Help for the prospective dog owner:
What you need to know!

  Contents:
Part I: Do I need a dog, and what kind of owner am I?
Part II: What are "Papers" and what does the term "Registered" mean?  Why do I want my new dog to be "Registered"?
Part III: A discussion about how to read a pedigree, and what are all those crazy abbreviations around the dog's names?

NOTE: This is a HUGE page, and you will have to scroll down to find all the info, but it is all stuff you need to know.  This page was created from questions that I have fielded from people just like you who vary in knowlege from total "newbees" to somewhat experienced dog owners.  I have spent years researching dog pedigrees and paperwork, and as a breeder am required by AKC to be familiar with the process of kennel recordkeeping.  Therefore, I feel it my obligation to share this information and try to give the general public some basic knowlege as to what is (or rather SHOULD) be involved when buying a "registered" dog.  Many, many people have been cheated by their own lack of knowlege and wound up with something that they didn't mean to buy.  Compare it to the process of buying a new car.  Say you won the lottery and want to run out and buy a new Corvette.  You have plenty of money, so that's not the issue.  You have certain ideas about what this car will be like, you want all the bells and whistles.  Where do you go from here?  Would you go to the closest corner "Wheels and Deals" place and expect the same kind of service and quality that you get from a Chevrolet dealership?  Would you get the same warranties and customer support?  Would they know the product and be able to back it up and be proud of the car's history and repair records?  Certainly if money were your only concern, and you couldn't afford better, you might be forced to go to "Wheels and Deals" but when you drove off the lot, I bet you'd cross your fingers that the car lasted at least until you could manage to pay it off.  However, if you bought from the dealership, you would expect the best because you bought from the best.  You have written warranties, and if something happens you can bet they'll take care of the situation.  So anyway, without further ado, here's my FAQ page!


 
 Part I: What kind of owner are you?
Okay, so you've decided to get a dog.  You are here because you fall into one of the following categories:

1. THE FORMER OWNER.
                           This person has owned a Siberian before and knows what they are getting into.  Perhaps their dog has passed away from old age, and they are now feeling that "empty nest" syndrome that comes along when your dear friend has said good bye.  There is no replacement for that first and very special one...but a new one can enrich your life in a different, yet familiar way.   Some other members of this category are current owners, who already have one (or two?) Siberians and are looking for another to add to the family.

2.  THE INFORMED SHOPPER.
 This person has done the research.  They have talked to friends or family members who have a Siberian, they have surfed the web for information, and they have talked to different breeders and are either "seriously considering" or the "pretty much decided and are wanting to find THE one."  These people range in their preparedness, some have been at this stage for months to years, have set up a Veterinarian and found a nearby trainer.  Others have just gathered their information, read lots and feel ready for the plunge.  Either way, these folks know both the downfalls and the positives that they are undertaking, and are ready.

3.  THE IMPULSE BUYER.
Unfortunately many people fall into this slot, and our goal here is to elevate to a #2 instead.  These people know nothing about the breed.  They saw one once, maybe on television, maybe in a movie, and thought it was cool looking.  Or, even worse, they saw something with similar markings (it could have been a malamute or any number of combinations thereof) and decided that if they ever got the chance, they were going to get one of those dogs.  They don't necessarily know anything about any breed of dog, maybe they had a dog as a kid, or maybe they didn't even have that.  Now this person has seen an ad somewhere, and since they've got the money to blow, they want a puppy.   One common scenario is that the boyfriend always said he liked those kind of dogs, so the girlfriend runs out and wants to buy one for his birthday, anniversary, whatever.  Dogs are just about the worst surprise gift you can give someone, but every year thousands are given away and six months later they are found either wandering or abandoned to the pound.  That's not what we want.    Also in this category are "innocent" parents whom are looking to buy a dog for thier kids.  The child has requested this particular type of dog, and so the parent just figures they should get one.  They don't know anything about them, but "hey, aren't they supposed to be good with kids?  Is there more I need to know?"  We run into this situation more than any other, and it's very important that the parent know exactly what they are getting themselves into!

