As you open the doggie, you will find a PC board with wires traveling up the neck.
Masking tape placed inside by the factory, holds the wires down.
You can carefully remove the masking tape to get a better look inside.
Take the face off to view the leds and nose switch. A single motor is toward the lower right, just under the board.
After removing a screw that holds the neck down to the body, access to the neck wires is possible.
The most important modification required is to attach wires parallel with the nose switch.
If you look under the board, just below the spot were the nose switch is, there are two gold testpoints.
I used a ohmmeter to locate two vias on the board to connect wires. I used wire-wrap wire to make the connection.
Closeup showing were to solder the wires to activate the nose button.
Motor wires connect to M- and M+ pads. (see lower left)
Disconnect M- wire and connect to a piece of wire. Use heat shrink tubing to cover joint.
Attach another wire to the M- pad.
By connecting the pair together outside the Idog, the motor is free to turn on.
Keeping it open keeps the motor off.
The Idog's speaker wires connect under the board to pads marked S+ and S-.
Unsolder the S+ wire, connect to a piece of wire and connect another to the S+ pad.
This pair will control the sound from the idog.
Attaching the power wires.
Upper right corner is +4.5 volts (red).
Just below the red wires is a orange wire. Connect +3 volts here if you want power the motor.
Lower right, on the tiny PC board is the negative lead (common) of the 4.5 volts.
So there you go, That's the location of all the places were wires are attached. The next phase is to bring them out to your Picaxe controller.
I brought all the wires
to a pin strip and used ribbon cable with a connector to make the
connection to my Picaxe controller. Since I had no interest to
connect the motor, I just used the first 6 wires to connect to the
picaxe controller. Use of the motor will be done at a later date.
After connecting the nose switch to the optocoupler and you find it does not turn on, reverse the connections to pins 4 and 5 of the optocoupler. I used a 4N32 darlington opto, just because it was all I had laying around. Any optocoupler should work. With an ohmmeter connected to the nose switch, I found when pressed, it had a resistance around 100 ohms. So because of that, in the beginning, I inserted a 100 ohm resistor in series with the optocoupler. Found later it was not required. The MCU uses a pull-up resistor.
Other uses for the controlled i-dog.
Add a RTC and make a alarm clock (activate the sound).
Connect to the computer, write a program to use as a alarm for instant messenger, email, etc.
Be sure to check my Flickr link for more detailed photos. If you need a high res. photo, Email me.
Schematics of the Picaxe controller.
Controller.pdf Uses switches for sound and motor control.
Controller2.pdf Picaxe turns on sound when waking up and going to sleep or if enough "nose petting" occurs.
Controller3.pdf Minimum circuitry for a controller with sound and lights. Use with idog2.bas
controller.pdf
controller2.pdf
controller3.pdf
Program for the picaxe to control the dog
idog.bas
idog2.bas Activates the sound
Links:
Link showing very good dissection of the dog.
http://f.hatena.ne.jp/nwe99/20051008232128
Another group took a Hasbro I-dog apart, good photos
http://xdesign.ucsd.edu/feralrobots/idogblog/2006/02/
http://xdesign.ucsd.edu/feralrobots/idogblog/
My I-dog on Youtube, a demo, good varity of songs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WENrU6-IfGs
Google Video, First tests after adding wires.
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-8449432037975732669
My Flickr photos of the autopsy
http://www.flickr.com/photos/botronics/tags/idog/
English translation of the manual from AudioCubes
idog.pdf
Idog webpage
http://www.idog-segatoys.com/
After connecting the nose switch to the optocoupler and you find it does not turn on, reverse the connections to pins 4 and 5 of the optocoupler. I used a 4N32 darlington opto, just because it was all I had laying around. Any optocoupler should work. With an ohmmeter connected to the nose switch, I found when pressed, it had a resistance around 100 ohms. So because of that, in the beginning, I inserted a 100 ohm resistor in series with the optocoupler. Found later it was not required. The MCU uses a pull-up resistor.
Other uses for the controlled i-dog.
Add a RTC and make a alarm clock (activate the sound).
Connect to the computer, write a program to use as a alarm for instant messenger, email, etc.
Be sure to check my Flickr link for more detailed photos. If you need a high res. photo, Email me.
Schematics of the Picaxe controller.
Controller.pdf Uses switches for sound and motor control.
Controller2.pdf Picaxe turns on sound when waking up and going to sleep or if enough "nose petting" occurs.
Controller3.pdf Minimum circuitry for a controller with sound and lights. Use with idog2.bas
controller.pdf
controller2.pdf
controller3.pdf
Program for the picaxe to control the dog
idog.bas
idog2.bas Activates the sound
Links:
Link showing very good dissection of the dog.
http://f.hatena.ne.jp/nwe99/20051008232128
Another group took a Hasbro I-dog apart, good photos
http://xdesign.ucsd.edu/feralrobots/idogblog/2006/02/
http://xdesign.ucsd.edu/feralrobots/idogblog/
My I-dog on Youtube, a demo, good varity of songs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WENrU6-IfGs
Google Video, First tests after adding wires.
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-8449432037975732669
My Flickr photos of the autopsy
http://www.flickr.com/photos/botronics/tags/idog/
English translation of the manual from AudioCubes
idog.pdf
Idog webpage
http://www.idog-segatoys.com/
