Also, mark on both sides where the zipper will end. This is usually a dot on the pattern.
Take the right hand (as you are looking at it – not as you are
wearing it) piece of your garment right-side up and lay the zipper right-side down on the seamline.
The top stop of the zipper should be
just below the 5/8” seamline of the top.
You just want the edge of your fabric to ride along the 5/8" marking on
the machine bed. You will be using the markings on the left side
of the presser foot. This will feel weird, but is necessary since
you want to always sew top down.
The zipper teeth will ride in the right-hand track of the zipper foot.
You don't need to pay any attention to where the zipper is. Just
make sure the edge of the fabric goes along the 5/8" marking of the
machine. (The edge of the zipper should be about 1/8” from the edge of the
fabric.)
Drop the needle down and check to make sure three things are in place
- the top zipper stop just below the 5/8” seamline along the top
- have the fabric edge on the 5/8” line
- zipper teeth in the groove
Now the right size is completely done
Place the zipper on top right-side down. Try to line the zipper stop up perfectly just below the seamline mark at the top like before. Line up your garment edge on the 5/8" mark on the machine bed (the normal right-side of the presser foot). Put your zipper teeth in the groove.
LENGTHEN YOUR STITCH LENGTH TO A BASTING STITCH. DO NOT BACKSTITCH. SEW ONLY ABOUT 2”
Stop. Clip threads and zip up the zipper to see if you have the neck edges lined up perfectly.
If not, then just rip out the basting and try again. Repeat until perfect.
While the zipped is zipped all the way up, mark with a disappearing pen the spot on the zipper where the waistline seam hits.
LENGTHEN YOUR STITCH LENGTH TO A BASTING STITCH. DO NOT BACKSTITCH. SEW ONLY ABOUT 2”
Stop. Clip threads and zip up the zipper to see if you have the waistline seams lined up perfectly.
If not, then just rip out the basting and try again. Repeat until perfect.
Find the spot on the zipper where your stitching ends (on the side that is already stitched), and mark this spot on the zipper.
Line up your mark at the bottom of the zipper with your stopping point marked on the fabric.
LENGTHEN YOUR STITCH LENGTH TO A BASTING STITCH. DO NOT BACKSTITCH. SEW ONLY ABOUT 2”
Stop. Clip threads and zip up the zipper to see if you have the stopping points lined up perfectly.
If not, then just rip out the basting and try again. Repeat until perfect.
Change your stitch length back to normal. Put the zipper teeth in the track. Needle down. Backstitch and then sew making sure the edge of the fabric rides along the 5/8" marking on the bed of the machine. Stretch the fabric a little as necessary to make sure the fabric is the same length as the zipper. Sew to the marked stopping point and backstitch.
