|
SAIL
for the
CURE
|
|
Event Day Schedule |
| 10am - 12pm:
Event Check-In. Pick up your Sail for the Cure packet and
T-shirt, check out the silent auction items. Please, no on-site
registrations. Portland Yacht
Club The skipper's packet will include instructions on sailing this year's event. 12 - 3pm: Sail for the Cure. The Columbia River near navigational buoy #14. 4 - 6:30pm: Reception with Silent Auction & Live Auctions
Portland Yacht Club |
Silent & Live Auctions
This year's auction will feature a wide variety of exciting items, including gardening packages, a float plane ride and a private lunch and tour of a local winery. Whether for you or as gifts, you'll find something for everyone's taste!
You can pay by Visa® or MasterCard®, cash or check. Items must be purchased and picked up the night of the event.
Donating to the Auctions
Having something you'd like to donate to the auction? Maybe a bottle of wine, service, gift certificate or an item for a theme basket?
Send an e-mail to SFCSilentAuction@owsa.net and our donation committee will contact you. Please make arrangements to donate by September 10.
We encourage each boat to donate an item to the auction.
Note: Please check with your tax advisor on deductibility.
Pink Sails Club
For $25, purchase a pink burgee (pennant), we'll add the name of someone special and you can fly it on a boat the day of the event. Just check the box on the registration form and fill in your honoree's name. (Order must be received no later than September 2.)
Registration Fees
Early registration, through September 2: $35 per person (children age 12 and under are $15 and allowed by skipper permission only) and includes entry to the reception and a T-shirt.
Late registration, September 3 through September 22: $45 per person (children age 12 and under are $25 and allowed by skipper permission only) and includes a T-shirt (no guarantee T-shirts will be available day of event).
Breast cancer survivors will receive a Sail for the Cure hat (additional hats will be for sale) and all net proceeds will be donated to the local affiliate of the Komen for the Cure foundation.
Reception only registration: $10 per person (does not include T-shirt).
Register Online or by Mail
Online: Online Registration
Mail:
Download Registration Form
(To download, right click on the link and select "Save Link As...")
Mail registration form and entry fee to:
(please make checks payable to OWSA)
Oregon Women's Sailing Association
Sail for the Cure
PO Box 17615
Portland, OR 97217
Early registration deadline:
September 2, 2008
Be sure to secure your early registration rate and to guarantee your T-shirt and Pink Sails burgee order.
For more information, call 503-245-2882 or send an e-mail to SFCRegistration@owsa.net.
| Racing |
Congratulations
to Don Woodhouse and his crew for winning the SYSCO Summer Series.
The late snow melt had the river level high and the current swift. Except for race 3, the wind was great and you didn't really need to be too concerned about the 3+ knot current your were sailing in.
Don has been noted for his downwind sailing skill, but his summer series success can also be attributed to his improved starts and his ability at calling the laylines better on the way to the windward mark.
By the end of the series everyone's skills had advanced. The winds had been medium to strong for most of the series. In some races we flew spinnakers and in others we didn't when the wind's velocity was judged to be beyond our skills with a flying sail. Thanks go out the crews that helped make it all possible.
Again, congratulations Don. Well Done!
| 6-5 | 6-12 | 6-19 | 6-26 | 7-10 | Total | ||
| Skipper | Boat | 1 | 2 | 3* | 4 | 5 | |
| Don Woodhouse | Togarty | 2 | 1 | - | 6 DNC | 1 | 10 |
| Weston Becker | Celeste | 4 | 4 | - | 1 | 2 | 11 |
| Dan Dugan | Harmony | 6 DNC | 2 | - | 2 | 3 | 13 |
| Scott Ferre | Promiseland | 3 | 3 | - | 6 DNC | 5 | 17 |
| Dale Mack | Crocus | 1 | 6 DNC | - | 6 DNC | 4 | 17 |
* Note: The 6/19 race was abandoned by the race committee due to a lack of wind.
Scenes from the SYSCO Summer Series
![]() Promiseland
Harmony |
![]() Celeste
Togarty & Celeste |
![]()
This season I've had the privilege of having two other Fleet 20 members crewing for me (Tim Taylor and John Clark). After Laura and I returned from our San Juan Islands cruise, Tim, John, and myself discovered that Tim and John would not be available for the last race of the summer series. Normally I would have just picked up the phone and called one of the many folks who have offered to sail with me, but in this case I decided to do something I hadn't done before, race alone.
