So you want to put MR2 inserts in your Starion eh?? Here's how!!

You will need:
• Four rear 90-95 MR2 strut inserts. (Part numbers: KYB GR-2-365100. KYB AGX-765016. TOKICO ILLUMINA-BZ3126)

• I used two sets of front non-shp housings and one rear set of non-shp housings. Extra front set is used because you will cut the threaded portion off the front and weld it to the rear. (If you have rear shp housings, you will not require the second set of fronts)

• Gland nuts from KYB for the Starion. Email customer service (address is on their site)

• If you have MK1 camber plates, you will need to contact them to get new top nuts because the MR2 shaft is larger.

• 12" of DOM (Drawn over mandrel) Tubing for the spring perch and exrta strength.

• Angle grinder, metal chop saw, vice, good welder and quite some time.

The NON shp struts all lined up next to a 90-95 MR2 Rear Insert(KYB GR-2/Excel G)

Measurement of KYB insert, including bottom retaining protrusion, about 14 1/4"

Measurement of stock strut height, about 15 7/16”.  So as you can see the MR2 inserts are about 2 3/16” shorter.  This is the amount you will need to cut down if you are lowering your car, as I am.

KYB Starion Gland nut on top.  KYB MR2 gland nut on bottom.

KYB Starion nut on left, KYB MR2 nut on right

Time to mod!!

Drain your rear struts of oil by drilling a small hole.  The oil did not smell bad at all in my struts, you may have different results

There is a lot of oil in there, grip the shaft and pump repeatedly(LOL) and until all the fluid is out (LOL)

To empty and take apart the front strut place the gland nut in a vice, and use a cheater bar aka jack handle on the spindle, BE CAREFUL to not mar the polished sections of the spindle!!  And turn.  It doesn’t take a crazy amount of force to release it.

Grip the shaft in the vice this time and pump away.

The MR2 insert in the Starion housings

The difference in height is about 2 3/16”.

Time to cut, secure the strut in a vice, and use an angle grinder to cut. I cut just about the weld.  Cut slowly, the material is very very thick and strong.  I used a DeWalt cutting disc and it was probably the best I’ve ever used, it has lasted much longer than any harbor freight disc.  Less than $2 for one at Lowe’s/Home Depot much cheaper in the long run than HF.

Cut deep enough all the way around and you will be able to slide off the stock spring perch.

Remove the stock spring perch and continue cutting all the way through the strut housing. When doing the rears, the guts have not been removed yet so just cut 1/4” deep so you will not cut into the guts of the strut. Be careful, there is most likely still a bit of oil left in there.

Height of MR2 insert in cut housing.

Cut your threaded portion of the front strut down to 5”. A metal chop saw is best suited for this. You can also use a tubing/pipe cutter.

Mock up the threaded top portion with the gland nut firmly against the strut insert. You will want the threaded top portion at least 1 thread low on the gland nuts to allow for tightening and securing the strut in the housing.

After aligning the pieces, mark the location of the bottom of the threaded top portion onto the strut housing. This is where you will cut.

Or if you’re into measurements and want it perfect, when measured from the mounting flange…

… you will need to cut at 6 13/16” from the bottom of the flange.

Strut inside the housings with cut top and bottom placed together.

Weld the strut pieces together, and cut a piece of DOM tubing (I will have to recheck the size of the DOM tubing, and include it) to 2” height.

Comparison of thicknesses: strut housing on the left, DOM tubing on the right.

Weld DOM tubing on and it will serve as your sleeve perch.

Throw some paint on to protect, and install the sleeves overs and top hats (MK1 sleeve overs in this case) and they are ready to go!!

Installed and purdy.

Slam her to the ground!!

Yeah… I can go lower… but can’t drive anywhere… haha… I tried.

No fat chicks, car will scrape.