Which type are you???
So, are you a number one? 
Great!  Pleased to meet you.  Let's talk about your goals for the new puppy, and what you are looking for in specifics.  Former owners have learned the ropes, and may want a puppy that is less outgoing than the previous dog.  Or, they may want one that is more active, if their lifestyle calls for that.  A good breeder can help determine which puppy's personality will best fit your situation.  Maybe you're a #2.   Still great.  We need to correspond over the next few weeks or months even to determine which litter appeals to you.  Since you've looked at so many photos and materials, you probably know if your new puppy will be a male or female, and you probably have a color preference in mind.  Although a #2 has done lots of research, we will still want to discuss your yard and living arrangements, whether or not you have other animals, and what your expectations are for your new puppy.  You may want to ask for references from us so that you can talk to someone who has similar experience to you, and can give you some inside hints on making your new puppy part of the family.  Now, what if you're a #3?  Well, there is still hope for you yet.  You're on the right track by being here and reading this information, but you've got a way to go yet.  You need to first realize that not every breed is NOT the same.  It is true that other than skin color, a white person is the same internally as a person of another race, and that if a "person of color" (as I prefer to be called) is raised amongst another culture, they will adopt the mannerisms and customs as they were raised.  This is not true with animals!  That is why there is such a thing as "breeds".  I  cannot say strongly enough that a German Shepherd and a Siberian Husky are NOTHING alike.  In fact, NO breeds are alike.  If you had a golden retriever when you were growing up, but always liked the way Siberians looked, DO NOT expect to buy a Siberian and have a Golden Retriever mind and the body of the Siberian.  It just doesn't work that way.  We have three Rottweilers in addition to our Siberian clan.  I have actually had people come here and say, "Wow, those are awesome Rottweilers...maybe I should get one of those instead."  Do you know how crazy that is?  Perhaps not, so I will tell you.  Comparing a Rottweiler to a Siberian Husky is not even possible.  One is bred to be the ultimate family protector and guardian, would lay down their life to defend you or your home, and if required could easily take down even the largest of intruders.  The Siberian is the ultimate jogging buddy.  They are a hearty breed that enjoys being active and will accompany to to the top of the highest mountain.  But you better bring a leash, or you may find yourself all alone up there.  Siberians won't protect you or your family from much of anything. (Okay, so there are exceptions...and there are Rottweilers who are lousy guard dogs...but I am just covering the norm)  They are very intelligent, as are the Rottweilers, but they apply that intelligence in a different way.  Think of a rocket scientist versus a neurosurgeon.  Sometimes people (and dogs) are given a gift...but they can't excel at everything.  Rotties are very smart, obedient and loyal.  Siberians are escape artists, can devote their lifetime to finding ways to escape you, and believe it or not, will adopt the next friendly stranger and never give you a second thought.  They are NOT particularly loyal.  They won't eat your kids, and they are happy to be around you, but they have a wandering instinct that won't quit.  You have to be prepared for this if you're going to be a new owner.

Steps to becoming a #2 

1. Use the internet, it's a valuable resource.  Look on our home page for links, or do general searches for "Siberian Husky FAQ".  This will give you not just breeders with cute puppy photos, but valuable information on what to expect from a Siberian Husky puppy.

2. DO NOT EVER EVEN THINK OF BUYING A PUPPY AT A PET STORE!!! I have links on my home page warning against the purchase of pet shop puppies, but I will break it down for you here.  First off, these puppies come from risky sources.  Oftentimes they are from out of state puppy farms or "mills" where the dogs are mass produced in filthy and less than ideal circumstances.  If the puppy didn't come from a puppy mill, it came from a local backyard breeder who sold it to the pet store to make a couple bucks.  Sometimes they advertise the puppies themselves in a local paper, and whatever doesn't sell they turn over to the pet store for a low price.  (The one here in our town pays $125.00 for an AKC registered puppy.)  Then, the pet store turns around and sells it to the public for an astronomical price.  (Often well over $700.00)  Why would you want to pay that much for a puppy that you could have bought out of the newspaper yourself the week before for half the cost?  Well, the main reason is that people are under the mistaken impression that pet store animals are better than one bought from a private party.  This is not true.  Oftentimes you don't get any type of warranty, and if you do it's only good for a certain time period, and only if you see "their" vet.  Also, you can't see the puppy's parents or other family members, and you can't speak to the actual breeder of the puppy, either.  You don't know if the puppy has been socialized from an early age, if it received adequate health care, or if it's parents have been screened for any health defects.  If you don't believe me, call a pet store undercover and ask them how much they pay for dogs, and what their requirements for a breeder are.  If they say they have suppliers, ask where they are.  You may be surprised to find out how much they mark up the sales of these poor puppies.

