LAST EDITED ON 28-Jun-05 AT 11:57 PM (GMT 2)
 
Sorry, it's another long one.
I hope you find it worth reading for another point of view.

Perhaps you’re unhappy with the images that come straight out of your D70.
Whether this is underexposure or some other factor doesn’t change that fact.
On the other hand, if you come to understand why you’re getting certain results; you may be able to change how you use your D70 and improve your images.

In my opinion, underexposure if often blamed when contrast is the real issue.
See D70 Metering – Does Not Underexpose regarding whether the D70 underexposes.
A properly exposed, low contrast scene simply won’t have deep shadows and/or brilliant highlights.
And although sometimes we could wish for more dynamic range, generally the D70 has more than enough range for the scene and a low contrast image is the result.

Remember, exposure simply aligns the dynamic range of the scene with the sensor by using a single exposure value.
Exposure doesn’t change the dynamic range of your scene or the sensor.

If your low contrast image lacks highlights then you might characterize this as underexposed.
If your low contrast image lacks shadows then you might characterize this as not sharp.
In both cases simple post processing adjustments often make a striking difference.

One could wish for the availability of a more aggressive auto contrast capability in the firmware.
However, lacking this; what can the photographer do?

Try Matrix metering.
Although it’s a “black box” that some avoid because it’s “magic”; Matrix metering is more sophisticated than Spot or Center Weighted metering.
You can think of it as an evolution of Center weighted into content weighted.

Expose to the right.
Use positive exposure compensation, if necessary, to get your histogram to the right (without clipping).
Generally, unless lighting is changing quickly, you should not have to change this frequently on a shoot.
Remember, the signal to noise ratio on the right hand side of the histogram is much better than on the left hand side.
So even if you wind up darkening a little later, your image quality will generally be better.

Use a curve.
I’m not a fan of this technique but list it for completeness.
If I did use a custom tone curve I would definitely shoot Raw+Jpeg so I could apply a different curve than the in camera curve under certain circumstances.
A custom tone curve will allow you to redistribute the contrast of the image, for example expanding the dynamic range of a low contrast image.
However, if the image going in is not a low contrast image then the custom tone curve may well destroy contrast you want to keep.

So, pay attention to your metering, and expose to the right.
Also, having exposed to the right; don’t be shy about raising the shadow level to increase contrast and apparent sharpness.
(I can’t tell you how many times I’ve seen claims that images that were improved by sharpening when I have gotten the same or better results simply by raising the shadow level.)

Respectfully,
Bill

Visit me, info and galleries at: Nikon Photos and Information

Very interesting posts, Bill. Thanks for taking the time and making the effort to do the tests and share the results.

Kerry

Canuck