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What you need to know! Part I: Do I need a dog, and what kind of owner am I? Part II: What are "Papers" and what does the term "Registered" mean? Why do I want my new dog to be "Registered"? Part III: A discussion about how to read a pedigree, and what are all those crazy abbreviations around the dog's names? NOTE: This is a HUGE page, and you will have to scroll down to find all the info, but it is all stuff you need to know. This page was created from questions that I have fielded from people just like you who vary in knowlege from total "newbees" to somewhat experienced dog owners. I have spent years researching dog pedigrees and paperwork, and as a breeder am required by AKC to be familiar with the process of kennel recordkeeping. Therefore, I feel it my obligation to share this information and try to give the general public some basic knowlege as to what is (or rather SHOULD) be involved when buying a "registered" dog. Many, many people have been cheated by their own lack of knowlege and wound up with something that they didn't mean to buy. Compare it to the process of buying a new car. Say you won the lottery and want to run out and buy a new Corvette. You have plenty of money, so that's not the issue. You have certain ideas about what this car will be like, you want all the bells and whistles. Where do you go from here? Would you go to the closest corner "Wheels and Deals" place and expect the same kind of service and quality that you get from a Chevrolet dealership? Would you get the same warranties and customer support? Would they know the product and be able to back it up and be proud of the car's history and repair records? Certainly if money were your only concern, and you couldn't afford better, you might be forced to go to "Wheels and Deals" but when you drove off the lot, I bet you'd cross your fingers that the car lasted at least until you could manage to pay it off. However, if you bought from the dealership, you would expect the best because you bought from the best. You have written warranties, and if something happens you can bet they'll take care of the situation. So anyway, without further ado, here's my FAQ page! |
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Okay, so you've decided to get a dog. You are here because you fall into one of the following categories: 1. THE FORMER
OWNER. 2. THE INFORMED
SHOPPER. 3. THE IMPULSE
BUYER. Which type are
you??? Steps to becoming a #2
1.
Use the
internet, it's a valuable
resource. Look on our home page for links, or do general searches
for "Siberian Husky FAQ". This will give you not just breeders with
cute puppy photos, but valuable information on what to expect from a
Siberian Husky puppy.
2. DO NOT EVER EVEN THINK OF BUYING A PUPPY AT A PET STORE!!! I have links on my home page warning against the purchase of pet shop puppies, but I will break it down for you here. First off, these puppies come from risky sources. Oftentimes they are from out of state puppy farms or "mills" where the dogs are mass produced in filthy and less than ideal circumstances. If the puppy didn't come from a puppy mill, it came from a local backyard breeder who sold it to the pet store to make a couple bucks. Sometimes they advertise the puppies themselves in a local paper, and whatever doesn't sell they turn over to the pet store for a low price. (The one here in our town pays $125.00 for an AKC registered puppy.) Then, the pet store turns around and sells it to the public for an astronomical price. (Often well over $700.00) Why would you want to pay that much for a puppy that you could have bought out of the newspaper yourself the week before for half the cost? Well, the main reason is that people are under the mistaken impression that pet store animals are better than one bought from a private party. This is not true. Oftentimes you don't get any type of warranty, and if you do it's only good for a certain time period, and only if you see "their" vet. Also, you can't see the puppy's parents or other family members, and you can't speak to the actual breeder of the puppy, either. You don't know if the puppy has been socialized from an early age, if it received adequate health care, or if it's parents have been screened for any health defects. If you don't believe me, call a pet store undercover and ask them how much they pay for dogs, and what their requirements for a breeder are. If they say they have suppliers, ask where they are. You may be surprised to find out how much they mark up the sales of these poor puppies. 3. Have a sincere heart to heart with yourself and find out if you really need a dog. Do you have the time for a pet? If you don't have at least an hour a day to spend on a puppy, then the answer is no. If you work long hours, and barely have time to do laundry, the answer is no. If you figure that the kids will deal with the dog, or your spouse or whatever, the answer is NO. You have to make a very real commitment to your new puppy if you want to have a lifelong companion. Don't waste your money on a pet that you'll give away or take to the pound in a few months. Evaluate your lifestyle, and think of all the possibilities. How secure is your financial well-being? Seriously, are you in a place where you anticipate staying for a long period of time, or are you a person who moves from place to place every year? What's going to happen if you have to move into an apartment? Most won't allow a medium to large sized dog...so what happens then? Oh, and don't think that you can just leave it with a friend or family member, either...remember, Siberians are escape artists, and your friend isn't going to be as careful as you are about securing the gates and making sure it doesn't get out. 4. Tell your girlfriend/boyfriend or spouse that you would like to get a puppy at least six months in the future. Discuss the pros and cons of a puppy, and let it be known that this is a purchase you will make TOGETHER. It can be lots of fun going to different breeders, seeing puppies, and surfing the web for info. Don't go on impulse and grab the first one you see. Every litter will be cute and cuddly...but not every breeder will be responsible and reliable. Learn what to ask the breeders...and look for the warning signs to avoid. You could save yourself hundreds of dollars and a broken heart. 5. If you are considering showing your puppy, let the breeder know. (They may give you a discount or offer possibilities that will give you a jump start into the show ring.) On the other hand, if you plan to just have a pet, then you need to let the breeder know this also. The breeder should ask you if you intend to breed the dog. You should be given Limited Registration for a "pet" puppy. If the breeder does not utilize limited registration, then go somewhere else. That is one of the worst signs you can look for. Ask up front, "Will this puppy have limited registration?" If they say, "No, we don't do that" then they don't care about what happens to their dogs. Limited registration means that although the dog itself is registered, it cannot produce registered offspring. (Meaning that your dog can't have registered puppies.) What this boils down to is that you are being asked to have your dog "fixed" and that the breeder does not intend for you to ever breed this animal. It is the only method by which a breeder can effectively restrict you from breeding your dog. 6. If you own another dog, what
is it's life like? How often does it get
taken to the vet for routine maintenance? How much time do you spend
with it? Is it spayed or neutered? (Unless it's a show dog, or
valuable breeding animal, there is no reason why it shouldn't be.)
