Draft:
3-4-05
Overview:
In learning to ride a unicycle, there are three important things to remember:
1.
Practice.
2.
Practice.
3.
Practice.
In
other words, most unicyclists spent many hours learning how to ride. In fact, it takes usually 10 to 15 hours of concentrated
practice before you can ride a short distance.
A few people learn it more quickly; many of us take much longer. Don’t
get discouraged. Just remember that practice is by far the biggest factor in
learning to ride.
Learning
to ride means learning how to balance forward and backward and side to side over
the wheel. While that’s difficult, it’s possible to learn on your own
without a formal instructor or lessons.
Learning
to ride:
1.
Sit with as much weight on the unicycle seat as you can. There should be
very little weight on the pedals as you ride.
At
first, you will need to constantly remind yourself to shift your weight to the
unicycle seat. After awhile, this becomes natural.
2.
Look ahead, rather than down.
3.
Sit straight.
There
are various techniques to use to get started.
Here’s one that many riders have found useful.
Getting
on for the first few times:
Eventually, you’ll learn the proper technique of how to freemount, or get on
the unicycle without help. But that takes a great deal of additional practice,
so you must first learn to get on with help.
1.
Use support—either a helper on each side of you, or a solid object such as a
wall. Place a hand on your helpers’ shoulders.
2.
Put the pedals on the unicycle in roughly the up and down position. If you are right-foot dominant, put the pedal on your right
in the lower position nearest the floor.
3.
Tilt the seat under you and seat on the seat with the wheel out in front of you.
Hang on to your support.
4.
Place your dominant foot on the down pedal.
Put your weight on the seat and on that pedal.
With help, step your other foot up to the higher pedal.
As you step up, you’ll be transferring your weight to the down pedal,
which will cause the unicycle wheel to roll back under you.
5.
Once you’re seated on the unicycle, put as much weight on the seat as you can.
As soon as you can, slowly rotate the pedals to bring them to a horizontal
position, rather than up and down.
This
is your most stable position—seated, with the pedals horizontal. Once you’re
in this position, relax and get the feel of just sitting on the unicycle while
holding onto your support. Then push down on the pedal in front to rotate the
pedals just one-half revolution, so they are horizontal again. Stop again and
balance in that position.
6.
Continue to do one-half and then full revolutions, stopping frequently to get
the feel of being over the wheel. It normally takes hundreds of tries before
you’ll be comfortable with this basic process. Don’t give up.
As
you progress, continue to use support, but slowly use less. While it’s wise to
begin with using the shoulders of a helper on each side of you to provide
support, don’t depend on your helpers to support most of your weight. Transfer
that weight to the unicycle seat. That will help you learn much faster and will
be much easier for your helpers.
Gradually,
reduce the support to just one helper or to a wall. Since this process normally
takes several hours, it’s better to use the sides of a gym or a railing for
support, rather than helpers after your first few tries. Try not to lean into
the wall, however. Stay as straight as you can, using your outstretched arms to
help you balance and to get support.
Once
you feel more comfortable riding along a wall, ask a rider to ride with you.
That helps your body get a sense of what it’s like to ride unassisted. It also
allows your body to learn to adjust and correct your balance without actually
stepping off the unicycle. Realizing
that you can react and adjust if you feel yourself getting off balance is a big
step toward learning to ride on your own.
Other
tips:
Try
to spend most of your early learning time actually on the unicycle. If you try
to speed up the process and consequently fall off a lot, it could actually take
longer, since much of your time will be spent trying to get back on.
Don’t
depend on helpers. Spend most of your early learning time using a wall or
railing for support.
Don’t
get discouraged. Many people give up early, deciding this is too difficult to
learn. It isn’t. It just takes time and practice, and it’s worth it.
Overview:
There are several ways to learn to turn. Try all the suggestions and see what
works best for you.
Learning
to turn:
1.
Ride forward with arms outstretched like wings.
2.
Gently twist your upper body in the direction you want to go. Look in that
direction, too.
3.
Push down hard on the inside pedal.
Other
tips:
Some
riders like to turn their shoulders in the direction they want to go. Others
point their hand, with arms outstretched, in the direction they want to go.
Others lean in that direction. Another method to try is to point your knee when
it’s in the upper or bent position (rather than straight on the down pedal) in
the direction you want to go.
Remember
to practice turns in both directions. It normally takes riders at least an hour
or two to learn turning, but it rarely (if ever) takes longer than learning to
ride. Turns will become easier and smoother with practice.
Overview:
A controlled dismount, getting off the unicycle gracefully, is relatively easy
to learn. Controlled dismounts are required when testing for all but the
earliest skills class. Dismounts are done by stepping off to the back with the
unicycle in front.
Learning
to dismount:
1.
Use a solid support or a helper to get the feel of stepping off with the
unicycle in front. With support and with pedals level, practice stepping off by
putting one foot down, then the other, while the unicycle remains in front.