3. Have a sincere heart to heart with yourself and find out if you really need a dog. Do you have the time for a pet?  If you don't have at least an hour a day to spend on a puppy, then the answer is no.  If you work long hours, and barely have time to do laundry, the answer is no.  If you figure that the kids will deal with the dog, or your spouse or whatever, the answer is NO.  You have to make a very real commitment to your new puppy if you want to have a lifelong companion.  Don't waste your money on a pet that you'll give away or take to the pound in a few months.  Evaluate your lifestyle, and think of all the possibilities.  How secure is your financial well-being?  Seriously, are you in a place where you anticipate staying for a long period of time, or are you a person who moves from place to place every year?  What's going to happen if you have to move into an apartment?  Most won't allow a medium to large sized dog...so what happens then?  Oh, and don't think that you can just leave it with a friend or family member, either...remember, Siberians are escape artists, and your friend isn't going to be as careful as you are about securing the gates and making sure it doesn't get out.

4. Tell your girlfriend/boyfriend or spouse that you would like to get a puppy at least six months in the future.  Discuss the pros and cons of a puppy, and let it be known that this is a purchase you will make TOGETHER.  It can be lots of fun going to different breeders, seeing puppies, and surfing the web for info.  Don't go on impulse and grab the first one you see.  Every litter will be cute and cuddly...but not every breeder will be responsible and reliable.  Learn what to ask the breeders...and look for the warning signs to avoid.  You could save yourself hundreds of dollars and a broken heart.

5. If you are considering showing your puppy, let the breeder know. (They may give you a discount or offer possibilities that will give you a jump start into the show ring.)  On the other hand, if you plan to just have a pet, then you need to let the breeder know this also.  The breeder should ask you if you intend to breed the dog.  You should be given Limited Registration for a "pet" puppy.  If the breeder does not utilize limited registration, then go somewhere else.  That is one of the worst signs you can look for.  Ask up front, "Will this puppy have limited registration?"  If they say, "No, we don't do that" then they don't care about what happens to their dogs.  Limited registration means that although the dog itself is registered, it cannot produce registered offspring.  (Meaning that your dog can't have registered puppies.)  What this boils down to is that you are being asked to have your dog "fixed" and that the breeder does not intend for you to ever breed this animal.  It is the only method by which a breeder can effectively restrict you from breeding your dog.

6. If you own another dog, what is it's life like? How often does it get taken to the vet for routine maintenance?  How much time do you spend with it?  Is it spayed or neutered?  (Unless it's a show dog, or valuable breeding animal, there is no reason why it shouldn't be.)  Has it been exposed to other animals?  Did it attend any type of training course?  Where does it sleep, and where will the new dog sleep?  How will you handle jealousy between the two dogs?  What will you do if the two dogs don't get along?  What is it's personality like, and is it going to get along with another dog?  Do you have facilities to keep the puppy separated from the older dog until it's old enough to be safely left alone with the bigger dog? 

More valuable information for puppy buyers:
Okay, so you've done your homework and you're ready to buy a puppy.  Let's start with what you need to know about the implications of buying a "registered" purebred dog.  Here I will outline the most frequently misunderstood aspect of purchasing a dog.... (Please note that there are other registries besides the AKC, however as it is the best known and most frequently used registry in the US for Siberian Huskies, that's what I'm going to cover.)

Part II: "WHAT ARE PAPERS?" 
Step One: Well, to answer that, let's first understand that in the United States, and for this breed in particular, we register our puppies with the American Kennel Club (AKC) .  The AKC registers many different breeds, and the process is the same for all.  When a breeder has bred two dogs and a litter is born, a form is filled out by him or her and submitted to the AKC.  This form is called a "Litter Registration Application".   This form tells the AKC when the litter was bred as well as the birth date, the parent's names and registration numbers and the owners of both the sire and dam both must sign.  (Keep in mind that not all litters are born in situations where the breeder owns BOTH sire and dam....sometimes there are several parties involved in the process of registering a litter).  Once the litter application is processed by the AKC, then forms are mailed back to the breeder, a separate one for each puppy.  This is called an "AKC DOG REGISTRATION APPLICATION".  This is the form that should be given to you on the date you aquire your puppy, unless specific arrangements are made otherwise.  Here's an example of this form, front and back.  It's small, so you can't read everything....but if you don't get something resembling this form, you're not getting the correct "papers" for your puppy.


