Berry-Basics
One must ask
children and birds how cherries and strawberries taste.
Goethe
Berry-Basics.
That’s what this column is about on this, my 3rd anniversary with
the Cape Codder, providing me a beautiful subject to celebrate with you. What
could be a better way to begin than with a deep rosy-red Fragonard, a
Bellini-kind of drink, as Nigella Lawson, the beautiful English chef and N.Y. Times columnist suggests in her new
book, Forever Summer. Purée a pint of strawberries in a blender with 2
tablespoons of crème de fraise (optional) or a little sugar if the berries are
not perfectly red and ripe. Mix with a bottle of sparkling white wine such as
Prosecco. That will provide about sixservings to share with friends.
This
first week of June is at last a time of blooming, one that our hearts longed
for in May. Let’s not quibble, but be glad, and bless the beginning of warm
days, casting off our winter mind-sets along with our winter garments. It’s
time to turn our thoughts to lush, fragrant strawberry desserts.
Namskaket Farm in
Brewster on 6A opposite Nickerson State Park, used to be a place where, at the
end of June, with a little bending and squatting you could pick your own quarts
of this healthful fruit. No longer. I visited there last weekto learn those
fields have been gone for four years. If your heart is set on a strawberry
outing, as mine is, there is a grand place on Cape Cod, but you’ll have to do a
little traveling. Tony Andrews Farm, located at 398 Old Meetinghouse Road in
East Falmouth, (508) 548-5257. In speaking with Tony Andrews’ wife, Marina, I
learned that they were the first to have a pick-your-own-fruit farm. They began
that practice in 1942 when manpower was short, although the farm itself started
in the 1920’s. The farm has 3 acres of strawberry plants for picking – that’s
about 6 –7 thousand plants per acre - and they hope picking will begin around
June 15th. They charge by the pound, but you’ll have to call to get
the price and the start date when it gets closer to picking time. You should
also know that they have peas, coming about the same time as the strawberries,
as well as beans, tomatoes and pumpkins, all available for the picking.
Did you know that
just eight strawberries have more Vitamin C in them than an orange and
that the America Cancer Institute believes they reduce the risk of cancer
and heart disease? What could
be better? Eat them plain and enjoy the perfumed flavor on your tongue
and know what a good thing you’re doing for yourself. Or dip them
in sour cream and then into a little brown sugar, or wrap them in a
warm crêpe and dust them with powdered sugar, but whatever you do,
eat them and smile.
If you find the
journey to Falmouth too much, you can purchase good juicy strawberries, grown
in California, at the newly relocated Phoenix Market on Cove Road in Orleans,
(508) 255-5306, or Ring Bros. in Dennis, (508) 394-2244. Think merry times,
berry times, and try some new ways of preparing them.
One of the first things I learned to make as a child, after scrambled
eggs and terrible granulated fudge, was strawberry shortcake made with
Bisquick biscuits and vanilla flavored whipped cream.
Lastly
no article on strawberries would be complete without discussing that powerful
taste-bud-tingling dessert, ‘pandowdy,’ an old-fashioned deep-dish New England
fruit dessert made with maple syrup, molasses or brown sugar, and related to a
cobbler, a grunt and a slump! Don’t you love those names? Slump was a culinary
term immortalized by Louisa May Alcott, author of Little Women. Both
grunt and slump refer to the relative messiness of these succulent desserts
when dished up on the plate. Served with some thick cream or vanilla ice cream
the eye won’t care and the tongue will rejoice. Strawberries combined with
rhubarb make a powerful treat. You’ll find recipes in many traditional
cookbooks such as the Fannie Farmer Cookbook or the Joy of Cooking,
so check them out.
And by the way,
don’t worry if you or anyone in your family get berry stains on your cloths. I
have a super simple trick. Put a kettle of water on to boil. Place the garment
in the sink over a bowl and, holding the kettle of boiling water high in the
air, pour it onto the stained garden. Magic! The stains will come right out. I
promise.
Come celebrate my
anniversary with me and pop another berry in your mouth.