Tube-Zilla

Part 1

 

Only the details specific to this particular sub will be posted here. If you need step by step instructions on building a generic tube sub, please reference the many DIY tube sub sites listed HERE. Also look at PeteG's ported BP1503. Tube-Zilla's end caps, top and bottom plates were fabricated using the same method and design as Pete's.

Tube-Zilla is a sealed design using 2 BluePrint BP1503 woofers. The tube is 20" diameter, and 33.5" in height. The end caps are 2-1/2" thick. The top and bottom plates are 1.5" thick

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The endcaps are 3 layers of  3/4" material. Two inner layers consist of a layer of 3/4" MDF laminated to a layer of 3/4" particle board. A third outer layer is cut oversized to extend beyond the diameter of the tube approx 1/2". This provides a clean edge for the carpet being used to cover the tube.

In the picture above the outer diameter of the woofer frame and the inner driver cut out diameters have been routed. The outer ring is cut to a depth that will allow recessed mounting of the driver. 

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A 3/4" carbide router bit is used to plow out the material remaining between the rings. It's depth is set to that of the outer ring

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One the recess has been cut ,the woofer cut out hole can be cut through. Since these endcaps are so thick, the cut out is started on one side of the end cap and completed on the other.

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The cap is then flipped over and the woofer cutout hole is then completed. This is the inside layer of the cap. I was using up scrap, so this layer is particle board not MDF. 

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The top and bottom plate spacers are 1-1/4" dia. dowels cut 4" long. They are attached to the end cap with 3-1/2" decking screws and epoxy. This is the bottom end cap and plate assembly. The bottom plate itself is 2" large in diameter than the end cap

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This is the top end cap and plate assembly. The plate is the same diameter as the end cap

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This is a test fit of both top and bottom end cap/plate assemblies. To visually balance the look of the tube, the bottom plate is 2" larger in diameter than the top plate. This also adds stability since the upper driver creates a higher center of gravity.

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It was physically impossible to photograph the application of the carpet. There were only 4 hands available and we need at least 2 more.

The carpet was cut to size. Carpet mastic was applied to the tube with a notched trowel. To hold the carpet in place while the mastic dried, hot glue and staples were used. 

I won't detail the process since it was flawed and not worth trying again. The installation however looks quite good.  

Were I to make another carpeted sub I'd use a different process. Before Installing the end caps I'd glue on the carpet, letting the edges do what builders call 'run wild'. That means the carpet is installed oversized then trimmed to fit after the adhesive dries. This would be a much simpler process that what I used. Mask off the edges of the carpet to protect it when attaching the end caps and during painting.

As they say live and learn!

Now fast forward to final assembly......

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I'm jumping forward in the construction. In this photo all the wood has been painted and the carpet has been applied. I tried using long screws to align the rubber gasket and the closed cell foam tape. This was an interesting idea but not too practical. I later removed the rubber gaskets and discarded them. This made sealing the woofers much easier.

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This is just a different view of the bottom woofer installation. I included it to show the seam where the ends of the carpet meet.

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The bottom driver is installed and wired up. The input plates have been covered with caulk to keep the assembly from coming loose due to vibration.

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