description
The snow piles high in drifts at the bases of the waterfalls, the water having frozen into snow during its 2000+ feet plunge to the valley floor. The shallow part of the Merced River is frozen solid, enough to walk upon. Hungry deer forage in the meadow and bears beg for leftovers. Most of the smaller animals are tucked away. The rock climbers and backpackers have gone home for the season. Fall is over and the crowds are gone. Most of the hustle and bustle is gone with them. A few hardy souls, in their place, brave the elements and enjoy the numbing cold and a relative silence pervades the valley. This is Yosemite in Wintertime. It is a place of solitude, where one may reflect on the absolute beauty of nature. To stand amongst the giants of granite, towering 3500+ feet above you, is almost indescribable. It is easy to visualize yourself as being the first and or only person to view such magnificent beauty. The feeling of human insignificance can be overwhelming, given the scale of architecture and beauty of the valley.
All of the upper trails are closed during winter. The few that are open around the valley are almost completely deserted. Most visitors to the valley this time of year are merely passing through. Some are sightseeing; others are seeking winter sports at the resorts. Most of the lower falls are open and accessible by a short hike from the valley floor. Yosemite is also home to what I think is the only "real" outdoor ice skating rink in California. It is probably one of the most popular Yosemite destinations in winter as people come from around the world to skate here in Camp Curry, at the base of Glacier Point. The sights and sounds of the rink in the evening are so inviting and invigorating as to make even me want to skate. (I'm the size of your average NFL lineman!)
When I was younger, my friends and I would pack all of our gear and head to Yosemite the day after Christmas each year. Those camping trips are some of my most cherished memories. The valley is peaceful and beautiful at that time of year. The falls are relatively quiet, gushing snow instead of water. The few other visitors were mostly tucked safely away on their Winnebagos, rarely to be seen or heard. We called them "Winter Bagels" in our contemptuous, youthful exuberance.
The experience of Yosemite in winter can be many-faceted. It can be awe inspiring, soul searching and exhilarating, all at the same time. Sometimes it is hard to determine just how you do feel because the emotions are so numerous and strong. I find myself perpetually in awe of the magnificence of that which "God" hath wrought. I long to return again, soon. (I was just there last week!)
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Questions? Brian McKinney
(bmckinne@home.com)