ONLY. I had it set to what the manual called for and it would not hold/accel above 60 some MPH. At 8,000PPM it would hold at 70... I was accelerating to 80 to do a hold test but I passed a cop and chose to slow down instead.

This guide is 90% complete I haven't finished testing yet, so I have not mounted the actuator, but I believe the bag of tricks included a bolt that will work in place of that screw. Will get pics.

Also, I will get pics of the way the vac lines/check valves/vac pump switch-sensor should be connected.

Until then, keep it in cruise mode... I've seen the way you drive, you've got a heavy foot!!