The engine is original in the GTX, here's the pad on the front of the block with the engine type, assembly date and the all important HP2 code. If there were any factory undersized bearing journals, they would also be identified here.

The numbers stamped on the lower rail of the engines right (passenger) side match the last 8 digits of the cars vehicle identification number. This confirms that this is the original engine. The matching numbers add to the cars value.

This is the block casting number and casting date ( 2-26-69 ). There is also an indicator showing it was cast during the day shift and something that looks like a clock, I assume it tells when during the day shift the block was cast.

Although the engine had obviously been worked on in the past, the heads have never been off. Look closely and you will see the imprint of the Chrysler logo and what is probably a part number from the original head gaskets.

The heads on the engine are also original and appear to be in pretty good shape too. The photo on the right shows the casting numbers for these heads. The numbers in the upper photo are found on the block side of the head at the center intake ports. The lower photo shows the casting number on an intake runner (under the valvecover). These popular castings are known as "906" heads. The casting date (not shown) is 2-24-69.

Casual inspection didn't turn up any serious trouble. The inside of the engine isn't too dirty considering the miles it's got on it, the heads were also pretty clean. The valves looked ok despite having hit the piston tops. Only the exhaust valves have minor carbon deposits on them. And of course, the 30 year old factory umbrella seals are in rough shape.

Remember when I mentioned an oil consumption problem? I'm sure this broken ring had something to do with it. Generally, the bores were in pretty good shape, the worst one being only .008 oversized when measured just below the ridge at the top of the cylinder. Marks in the piston tops revealed contact with the valves.

The #3 and #6 connecting rod bearings were badly scored with large areas of copper showing. They also had no crush left in them! I wonder how much longer they would have held up? I'm glad I caught it before a bearing failed and put a rod through the side of the block!

The main bearings looked a little better. Although, metal particles were embedded in them. (The oil pump pickup was packed with bits of timing gear, nylon and metal) Otherwise, the wear was even and crankshaft end play was well within specs. It looks like things were a little starved for oil.

The forged steel crank was also scored lightly. It should clean up ok. With the main caps removed and a dial indicator on the #3 main journal I rotated the crank slowly. It turned out to be perfectly straight (.000 runout).