Usually, it is easy enough to grab the saddle of the unicycle as you dismount to
prevent it from falling.
2.
While riding forward, gradually slow down and put slightly more pressure on the
back pedal as you feel yourself almost coming to a stop. From that almost
stopped position, step back and down with one foot and then the other.
Other
tips:
Practice
controlled dismounts early. Sometimes
riders get so used to “falling off” the front of the unicycle that it
becomes difficult for them to learn to step off to the back. Controlled
dismounts demonstrate your mastery of unicycling and appear much cleaner than
stepping, falling, or jumping off without control.
Overview: Idling, or staying in one place while sitting on the unicycle, is a very useful skill. As is true in learning most unicycling skills, it simply takes practice. Sit firmly on the seat, look forward, move the pedals back and forth in a rocking motion, and use the support of a wall or a helper to get started.
Be sure to practice idling by alternating which foot you have in the down position. This builds strength on both sides of the body and also makes it easier to learn other, more advanced unicycling skills.
Equipment:
Learning to idle is normally easier on a smaller wheel size, such as a
20-inch for anyone able to comfortably ride that size. However, it’s not much
more difficult to learn on a slightly larger wheel size.
Be sure there’s enough air in your tire.
Learning to idle:
1.
Sit firmly on the unicycle seat and look ahead. Begin with a helper or
two, or stretch out one arm to get some support from a wall.
2.
Place one foot on the pedal that’s in the down position and rest the
other foot lightly on the pedal that’s on top. If you are right-foot dominant,
you may want to begin with that foot down first. Use the bottom foot to begin a
rocking motion. Move the bottom pedal back and forth in the motion of a
pendulum.
3.
Keep your body upright.
4.
Don’t tense up. Relax and feel your weight sinking into the unicycle
seat as the foot on the bottom pedal moves smoothly forward and backward. The
range of motion in idling is normally less than reaching a horizontal position
with the pedals. The range usually decreases with practice.
5.
Count the pedal strokes. That helps you stay focused and allows you to gauge
your progress.
As you get more comfortable with idling, let go of the support for a few
seconds. Then gradually increase that time until you no longer need support at
all. In an hour or so of solid practice, you should find you’re making
progress. If you aren’t actually idling, you will have a good idea of how
it’s done.
Other tips:
Also practice riding forward, stopping, and getting into a position to idle without assistance.
Remember to develop both your right and left sides—alternate the position of your feet, so you learn to idle with either foot in the down position.
It’s possible to practice idling in smaller, more confined areas. Find opportunities to practice for even a few minutes each day. Frequent practice helps your body adjust to the sense of balance necessary to develop the skill.
When using a wall for support in the early stages, begin with one hand providing support. Gradually increase the time without support and decease the amount of support. For example, allow yourself only the occasional support of your smallest finger against the wall to keep you steady.
Overview: There are two forms of the basic freemount, or the technique used to get onto the unicycle without help. The two forms of the standard freemount are forward and rollback. Most riders attempt to freemount hundreds of times before they can successfully manage it even a percentage of the time. Be sure to practice with the support of helpers or a solid structure before trying it alone.
Learning to
freemount:
Standard Forward
In this technique,
the rider’s weight is shifted forward, so that the rider goes forward
immediately after getting the second foot on the second pedal.
1. Start with the unicycle in front.
2. Rotate the wheel so the pedals are almost level (the same distance from the floor on either side). You probably will adjust the exact position of the pedals as you experiment with this freemount.
3. If you want, reach down with your hand and position the pedal that’s in the forward position so that it’s flat (which will make it easier for your foot to land on it later).
4. With both feet on the floor, sit on the saddle as much as possible.
5. Place one foot on the pedal to the back (nearest your body), placing very little of your weight on that pedal. (The wheel should not move.)
6. Lean way forward and hop your other foot up to the pedal in front, immediately pushing down with that foot to ride forward.
There will be little or no movement of the wheel during this freemount until your second foot actually lands on the second pedal and pushes it down.
It can be intimidating to hop forward and try to land your foot on the second pedal. Use a spotter or solid structure to practice this before trying it solo.
In learning this freemount, leaning forward significantly will help. It places more weight to the front, making it easier to move forward once the second foot lands on the pedal.
Standard
Rollback
In this technique, the rider’s weight, placed on the seat and one pedal, will cause the wheel to roll backwards about a quarter turn before the rider actually moves forward.
1. Start with the unicycle in front.
2. Rotate the wheel so that the pedal on the same side as your dominant foot is to the back, or closest to your body, and slightly lower than the other pedal. (When your foot is placed on that pedal later, your knee will be bent, not straight.)
3. You may want to reach down with your hand and adjust the position of the other pedal. It should be positioned so that it is flat when it comes up to the top position, so it will be easier to place your second foot on it later, as explained below.
