Then we plunged in Glen Gaeil and crossed the River Aline. At the head of the Loch into which it flowed was Kinlochaline Castle, a great square keep with barred windows, arrow slits and walls built of enormous stone... This is the country where any of the many MacInnes should feel especially at home.
With these words, Grace Campbell in Highland heritage describes the hereditary home of the MacInnes Clan. Located on a strategic point overlooking Loch Aline and the strait of Mull, Kinlochaline today is a gaunt stone square standing as a silent sentinel of the history of the clan MacInnes, one of the most ancient in Scotland yet one of the least known.
MacInnes of course is simply a phonetic attempt at spelling MacAonghais "the son of Angus" and the "Clan Aonghasis" or Children of Angus, are said to have been of the original Dalriads. In fact, it is said that a MacInnes lived on the Isle of Iona with St. Columba in the sixth century. They are certainly of Celtic origin and long with the MacGillivrarys, MacMasters and MacEacheans formed a branch of the Soil Gillebride (the seed of the servant of St Bride), a confederation of clans somewhat akin to Clan Chattan.
The MacInneses were teh original inhabitants of Morvern and Ardnamurchan on the western mainland. By the time of Sumerled, the MacInneses were well established in teh Morvern, and there is a story told of how the Somerled assisted the clan in defeating the Vikings. On this occasion, the Vikings were again terrorizing the inhabitants of Morvern. On learning that Somerled was in their region, the most experienced of the MacInnes clan met to deliberate on their unhappy position. After various options were given, it was decided to send messengers to search for Somerled. Eventually, he was found fishing on the Gear Abhaim (River Aline). When the messengers first advanced, Somerled seemed reluctant to let them come near, he finally relented and heard the MacInnes proposals. At first, he declined to reply. At length, he observed that he was enticed by a sportive salmon, and if successful in landing it, he would consider it a good omen. The salmon was hooked and after bold plunges and struggles was finally safely landed on teh bank. the messengers then explained the nature of their mission in detail, and Somerled, being a person of no ordinary talents and energy, listened to them. He agreed to answer their plea on condition he be allowed to take full command of the MacInnes clan and use his own tactics in dealing with the invaders. These conditions were readily accepted without even the aid of a scrap of paper.
Somerled ordered the MacInnes chief to stay and strip the skins from a herd of cattle, then march the MacInnes clansmen within sight of the Norsmen, first in their usual dress, then clothed in the cowhide with the hair turned inwards, then a third time with the hair outward. thinking the MacInnes were three times their number the Norsemen panicked/ Somerled ordered the clansmen to pursue them. By a series of rapid attacks, the Clan succeeded in slaying two of the enemy's leaders.Borradil and Lundy and another, Strangadil, was so closely pressed that to escape he leaped into a boiling linn (waterfall) which in memory of the event, is still know as Eas-Strangadil. After considerable struggle the Norsemen were expelled from Morvern and Somerled made himself master of the whole Morvern, Locaber and north Argyll. At this point in time the MacInneses honoring their pledge, became vassals to the lord of the Isles.
The MacInneses more or less prospered under the Lord of the Isles until Alexander II ascended the throne of Scotland and began to campaign to conquer Argyll. The MacInneses suffered considerably during the conquest. During this same period of time, the Norwegians were trying to invade and plunder the Western Highlands and the Isles. They affected a landing in Morvern. The Chief of Kinlochaline was sent to a location where the enemy was expected to secure a position of advantage. Moving at night, he came first to the place and took a position with his men. He lay down on a mossy bank and fell asleep. He turned in his sleep and touched a nest of bees that came out and stung him. He leaped up and was just in time to hear the enemy advancing. He took the enemy quite by surprise as they did not expect anyone to oppose them at this point. The MacInnes Chief quietly roused his men and the onslaught was both quick and severe. The Vikings, knowing that defeat was inevitable, panicked and fled for their galleys. However MacDonald's men were waiting for them and made a clean sweep of the rest of the raiders.
When it was all over, MacDonald addressed Kinlochaline in the following words: Mo bheannachd ort fhir chlinn lochalainn! fh'ad's a bhois MacDomnuill a stight, cha bhi MacAonghais a muigh. (My blessing on you, Chieftain of Kinlochaline! Whilst MacDonald is in power, MacInnes shall be in favour). The Chieftain of Kinlochaline's answer ackknowledged that the descendantsof the Clan MacInnes shall carry on the friendship and that the deed will be remembered by placing a bee on a thistle in the Crest of MacInnes.
From before the time of Somerled, the MacInneses were keepers of the Castle of Kinlochaline, known locally as Caiteal an Im (Castle of Butter). It is said that a lady of the Clan MacInnes, Dubh-Chal, paid teh architect in butter to the capacity of the castle. Over the main fireplace in the castle is a carving of a woman holding an object in one hand. This may or may not have been the builder of the castle, but since it was carved at the time of the castle's erection, it is entirely feasible. It appears that the castle was held by the MacInneses for Roderick McKenzie of Colgeach, the famous "Tutor fo Kintail", until it was besieged about 1645 by Colkitto the Royalist, during Montrose's campaign.
