I packed my pockets with energy gels and stuffed two water bottles in my coat, in hopes that they wouldn't freeze. Once outside, we were pleased to discover that despite strong winds the night air was warmer than expected. I could see a line of headlamps from climbers who had started for the summit an hour before us. We would have to work hard to catch them before the second step.
Ang Mingma and I set out quickly up the Yellow Band, the long and sloping traverse that led to the top of the Northeast Ridge. Greg and Mingma followed shortly behind us after sorting their oxygen. We had agreed to regroup just below the second step. The terrain was mixed rock and snow and for this portion of the route both Ang Mingma and I chose not to clip the mangled fixed rope in order to be able to move faster. We quickly caught the first group of climbers and after some cajoling convinced them to move aside and let us pass.
As we gained altitude I increasingly felt the effects of the thin air. The oxygen apparatus was bulky and I found it difficult to create a good seal against my face with the mask. However, it aided my progress and more importantly kept me warm. At times I was even able to remove my clumsy mittens and climb only in a thin glove liner. I kept watching the head lamps of climbers who had already reached the summit pyramid. If they turned back, it would be a sign that the winds on the summit were too strong. The tiny specks of light continued marching higher.
We gained the Northeast Ridge proper, but Ang Mingma continued running ahead. He stopped only briefly to assist with another climber's oxygen apparatus. During that brief moment I tried to force down an energy gel. I knew from experience that a ten hour plus summit push without eating would be impossible for me. "No eating now", said Ang Mingma, and he took off again. I finished the rest of the gel as we climbed.
The first step proved not as difficult as I had imagined. Beyond it was the long and exposed traverse that many climbers had talked about, and where some had fallen to their deaths. The slanted and slippery rock was tricky, but in the dark the exposure was invisible. We reached the second step at approximately 4:30 AM, as the sun was rising. We were forced to wait for twenty minutes here, as four Sherpas pushed a member of the Indian Women's Expedition up the first difficult part of the step. Even under her down suit, mask, and goggles she was visibly terrified.
Once the route was clear we made our way up the lower part of the second step and onto the infamous ladder. Again, the obstacle was not as difficult as I had imagined, but I still gasped for air after every move. One portion in particular was quite exposed and featured rock ledges only a few inches wide with a drop of over 8,000 feet beneath.
Above the second step we stopped briefly for water and deposited a few oxygen bottles in the snow for the way down. Only a few hundred meters of traversing and the third step separated us from the summit pyramid. At that rate the top was under two hours away, but our pace began to slow slightly. I was feeling the effects of the altitude and decided to increase my oxygen flow rate. The day had started well, but I felt that my stamina was rapidly decreasing and my breathing was becoming more labored as the hours passed. At this beleaguered pace it would be another two hours before we climbed the third and final step and moved up the summit snow field.
Atop the summit snow field we were slowed by another group of climbers. The route followed a narrow ledge one to two feet wide. It was impossible to pass other climbers without running the risk of slipping and falling down the sheer North Face. Finally, we entered a small rock gully and climbed the final meters to the base of the summit ridge. From there we could see the summit itself. The time was almost 9:30 AM and several climbers were gathered at the top. Some had ascended via the opposite (South) side of the mountain and were greeting climbers from the North Side.
As we approached the summit I could see that it was littered with oxygen bottles and prayer flags. I walked to the top, looked around, and then sat down to watch others make their way up the ridge. The view was spectacular, especially on the Nepal side. Makalu, Ama Dablam, and countless other Nepalese peaks lay far below us.
Together, Greg and I quickly took a few photos of the view and of each other, but we were mostly focused on getting down. The majority of accidents happen on the descent and we knew that the summit was no place for champagne and celebration. Instead, there was still a considerable amount of work ahead of us. I became increasingly worried about my inability to get enough oxygen. I felt winded even when stationary and breathing from the mask. After two months of preparation we were happy to have finally reached the summit, but now it was definitely time to head down!
I set off with Ang Mingma close behind. I felt I could keep a reasonable pace on the way down and wanted to get as low as possible before I became totally exhausted. Our oxygen supply was also running thin and it was important to get back to the full bottles we had stashed above the second step. However, as we reached the bottom of the snow field my stamina took its second major nosedive of the day. It was now clear that the trip down was going to be a real chore. Either I wasn't as strong as I'd hoped to be above 8000 meters or there was something seriously wrong with me.