4. With both feet on the floor, sit on the saddle as much as possible.
5. As you place your dominant foot on the lower pedal and push it down, things will happen quickly. The wheel will move backwards under you, and the other pedal will come up on top. The momentum of that movement will give you time to quickly hop up your foot and “grab” the pedal that’s on top, push it backwards slightly, and then push it forwards to ride forward.
The key is in slapping your second foot onto the second pedal, pushing that pedal to the back, then forwards. The other key is to keep the wheel moving smoothly throughout this freemount.
If you miss the momentum of the move, you’ll end up in the dead spot—the pedals will be straight up and straight down, and it is very unlikely that you’ll be able to move forward from that position.
Practice this freemount with spotters or a solid structure. Just getting the feel of how the wheel will move under you as you place your weight on the first pedal will help you learn the freemount.
Some riders find it’s helpful to begin learning the techniques involved in idling at the same time as learning this freemount, since the skills are closely related.
Other tips:
Lower the seat slightly. Normally, the saddle should be high enough so that the riders’ legs are almost fully extended as they ride. But lowering the saddle height by about an inch may be helpful while learning to freemount.
Riding Seat-Out
Overview: Riding with feet (and weight) on the pedals and with the
unicycle saddle held out in front of or behind you so that little or no weight
rests on it.
There are three parts to this skill: getting the seat out, riding that way, and
getting the seat back in.
Learning to ride seat-out front:
1. While riding, slow or stop, stand up on the pedals, grab the seat and pull it forward as quickly as you can. Stand up on the front part of your foot and keep your legs as far apart as you can to make it easier, especially since many saddles are fairly wide. Some riders pull the seat out with one hand, then grab the side or back of the seat to hold on to with the other hand. Hold the saddle close to your body for stability.
2. Pedal smoothly, trying to put the same amount of pressure on each pedal as you ride. Remember that most of your weight is now on the pedals and it shifts as the wheel rotates.
3. To replace the seat, slow or stop, stand up on the pedals, and quickly push the seat back in, or the reverse of step 1.
Most riders learn this skill by starting from a wall with the seat already pulled out and learn the riding part of the skill first.
It’s also helpful to ride with one other person when attempting the entire skill to keep you balanced while you learn to pull the seat out.
You can practice seat-out front with the saddle touching your body or with your upper body resting on the saddle (stomach on seat). As you improve, practice with the saddle extended and not touching your body at all.
Learning to Ride Seat-Out Back
Follow the same procedure as for Seat-Out Front. Most riders switch hands, using one hand to push the seat out behind them and the other to hold it once it’s out.
Other tips:
To prepare for this skill, practice riding with no weight on the seat, all weight on the pedals. The seat is still there, but you are not being supported by it.
If you ride with
your seat set reasonably high it may be easier to learn this skill if you lower
it a bit.
One of the things that makes seat out difficult is that, as the wheel rotates,
the amount of pressure each foot exerts needs to change to keep your balance.
This is true when riding an ultimate wheel as well. You need to become
accustomed to varying the force on each foot as the wheel turns.
Some people find it easier to hold
onto the seat with both hands, use whatever works.
At first, anchor the saddle into your body as much as possible. Once you get
used to riding like this, your body will figure out for itself how to vary the
pressure from each leg so that you can ride without the wheel wobbling madly.
Then try moving the seat out from your body a bit. Gradually move it away as you
improve. Eventually you should be able to ride holding the seat with one arm
fully extended.
Stand with the front of your foot on the pedals to make it easier to pull the
seat out.
Clothing
Here are a few guidelines for new riders:
1. Shorts. Wear bike shorts. Most males suggest that wearing tight-fitting, padded cycling shorts next to the skin provides the best protection and comfort. Most males also wear shorts or slacks over the cycling shorts. Females also recommend cycling shorts, especially for longer rides.
Jeans are usually not comfortable for riding. The seams tend to add to the discomfort.
2. Shoes. Many riders prefer shoes with flat soles. Riders have often used Converse tennis with high tops that cover the ankle. Shoes with heels may be slightly more dangerous since the heel could be caught on the pedal during an accidental dismount, preventing the rider from landing on his or her feet.
Some riders prefer shoes that have more grip on the pedals to prevent the foot from sliding off, especially during long rides.
3. Shoelaces. Long shoelaces have caused riders of all ages, sizes, and abilities to fall. Shoelaces can easily get caught on the cranks, wind around, and pull the rider off. What’s worse, when the rider falls, his or her foot is trapped by the tangled shoelace, so the rider often falls on knees, arms, chest, or face. Always tuck in your shoelaces. Double-tie long laces. If they become loose, stop and retie them.
4. Common problems. New riders often complain of sore knees. Usually, raising the height of the saddle helps correct that problem.
Bruises are often very common, especially for new riders. Shin protectors may help.