Eyre-Todd reports that the MacInnes Chiefs sleep their last sleep in teh little burial ground of Kilcolunkil, a short distance away from teh castle. Several of their monuments are to be seen, slab stones beautifully sculptured with intricate of foliage and tracery. No inscriptions remain to tell the names of the sleepers or the deeds they performed.
Although at one time Vassals to the Lord of the Isles, this did not prevent the murder of the MacInnie Chief in 1390. The incident began over a visit tht the MacInnes paid to the wife of the MacDonald who was living apart from her husband. After he returned home, the MacInnes remarked that his hostess "kept a dirty house". When the MacDonald heard this, he was enraged despite beign estranged from his wife, as if he felt that it reflected on his clan. So, he ordered his son to wreak vengeance upon the MacInneses. This was not done as one might expect considering the Clans involved. There were no galleys full of Highlanders with broadswords clashing and arrows and spears flying through the air. The deed was accomplished with teh treachery one might expect of a lesser clan. The Chief of the MacInnes together with five of his sons was invited to the castle (Ardtornish) of an enemy Chieftain of the MacLean Clan, who pretended to be friendly to the Lord of the Isles, John. In good faith, the MacInneses honored the invitation and visited the castle. Little did they know that they would be murdered in their sleep by the MacLean's under the direction of the Lord of the Isles.
The murder of the Chief and the Conquest of Alexander II resulted in teh dislocation of the Clan MacInnes. The portion of the Clan that remained in Morvern came under the protection of the Clan Campbell, the only clan of which macInneses became a Sept. This is also, the apparent reason behind the MacInneses retaining possession of Kinlochaline. There have been claims that the MacInnes were at one time Septs of both MacGregor and MacFarlane. However, no historical data can be found to back these claims.
Although a Sept of Clan Campbell, during the "45" one branch of the MacInnes Clan followed Stewart of Ardshiel. As they faced the Royalist Army and heard the Pibrock of the Argyll Campbells, they had a very personal interest in the coming battle. While away in Morvern, the Campbells had come down, ravaging the countryside. Of the 300 Appin men who went into battle, 42 were killed and more than 60 wounded. It is on record that four of the Clan MacInnes were killed and two wounded while fighting the Stewart of Appin's Regiment.
At York in 1764 twenty three rebels were hanged. "Many of them were Highlanders, a MacLean and a MacGregor, a MacKenzie and a MacGinnis, a Fraser, MacDonald, MacKellar and MacInnes." (Prebbles Culloden).
Although traditionally associated with the mainland, a branch of the MacInneses (believed to have been descended from the second son of the keeper of Kinlochaline) settled in Skye and became hereditary bowmen to the Chiefs fo Clan MacKinnon. First of the Skye family was "Neil a'Bhogha" (Neil of the Bow) famous for his skill and prowess as an archer. On one occasion, a seanachaidh (bard) recalls Neil's cattle were raided by a party f MacLeods near Corry in the Parish of Strath. Neil single-handedly attacked the reivers and killed 12 of them before recovering his stolen stock.
When Neil was an old man some fo the younger generation refused to believe tales of his skill and decided to bput him to the test. Clad in sheets, several you men hid in the churchyard at Kilchrist and arose behind a dyke when Neil arrived along hte road from Broadford. "Spooks or whatever ye be" cried out Neil, "if it's a fight you're wanting, you can have it now -- for Neil, son of John, the son of Ewan has more friends lying in that churchyard than your thinking". Whereupon his stick in hand, Neil leaped over the dyke and sent the "spooks" flying.
"Sqithanach" is a Gaelic word meaning a Skye man. There's an old proverb, "As long as there is a stick in the forest, there is treachery in the heart of the Sgithanach". There was a skye man name Maol-Moire MacInnes, whse home in the Misty Isles was near Culnacnon in the Trotternish District. When the Duke of Marlborough in the Netherlands, he almost single handedly captured a large group of French soldiers. Shooting them all was out of the question, but he had to somehow manage the group along. He raised their hands in teh air. The French soldiers exected to be shot in the back but instead MacInnes went down the line cutting each man's suspenders. The soldiers were too busy holding up their pants to try to escape. That's Sgiathanach"
Today, Lochaline is a quiet coastal village. Ferry service joins it to the Isles and to the mainland at Oban. A narrow single land paved road winds northward through Morvern towards Ft William. A fine quality sand is foudn here which is used for the making of optical lenses. It is also the only sand used in making the beautiful Edinburgh Crystal. The tiny fishing boats put out from the Loch into the Strait of Mull. The choir practices in the tiny kirk nestled back among the trees. Across the mouth of the loch from teh almost silent village stands a square of enormous stones.
The ruins of Ardtornish. The days of fierce battle, the Viking invaders, and the feuding clans are past. The ancient clan which established, nourshed and had this land for centuries before its treacherous cripling in the 14th century rises across the seas in a new land. The Clan MacInnes society accepts the challenge of Kinlochaline, raises the tartan banner and the new clan cry. "Again MacInnes"