 I want to make it clear to everyone, so that there is no mistake....if you do not receive this form, as pictured above...YOUR DOG IS NOT ABLE TO BE REGISTERED!  I like to compare the process of buying a puppy to that of registering a car with the DMV.  (It's a little different, but has a lot of similarities.)  A direct chain of ownership must be kept through any and ALL transfers of ownership.  This means signatures of all involved parties.  Say for instance, a man and wife divorce and he got custody of the dogs.  If the ex-wife is a co-owner on the registration of the female dog, and is unwilling to sign the litter registration application, then the litter CANNOT be registered by the AKC.  ALL owners MUST sign in order for the application to be approved.    All right then, let's say you've received the form when you picked up your puppy.  This means your dog is registered, right?  WRONG!  Your puppy is not actually "Registered" until you fill out the form and send it back to the AKC.  It's very important that you not lose it, or alter it in any way....these forms are very difficult to replace, as you must go back to the breeder and they have to request a new one from AKC.  Remember, there has to be a chain of ownership, and if you never submit your form back to AKC, so far as they're concerned the breeder still owns your dog.  Therefore, step two is remembering to send in the form, with all the information filled out....within one year of application issue date. (found at top of form). Step three is simple, and doesn't involve any effort on your part.   It's the arrival of your new puppy's registration certificate, which looks like one of these two certificates:


Okay, so what's the difference between the two certificates?
Well, let's go back to what I said earlier about limited registration.  The certificate on the left, with the orange border, is a Limited Registration Certificate.  If you look closely, you'll see that it says so at the bottom.  At the top under where it says "AMERICAN KENNEL CLUB" it also says "Offspring of this dog not eligible for registration".  The blue certificate is a "full" or regular registration certificate and has no limitations as to how or what you choose to use your dog for.   Other than that, both certificates are the same.  The top line is your dog's registered name and registration number.  Below that is the dog's breed and sex.  Then the parent's names are listed, along with their numbers and any genetic clearances they have received.  (See below for OFA and CERF explinations)  Then comes the breeder's name and your name.  This is a very important piece of paper, and you want to keep it in a safe place.  Should you ever sell your dog or return it to the breeder, you should sign the back accordingly and send it with the dog.  I plan to add to this page as questions arise, but hopefully this helps those of you get a general idea of how the AKC works and what Registration is all about.  For more questions and information, visit the AKC web site: www.akc.org


 
Part III: How to read a pedigree
All right then, so I've got a registration certificate...what's all this other stuff??
A breeder should usually give you several things along with your puppy's registration when you buy a new puppy.  Among those that we give in our "puppy kit" are a health record and a pedigree for the new puppy.  I do not consider the pedigree to be "papers" but some people do.  As far as I am concerned, the actual registration certificate is the "papers" much like the pink slip is the "title" for a vehicle.  You could have the car's actual registration without having the title, much as you could have a dog's pedigree without having the registration certificate.  For instance, if someone were to sell you an adult dog, or any dog that had already been registered, (see above) you would HAVE to receive a signed registration to take official ownership of the dog.  If someone says they're giving you the dog's "papers" and you don't receive either a litter registration form or the actual certificate, (both pictured above) then whatever they've given you is useless so far as the AKC is concerned.  Now, what then is the pedigree?  A pedigree is a "family tree" for your dog.  It includes the names of family members going back however many generations, and is very important to anyone who breeds dogs.  It is this that is the most important part of determining whether or not your dog came from "backyard" breedings or was the product of skilled breeding.  Pedigrees can look quite different and be difficult to read, so I'll try to explain how to read one.  The basic structure of a pedigree is always the same.  Here's an example:



So, where do I start, and what do all these weird names mean?
Pedigrees do not have to be difficult to read.  Of course, my sample here is nice and typewritten and easy to see...but that's not always the case.  However, you must start somewhere, and if you can learn to read this one, you'll have a good start.  Oh, and a quick note, pedigrees can be in all different sizes too...for instance, this pedigree is a "five generation pedigree".  Typically you would count the dog you're "doing" the pedigree for, plus every mating back.  So if you just had your dog plus it's parents, that would be a "two generation" pedigree.  Add it's grandparents, and now you've got three generations.   Just for the sake of this exercise, let's say that your dog's name is Rashaun's Rustic O' Desert Sun.  (We call him Rusty)  You can see his name is at the center of the page, at the left side.  Pedigrees are read from left to right, and the names form generations as they line up.  The father's side (sire) is the top half of the pedigree, and the mother's side (dam) is at the bottom.  Just follow the lines to the names they point to. (Sometimes the pedigree may not have lines, but it's still read the same way, just harder to figure out) In this example, Rusty's SIRE is Kristari's Elvis O' Blueridge.  His DAM is Echo Call Mightywager O'Lakmat.  Now, what does the Am Can Ch in front of Elvis's name mean, and why is it a different color than the other names?  Well, here's where the "titles" come into the picture.  When someone told you that a dog has "champ lines" this is what you're looking for.  The abbreviations Am Can Ch stand for "American Canadian Champion".  Generally if a dog is just American Champion, "CH" is used.  There are many, many titles that a dog can have.  In our breed, some of the more common are: 