After a quick water break above the second step we retrieved the stashed oxygen bottles and continued down. Our pace slowed considerably and we took the chance to rest a minute or two at each anchor along the fixed rope. The Northeast Ridge was ripping with wind and we had to walk hunched over like old men in order to stay upright. Occasionally gusts were so strong that we were knocked off our feet. Fortunately the day was clear and sunny, reducing the fear of frostbite and hypothermia. We took our time, resting frequently.
We reached high camp at 8,300 meters by 4 PM. Greg had moved slightly ahead of me and was waiting for me in the tent with Ang Mingma. The team decided that Mingma would go down to the North Col that night. Greg, Ang Mingma, and I would follow the next day with the tent and other gear from high camp. Ang Mingma found two partially filled oxygen tanks amongst the garbage at high camp to replace the two that had disappeared. I had some tea and a candy bar and quickly fell asleep.
I awoke in the middle of the night cold and uncomfortable. We didn’t have enough sleeping pads to cover the tent floor and I was sleeping on the bare floor. I could feel rocks sticking into my back. I had given my oxygen to Greg a few hours before, after his had stopped working, and now I was freezing and had a splitting headache. I also started coughing up a frothy, yellowish, blood laden mixture. I had had similar issues at high altitude earlier in the expedition, but I didn't think too much of it. Little did I know it was the beginning of a serious lung infection that wouldn’t be diagnosed until the next night.
After a breakfast of tea and candy we started down. Our heavy packs felt even heavier after the previous day’s climb. We passed climbers from several commercial expeditions on the way down. They were heading up for a summit push. This was a sure sign that the next few days would bring perfect summit weather. I thought how it would have been nice to be able to wait a few more days for truly great weather. Alas, we were in a race to get out of China before our VISAs expired.
It was a long day. By 6 PM my pace had slowed to a crawl. Even as I descended into thicker air my breathing became more labored. By the time I reached ABC I could barely walk thirty steps without needing a rest. I ate some pasta and drank as much tea as I could before going to bed. I had a feeling of asphyxiation when I lay down and could hear a loud raspy sound in my chest as I took breaths. Greg and I realized there must be fluid in my lungs when sitting up improved my breathing. Our greatest fear was that I had developed Pulmonary Edema, a common high altitude illness in which the lungs fill with fluid. It was odd that such a condition would worsen on the descent.
After some deliberation Greg left to fetch Julian Thomson, a climber and doctor from another team who was our friend. His examination revealed that I had an infection in my left lung, not Pulmonary Edema. Half the lung was full of fluid. I would have to sleep the night on oxygen, my torso elevated and descend as quickly as possible the next day. Julian also injected an IV of antibiotics in my arm. We hoped that the combination of antibiotics and a move to lower altitude would improve my condition.
Our four day of whirlwind travel back to U.S. started early the next day. The two base camps we had called home for almost two months were broken down in minutes with the help of twenty Tibetans. Our gear was loaded onto Yaks, taken to base camp, and packed into trucks for the two day ride to Kathmandu. We spent the first night at just about the worst hotel I'd ever seen. It made base camp look palatial. Good thing I was too sick to care. We drove several hours by truck to The Friendship Bridge (Nepal/Tibet border) and many more hours by bus to Kathmandu. Upon arrival we were pleased to find suites at the Yak and Yeti Hotel waiting for us. I thought the concierge was going to have a heart attack when he saw our ten filthy duffels.
The next morning over breakfast we met with our Sherpas one last time. We had been very fortunate to be paired with two such extraordinary people. Like many of the Sherpa people Mingma and Ang Mingma possessed qualities one would look for in any person, strength, courage, loyalty, and unbending tenacity. They were great climbing partners, and by Nepalese standards they made a very good living working in the mountains. Yet, they wish they did not have to climb for a living. They hope that their children will go to university and find work away from the dangers of the Himalaya range.
After exchanging contacts and saying goodbye we were whisked away to the airport. Twenty hours of movies later we landed in JFK and enjoyed eating fresh strawberries and cookies courtesy of Greg’s mom. I took us only five days to travel from the summit of Everest to New York City. What a small world.