I single hand Crocus a lot (one to two times a week), and anyone who has ever been aboard knows the boat has all of its control lines led aft to the cockpit. Over the last couple of years, I've even flown my symmetrical spinnaker by myself. I've found that the toughest part about sailing alone is when I have to go to the bow for the whisker or spinnaker pole. Using my Tiller-Tamer I'm able to leave the cockpit for brief periods in light to moderate air, but in moderate to heavy air I'm pretty much restricted to staying in the cockpit. I know some folks have rigged a continuous line from the tiller to the bow and back to the tiller that allows them to steer when even on the bow. I haven't taken this step yet, but I might consider it if I did a lot of solo racing. For the time being I accept that in some conditions I just won't be using the poles, and thus will have to sail wider angles to the downwind marks.
It's
Thursday, July 10 and the wind is blowing in the mid to upper teens.
Normally I would fly the 150 with a reefed main, but instead I opted for the 110
and a full main figuring that with my novice solo racing skills the 110 would
give me better visibility. Once out of the marina the main and Genoa go up
and I'm flying upriver toward the race committee boat to check in. With
both sails drawing now I'm sailing back and forth trying to get a feel for the
conditions and the boat. I'm already regretting the choice to use the 110
because the boat isn't pointing very well and the full main has me over powered
at times, but there isn't enough time to change headsails and reef the main (one
of the down sides of having a rolled 150), so I'm going to be racing with what
I've got. I'm also finding that some of my solo sailing skills that are
used to more space around the boat aren't well suited to the close proximity of
racing. For example, on tacks I'm spending way too much time looking into
the boat trying to keep lines untangled and not enough time with my eyes focused
outside of the boat. Bottom line, I'm sailing real conservative (keeping
my distance from other boats) in order to make up for my inability to stay
focused outside of the boat.
Despite my lack of coordination, I manage to get a descend start, but I'm not pointing as well as the Ranger 20s and I always out point the Ranger 20s. The 110 and the full main are killing me. I've lowered the traveler to spill wind from the main sail, I've tightened the Cunningham to pull the draft in the main sail back forward in the high wind, I've tightened the outhaul to flatten the bottom third of the main, and I've tightened the boom vang and the backstay to adjust the main's twist and to flatten it. Despite all the tweaks I'm still over powered so I fall off a little trading pointing ability for speed.
I round the windward mark in a crowd, something I was hoping to avoid since I'm solo. The downwind leg this going to be challenging, not because of the current, but because I feel it's blowing too hard for me to go forward to set the pole so I can sail wing and wing. About now I'm really starting to hate my choice to go with the 110 instead of the 150. I need more sail area, but it's not going to happen. All around me folks are making choices about whether to fly their spinnaker or go wing and wing. South of me a Cal 20 has been dismasted, to the northwest three Ranger 20s fight to control their spinnakers when suddenly one of the three wipeouts. To reach the downwind mark I'm doing a combination of sailing really wide angles as if I were reaching, and sailing downwind wing and wing without a pole and wishing I had the 150 up. My technique is getting me to the next mark, but I'm watching those ahead of me extend their leads and those behind catch up and pass me.
My approach to the downwind mark has me getting there in a crowd. Not wanting to interfere with others who might be a bit more serious about the series' final results than me, I take the mark wide and leave lots of room for others. This final leg to the finish line is to windward. After having loosened everything for the downwind leg, I reach back and tighten the backstay, and move to the boom vang to adjust the twist in the main sail. The wind's velocity has diminished a little, so I don't feel as over powered as I did on the first windward leg. I've accepted that the boat isn't going to point well, so I focus on maximizing my speed to the finish. The hum from the keel cable confirms I'm going faster.
Looking back on my experience I've identified several things I can practice to become better at solo racing. Here's a few of my learnings:
Looking back at the race, I'd have to say I sailed pretty poorly. I was slow, sloppy, and felt uncoordinated most of the time, and yet, I also have a wonderful sense of accomplishment. It was my first race solo and I managed to get around the course without fouling anyone, or hurting the boat or me. I learned a lot and I know I'll race solo again.
| Cruising |

Our cruise is timed to coincide with the SYSCO fun race and cruise to St. Helens. Fleet 20 members who are also SYSCO members may elect to take advantage of the race start (this is not a serious race, no prizes are awarded nor is anyone recognized for passing Buoy "4", a red navigational aid south of Warrior Rock first). Non-SYSCO member don't need to worry about registering for the cruise/race with SYSCO, SYSCO will simply treat non-members as renegades and let them start in the last start as outlined in the Supplemental Sailing Instructions.