CONFORMATION TITLES
(BASED ON APPEARANCE -OR CONFORMATION- ONLY, NOT ON ATHLETIC ABILITY OR ABILITY TO PERFORM ANY SORT OF CHALLENGING FEATS)
Am Ch- American Champion
Can Ch- Canadian Champion
Int'l Ch- International Champion
Mex Ch- Mexican Champion
BIS- Best in Show
BISS- Best in Specialty Show (a specialty show is one for that particular breed only.  The opposite would be an all breed show)
WORKING TITLES
(BASED UPON SOMETHING THE DOG HAS DONE....THESE ARE NOT EASY BY ANY MEANS AND INVOLVE A GREAT COMMITMENT ON THE PART OF THE DOG AS WELL AS THE OWNER. )
CD- Companion Dog, an obedience title which usually appears after the dog's name.
CDX- Companion Dog Excellent, the next level after achieving the CD title.
SD- Sled dog (meaning the dog has to log a certain number of miles pulling a sled)
SDX- Next level of SD, harder to get, more hours to log and more demanding.
CGC- Canine Good Citizen, dogs must do a series of basic obedience tasks to show that they are at all times under control and well trained.  All dogs should ideally be able to pass this test!
WPD- Working Pack Dog- basically a 'hiking' degree.  Dog has to carry a pack on it's back for a total of 40 miles!

In addition to the titles, dogs also have abbreviations listed after their names.  These are usually telling you that this dog has had certain certifications done for either hips, eyes or both.  This is a very GOOD thing!  Ideally, the goal (even though it is not at all common)  is to have a pedigree where EVERY dog says "OFA -then a number and a letter" after it's name as well as "CERF number-number-number".  These initials stand for Orthopedic Foundation For Animals and Canine Eye Registry Foundation.  As mentioned elsewhere, these are the primary registries used for testing dogs for gentetic hip dysplasia and eye abnormalities.
So, anyway...that's what the wierd abbreviations mean.  Also, Champions tend to be highlighted in some way to make them stand out, so if you're reading a pedigree and some of the names are bolded or printed in another color, that's to draw attention to the titles that the dog's ancestors have earned. (In our example, the champions are bright blue, and non-titled dogs are gray.) Therefore, if you have someone tell you that a dog has "Champion lines" and you don't see anything highlighted, or don't see any of these titles on the pedigree....then you aren't dealing with someone who knows what they're talking about. (Or worse, they do know and are hoping you won't notice!)  Just one more note on the subject of Champions.  NO DOG IS BORN A CHAMPION!!!!  I have heard many, many people say that someone told them that their new puppy is a Champion.  This is not possible!  Champion is an earned title, and it is absolutely impossible for an eight week old puppy to be a Champion! 

Okay, so let's go back to reading pedigrees.  As I said, the sire's (dad's) side is always at the top, and the dam (mom's) is at the bottom.  This holds true for the whole pedigree.  If you lay a ruler next to the names to find ones that line up, there should always be an even number of names, and from top to bottom they would be male, female, male, female and so on.  For instance, in Rusty's pedigree above, in the first generation are two names, Elvis (his dad) and Mightywager (his mom).  The next generation would be those dog's parents (Rusty's grandparents) and starting at the top is AmCanCh (American Canadian Champion) Kristari's Pacific Skyline and below him, Kristari's Nugget.  Then we skip down to Rusty's Mom's side, (Echo Call Mightywager O'Lakmat) and her parents are Rashaun's Beat D' Odds O'Lakmat (Sire) and Echo Call's Sweet Peaches (Dam).  So long as you remember that the males are always above the females, you should have no trouble...and just remember that it's the same as a human family tree in structure. 

More to come as questions arise!!!!