Has it been exposed to other animals? Did it attend any type of
training course? Where does it sleep, and where will the new dog
sleep? How will you handle jealousy between the two dogs? What
will you do if the two dogs don't get along? What is it's
personality like, and is it going to get along with another dog? Do
you have facilities to keep the puppy separated from the older dog until
it's old enough to be safely left alone with the bigger
dog?
More valuable
information for puppy buyers: |
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Step One: Well, to answer that, let's first understand that in the United States, and for this breed in particular, we register our puppies with the American Kennel Club (AKC) . The AKC registers many different breeds, and the process is the same for all. When a breeder has bred two dogs and a litter is born, a form is filled out by him or her and submitted to the AKC. This form is called a "Litter Registration Application". This form tells the AKC when the litter was bred as well as the birth date, the parent's names and registration numbers and the owners of both the sire and dam both must sign. (Keep in mind that not all litters are born in situations where the breeder owns BOTH sire and dam....sometimes there are several parties involved in the process of registering a litter). Once the litter application is processed by the AKC, then forms are mailed back to the breeder, a separate one for each puppy. This is called an "AKC DOG REGISTRATION APPLICATION". This is the form that should be given to you on the date you aquire your puppy, unless specific arrangements are made otherwise. Here's an example of this form, front and back. It's small, so you can't read everything....but if you don't get something resembling this form, you're not getting the correct "papers" for your puppy. Okay, so what's the difference between
the two certificates? |
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All right then, so I've got a registration certificate...what's all this other stuff?? A breeder should usually give you several things along with your puppy's registration when you buy a new puppy. Among those that we give in our "puppy kit" are a health record and a pedigree for the new puppy. I do not consider the pedigree to be "papers" but some people do. As far as I am concerned, the actual registration certificate is the "papers" much like the pink slip is the "title" for a vehicle. You could have the car's actual registration without having the title, much as you could have a dog's pedigree without having the registration certificate. For instance, if someone were to sell you an adult dog, or any dog that had already been registered, (see above) you would HAVE to receive a signed registration to take official ownership of the dog. If someone says they're giving you the dog's "papers" and you don't receive either a litter registration form or the actual certificate, (both pictured above) then whatever they've given you is useless so far as the AKC is concerned. Now, what then is the pedigree? A pedigree is a "family tree" for your dog. It includes the names of family members going back however many generations, and is very important to anyone who breeds dogs. It is this that is the most important part of determining whether or not your dog came from "backyard" breedings or was the product of skilled breeding. Pedigrees can look quite different and be difficult to read, so I'll try to explain how to read one. The basic structure of a pedigree is always the same. Here's an example:
So, where do I start,
and what do all these weird names mean? (BASED ON APPEARANCE -OR CONFORMATION- ONLY, NOT ON ATHLETIC ABILITY OR ABILITY TO PERFORM ANY SORT OF CHALLENGING FEATS) Am Ch- American Champion Can Ch- Canadian Champion Int'l Ch- International Champion Mex Ch- Mexican Champion BIS- Best in Show BISS- Best in Specialty Show (a specialty show is one for that particular breed only. The opposite would be an all breed show) WORKING TITLES (BASED UPON SOMETHING THE DOG HAS DONE....THESE ARE NOT EASY BY ANY MEANS AND INVOLVE A GREAT COMMITMENT ON THE PART OF THE DOG AS WELL AS THE OWNER. ) CD- Companion Dog, an obedience title which usually appears after the dog's name. CDX- Companion Dog Excellent, the next level after achieving the CD title. SD- Sled dog (meaning the dog has to log a certain number of miles pulling a sled) SDX- Next level of SD, harder to get, more hours to log and more demanding. CGC- Canine Good Citizen, dogs must do a series of basic obedience tasks to show that they are at all times under control and well trained. All dogs should ideally be able to pass this test! WPD- Working Pack Dog- basically a 'hiking' degree. Dog has to carry a pack on it's back for a total of 40 miles! In addition to the
titles, dogs also have abbreviations listed after their names. These
are usually telling you that this dog has had certain certifications done
for either hips, eyes or both. This is a very GOOD thing!
Ideally, the goal (even though it is not at all common) is to have a
pedigree where EVERY dog says "OFA -then a number and a letter" after it's
name as well as "CERF number-number-number". These initials stand
for Orthopedic Foundation For Animals and Canine Eye Registry
Foundation. As mentioned elsewhere, these are the primary registries
used for testing dogs for gentetic hip dysplasia and eye
abnormalities. Okay, so let's go back to reading pedigrees. As I said, the sire's (dad's) side is always at the top, and the dam (mom's) is at the bottom. This holds true for the whole pedigree. If you lay a ruler next to the names to find ones that line up, there should always be an even number of names, and from top to bottom they would be male, female, male, female and so on. For instance, in Rusty's pedigree above, in the first generation are two names, Elvis (his dad) and Mightywager (his mom). The next generation would be those dog's parents (Rusty's grandparents) and starting at the top is AmCanCh (American Canadian Champion) Kristari's Pacific Skyline and below him, Kristari's Nugget. Then we skip down to Rusty's Mom's side, (Echo Call Mightywager O'Lakmat) and her parents are Rashaun's Beat D' Odds O'Lakmat (Sire) and Echo Call's Sweet Peaches (Dam). So long as you remember that the males are always above the females, you should have no trouble...and just remember that it's the same as a human family tree in structure. More to come
as questions arise!!!! |