[Home]   [3D Renderings]  [AutoCAD]  [2003 Projects]  [2004 Projects]  [favorite links]   [More Renderings]

[Past Projects] [Wood Shop]  [Woodworking Tips]  [More House Pictures]  [Florida Home]

[My Turnings]   [Shop Made Lathe Accessories]  [Other Turnings]

 

  Welcome To
 
Paul Bartlett
 's
  Woodworking Tips 
With Pictures

Tip #1
Resawing

 

When I resaw I use a Bull Nose Guide and a 1/4" 4 teeth per inch blade The important things to do are 

1: Plane one face and joint one edge square to it.

2: Draw a line on the edge along the total length of the board where you want to cut it.

3: Set up the Bull Nose Guide. It must be set at the leading edge of the blade and Square to the blade.

4: Resaw Board while holding the board firmly against table and guide.

5: Stay on the line no matter what angle you have to feed it at. I find that in order to get a straight cut on most bandsaws you have to feed the board at  varying angles.

6: The Blade should be tensioned as tight as you dare to.

Tip # 2
Gluing up Boards Flat

When gluing up boards I first match the grain as best I can then mark the orientation. 

I then Mark a "F" (for fence) on the face near the edge of the first board then I mark a "F" on the opposite face of the adjoining board and so on for the rest of the boards.

When I joint these boards I hold the side with the "F" against the fence so that when they mate up any error in the square ness of the fence will be opposite on adjoining boards. 

Tip # 3
Drilling holes for Adjustable Shelves.

When drilling holes for Adjustable Shelves use a piece of pegboard for a template. 
When the holes ware out you just cut another piece.

Tip # 4
Orbital Sanding Swirl Marks

When sanding using a Orbital Sander It is almost impossible to end up without swirl marks.

I sand All my projects with a orbital sander starting with 120 grit going up through 180-220 grit, then the last sanding is by hand or a inline sander with 200 grit along the grain and I rarely have swirl marks.

Tip # 5
Edge Banding Plywood

If you are gluing a edge or a face frame to plywood and want flush edges that need only light sanding when done You can attach a Base to your Router. Use a flush trimming bit long enough to accommodate the thickness of your band. The base help you keep the router from tipping.

Tip # 6
Dust Collection For Dovetail Jig

This is a Simple Dust Collector I built for my Dovetail Jig. The square inches of the slot equal the square inches of the 4" diameter hose end. I used a PVC gutter transition piece. I keep it mounted back just far enough so it doesn't interfere with the Router. The top of the slot is about flush with the base of the router. This seems to be the best position to catch the sawdust. You can probably make many variations of this that will work just as well or better.

Tip # 7
Iron Out Dents

During the final sanding process I usually find dents in the wood that has happened along the way.
I keep a old flat iron in the shop and wet a small piece of folded paper towel  which I let set on the dent for a few minutes while the iron is heating up. Then I hold the iron on the wet paper until it stops steaming . This raises the dent enough so it can be sanded flush.

Tip #8
Fixing Surface Checks

If you find Surface Checks in a piece of wood that you cant work around you cad hide them by using Thinned hide glue. Rub or brush in some thinned hide glue and let it dry then sand it flush. This works extremely well on White Oak.

Tip # 9
Paint and
Lacquer Storage

An old Refrigerator or Freezer can make good storage for solvents and other finishing supplies.


 Send Me Your Tips