Bruce's
DIY Center Channel Speaker
1/10/2002
Revised 11/28/03
Introduction
Components
Crossover
Cabinet
Results

Introduction
I had been using an extremely cheap
center channel that was given to me by a friend. While I certainly
appreciated the gesture it was a terrible speaker. I couldn't understand
dialog and that's the whole point of a center channel. So I went out and
listened to various commercial center channels. Unfortunately, the ones
that I liked I couldn't afford. Since I had recently built a subwoofer I
decided to build the center channel. The subwoofer turned out okay so
what the heck? I ended up spending about $250 for components and about
another $100 for the cabinet (not counting the tools I had to buy to
build it). And it turned out pretty good...

Components
It took me quite
a while to pick out which speakers to design around. The Loud
Speaker Design Guide is an invaluable reference for the beginning
DIYer. After much browsing I decided on the following drivers:
Most
of the components came from Parts
Express . The tweeter came from Speaker
City but Parts Express now carries Focal drivers. I try to buy all
my speaker building parts from Parts Express. They have been responsive
to my e-mail regarding issues with my orders and they also have about
everything that a DIYer could want (as well as good prices).
I picked the Vifa mid/woofer
because it was shielded, had a good review from the LDSG and it was
affordable. I picked the Focal tweeter because it was shielded and it
has a very smooth frequency response. In retrospect I don't think I
would use the Focal again because the face plate is not round, making it
a pain to recess. Also, I don't think Focal is making it anymore. But, I
do like how it sounds. I went with a two way MTM design because it was
my first attempt at a crossover and I didn't want to bite off more than
I could chew. Here are the speaker frequency responses:
 

Crossover
I choose a 3rd order crossover
crossed over at 2.8 kHz for the woofer and the tweeter. Here is the
measured frequency response using ETF
to perform the measurements. I used ETF for two reasons; there is a
calibration file for an analog Radio Shack sound pressure meter and its
a free demo. Also, it gave results that where repeatable, as opposed to
Speaker Workshop which seemed to give a different result every time.The
testing results shown here is with the microphone sitting on my desk
pointing at the speaker from about a foot away. I'll do a little more
formal testing in the future and see if I don't get a little smoother
results.
To design the
crossover I used a student version of Microcap II that I used in
school. While it models the frequency response of the filters, I
couldn't add the driver characteristics to the network the way a
commercially available crossover design program would. I'm fairly happy
with the crossover but it does sound a little nasally in the midrange. I
think a 2nd order crossover would work better with the Vifas.

Cabinet
I used Speaker
Workshop to measure the T/S parameters of the Vifa Woofer after
breaking it in for about two days. I probably drove my cat
crazy with the warble tone that I ran while I was away at work. I have
reservations about the repeatability of Speaker Workshop but it is the
best product for the price right now (free beta version). Its pretty
much useless unless you build a jig
to calibrate it.
I used WinISD
to design the cabinet using the T/S parameters that Speaker Workshop
found. I used a ported
design because I wanted to get the maximum bass out of the center
channel, reasoning that it should have as full a frequency response as
possible since it would reproduce most of the sounds in a movie. WinISD
calculated a box volume of 1.2 cubic feet using 2 -2" ports that are 6"
long. The ports are thick cardboard tubes that I got from work.
I'll buy adjustable ports for my next cabinet so I can try and tune the
box more easily. I used two ports thinking that it would cut down on
port noises.WinISD predicted a 3db down frequency of 45hz for the box,
which agrees with the measurements taken with ETF.
Unfortunately, I got a digital
camera after I built the cabinet so I don't have any construction
pictures but the cabinet is pretty straight forward. Its 3/4" MDF with
braces between each speaker in order to make the baffle as rigid as
possible. I recessed the tweeters and woofers. I lined the interior with
dynamat to reduce resonance. I later lined the interior with egg crate
foam mattress because there was a lot of midrange reflection. That
helped the sound a lot and from now on everyone of my speakers will have
that inside. I tried stuffing the cabinet with polyfill but later took
that out as it gave the bass a papery, thumping quality. Checkout the Patman's
web page for tons of helpful tips on constructing a cabinet. I
pretty much copied his technique for my cabinet.
The veneer is iron-on oak from
Lowe's. You have to be very careful sanding this stuff because its
pretty easy to sand through the wood to the glue underneath. The glue
doesn't accept stain and will stand out pretty badly.You can see a
corner on the back
where I sanded too much.The veneer is very easy to apply though. I also
used a roll of 3/4" iron-on veneer for the front and back edges.A
laminate trimmer for a router will trim the edges flush.
I used Minwax red oak stain and
three coats of semigloss polyurethane to finish it off. The front and
back are finished with Rustoleum Stone Creations textured paint. I found
a web site that sells veneer
for a lot cheaper than Lowe's and will be using it for future projects.
They stock a two ply veneer that is much thicker than the stuff from
Lowe's and it accepts stain better too. However, it is not iron-on and
there apparently is quite a debate over the durability of contact cement
over time.
Results
I'm very pleased with the results.
The sound compliments my Martin Logans, which was a concern. I was
afraid that the timbre wouldn't match but I haven't noticed a big
difference. Dialogue is now understandable and music sounds very good
too. Additionally, everyone who has seen it has been pretty impressed
with how it looks. In the future I plan to tweak the crossover and
fiddle with the port lengths. I'm thinking about trying the Eros
crossover and see how that works. Or I might cough up the money for a
real crossover design program and try my luck at designing my own.
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