The First Step - 27,900' to 28,000'
Two gray limestone outcrops, one atop the other, with a wide sloping ledge between form the First Step. Climbers traverse to the right (north side) of the step to a steep concave rock wall which leads to the ledge. Once on the ledge the upper outcrop is skirted to the right and the ridge is regained beyond the step. Above the step is a jagged knife edge ridge runs to the Second Step.
Once on the Northeast Ridge climbers are faced with three obstacles on their way to the summit. These are the "Steps". Each step is about 100 feet high and blocks the narrow crest of the ridge. Climbers drop off the ridge to their right and climb the north face of each step to regain the ridge above. The Steps represent the most technical climbing on the mountain. At low altitude these obstacles would not be difficult for experienced climbers. At 28,000 feet, heavily clothed, wearing crampons, carrying oxygen tanks, rope and gear and breathing oxygen through a vision restricting mask it is quite another matter. Footing is often poor, it is extremely cold, and wind gusts can reach 50 mph. When they are out on the north faces of steps there is 10,000' of open air beneath them.
The Second Step - 27,200' to 27,300'
Approximately 100 feet in height, the Second Step is the most difficult obstacle on the Northeast Ridge. Direct access to the step from the ridge is blocked by a near vertical 50 to 65 foot snow crest. Climbers drop off the ridge on to its north side and traverse along discontinuous ledges to the base of the step. At the base is a 10 foot high slab with a narrow chimney to the left. Climbers move up the small ledges and rocks on the sides of the chimney. They then must scale a steep 30 foot high snow packed slope. At the top of the slope is a 16 foot headwall. A Chinese expedition fixed a 15 foot ladder on the wall face in 1975. It has been used by climbers since then. One foot shorter than the headwall, it hangs dead vertical on ropes and tends to twist back and forth when ascended. Above the ladder a ledge leads back up to the crest of the ridge.
The Third Step - 28,500' to 28,600'
A long scree (broken rock) slope leads to the Third Step. The step is a 100 foot high rocky outcrop that spans the ridge. Climbers usually skirt it to the right along the north face. However, in recent years it has become common to climb it directly by the chimneys and ledges on its face. Beyond the step lies the Summit Pyramid.