Everyone is on their own for dinner. Even if you can't bring your boat, still consider driving to the event.
Sunday morning is a depart-at-your-leisure kind of day. The motor back to Portland will take about 4.5 hrs. We've usually been able to sail back part of the distance, but it's not real dependable, so plan on motoring.
| Date | Destination | Nautical Miles |
Estimated Travel Time |
| 6 sa | St. Helens, City Dock | 17.4 | 4-6 hrs sailing |
| 7 su | Portland | 17.4 | 4 hrs motoring |
| Technical Tips |

Most
folks get by with just installing an eye on the front of the mast
which they then use for their whisker pole and spinnaker pole.
The first thing you notice with a single eye is that it seems too
low for the spinnaker and too high for the 150 Genoa. If you
plan on racing your boat, the best solution is to install a track on
the front of the mast. The track should be 1" wide. A
three to four foot long piece will be long enough (it's typically
available in pre-cut four foot lengths). The vertical center
of the track should be 42" from the bottom of the mast on an
old-style boat (1970-1985) and 39" for a new-style boat (1985-1995).
The track will have holes spaced in it that accept the pin on the
pole slide to hold the slide in place. A separate countersunk set of
holes are for the bolts that hold the track to the mast. You
will have to carefully drill and tap the holes in the mast for the
bolts that hold the track to the mast.
Tapping Holes
The
one inch wide track typically uses 1/4" x 20 Phillips flat-head
machine screws. Use a No. 7 or 13/64" drill bit followed by a
1/4" x 20 tap. Be mindful, that not all one inch track uses
the same size fasteners. My one inch Genoa car tracks use
7/32" fasteners.
As you turn the tap, it cuts into the metal and starts to lead into the hole. The metal chips flow into the flute spaces and will cause the tap to turn hard unless the chips are broken. The chips are broken and the pressure on the tap is released by reversing the tap direction every 1/4 or 1/2 turn.
Mounting the Track
Be careful not to over tighten the screws when mounting the track. The mast isn't that thick, so you risk stripping out the threads. Don't try to pre-drill and tap all the holes first. What's more likely to happen is that all the holes won't match up with the track and you'll have a mess on your hands. Instead drill and tap either the top or middle hole and install the track. Adjust the track so that it is vertical and drill and tap the bottom hole. Continue to alternate between each end of the track until all the fasteners are installed. Because dissimilar metals (aluminum mast and stainless steel screws) can create galvanic corrosion, I coat the threads of each fastener with an anti-seize compound like Loctite's Anti-Seize.
Finishing
the Ends of the Track
To prevent the pole slide from sliding off the ends, you can either install Track Stops, or round headed machine screws in the ends of the track. The latter method seems to be the most popular judging from the boats I've seen.
A Word about the Spinnaker Car
You've got a 50/50 chance of placing the spinnaker car on the track correctly. The correct orientation is for the ring to be down. Why? The spinnaker pole jaws should be facing up when in use so the guy can lift out of the jaws when releasing for a gybe. To prevent the pin of the car from interfering with the hook up, you want the pin on top so it is out of the way.
Finding the Parts
The
parts required for this project are available from multiple sources.
A good alternative to purchasing new t-track and a spinnaker car is
to check out the marine exchange or consignment store in your area.
I've had pretty good luck finding components at Columbia Marine
Exchange (Tomahawk Bay Moorage), and Sexton's (on the way to
Tomahawk), both of which are on Hayden Island (aka Janzten Beach).
If you don't want to be bothered with rounding up all the parts, you
can buy a complete kit from Catalina Direct.
This is a pretty simple project and well within the skills of most people. Because of all the drilling and taping into aluminum, you may want to consider having a vacuum handy to deal with all the mess the installation creates.
I really like having the track on the boat. It's given me more options with adjusting the height of either the spinnaker pole or whisker pole.
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The Fleet 20 newsletter is published online once a month. Articles are the opinions of the
authors and don't necessarily
represent the consensus of Fleet 20.