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"On The Bottle"
Originally
we set out to bolt a mild plate system on our little 406, but as everyone
knows, there’s no such thing as a simple bolt-on.
We quickly found out that the twin spray bars on our Nitrous Express
Gemini Twin Stage 6 system would not work on top of the Brodix HV-1002.
The internal cloverleaf design shape impaired the spray pattern from reaching
the middle two cylinders. We were
faced with 3 possible solutions. Grind the intake manifold material away,
abort the nitrous idea all together, or send the intake to Nitrous Express for
internal placement of the spray bars.
We
decided to have the intake manifold plumbed to accept a 50-300 HP Nitrous
Express Conventional
Stage 6 kit. The manifold was
sent to NX for plumbing and spray pattern validation testing. The low
placement of the spray bars will give a pretty direct hit into the cylinder
head intake ports..
When
the manifold returned we were able to plumb the solenoids directly to the
manifold without any additional line extensions.
Mounting the solenoids this close proved to provide us with a
sledge-hammer like hit when the system was activated.
We
also fabricated a dedicated fuel system for the Nitrous system.
It consists of a 1- gallon fuel cell with a Mallory 140 pump and a
Mallory return-style regulator. A
–08 line from the tank sump to an in-line fuel filter, then on to the
regulator. At the regulator, the
bypass line returns to the sump and the –06 line feeds the fuel solenoid.
The feed to the fuel also incorporates a fuel pressure safety shut-off
and a fuel pressure gauge.
Here's the engine all plumbed with
the new nitrous system. It's not looking like a simple small-block
anymore
The
10 pound bottle is mounted in the driver’s side of the trunk.
It is equipped with a heater, pressure transducer, and a Nitrous pressure
gauge. The -04 nitrous feed line is a new type that claims
it has better flow and insulating properties
than the steel braided hose.
The
main control panel is fabricated from an old first-aid box.
All connections are soldered and heat shrunk.
The heater, nitrous solenoids, and dedicated fuel pump are all operated
by relays. The system can be
activated solely by the WOT switch but there are overrides that let you
activate it by means of a steering wheel button or a specific RPM parameter.
There are several fail-safe circuits built into the system.
The WOT switch limits activation at wide-open throttle only.
The fuel pressure safety switch will not allow the system to be
activated without a minimum fuel pressure.
The RPM window switch prevents activation until the desired RPM
parameter is reached. The window
switch also deactivates the system at the time the upper RPM parameter is met.
Maiden Voyage
We installed jetting for a conservative 100 HP squirt,
changed the plugs, filled the nitrous fuel cell with VP-C16
(116 octane), and pulled 5 degrees of timing out.
Once at the track, we flowed the fuel solenoid and
adjusted the pressure. We then
warmed the engine up. Now was the
time to pre-test the nitrous system. With
the bottle warmed and nitrous pressure at 1000 psi, we brought the RPM’s to
3000 and tapped the nitrous button on the steering wheel.
Instantaneously, the engine spun to
6500. We decided to make the
first pass by using the button on the steering wheel to activate the system.
First Pass Results
The car launch hard as usual and I hit the nitrous as
soon as the chassis settled. Oh boy!!!!!!!
It hit like a sledge-hammer and took off.
I tried to shift at 6800 but ended up going to 7400 both gears.
The rate at which the rpm’s climbed was phenomenal.
The nitrous shut-off at the 1000’ mark because of the window switch,
which had a 7400 pill in it.
The
car would of ran in the mid 10.2's on the motor but with a conservative
100 HP shot, the
3470 lbs small-block powered 67 Camaro ran a 9.77 @ 137
with the nitrous shutting off at the top of each gear and only being
applied from 60’ to the 1000’ mark. The first record of data
indicates that we could benefit from taller tire to replace our current
28" x 10.5", or a rear gear change. The 100 HP squirt of
nitrous added a solid 500 rpm to the package and we're gonna need to bring
that down a tad. The ATI 8" converter that usually flashes to
5500, went straight to 6500 (OUCH!) when we hit the nitrous right off
the launch on our 2nd run.
Initial Conclusions:
We won't be adding any more HP until we get the
combination to fully utilize the 100 shot. Lots of tuning
techniques to learn. Accurate spark plug reading is essential!
Second nitrous
test session: We added a large resolution fuel pressure gauge and solid state DC voltage
regulator to accurate control steady state 13.6 DC voltage to the dedicated nitrous
fuel pump. The DC voltage regulating device work flawlessly and held
fuel pressure absolutely stable under all voltage load conditions. The
car ran 9.80's @ 137.4 with a very conservative tune up on the 100 HP jets in very hot
weather spinning the tires. Our non-nitrous converter is hanging in
there as long as we wait until it flashes before applying the nitrous hit.
The Digi-Set timer delay relay provides us with precision system activation
timing options. This aids in activating the nitrous just after the
converter flashes. We could definitely benefit from a tighter converter
(a.k.a. nitrous converter). In the mean time we're
gonna try and stuff a taller tire under the car. That should help with
the excessive rpm's that we're currently experiencing.
We were unsuccessful in trying to fit the taller
29.5" tire under the car. Though there was no interference in
its static state, the 1/2" of clearance was not going to be enough once
the tire starts growing at 137 MPH plus. We decided to swap out the 4.33
rear gears for a set of 4.11"s. 
During
the disassembly process we found one of our Strange Engineering 30 spline Pro
Race axles was severely twisted
.
The axle has several fractures was on the verge of breaking. The new
4.11 gear, like the old 4.33's, is a Richmond Pro Gear. It's fastened to
the Strange Engineering 30 spline lightened spool using ARP ring gear bolt
hardware. The 12 bolt unit uses all Timken bearings and a Mark Williams
carrier bearing support. A new axle was acquired from Strange
Engineering. The twisted axle
(pictures) is being returned for engineering
evaluation.
mailto:ccrt-racing@comcast.net
Home
Originally
we set out to bolt a mild plate system on our little 406, but as everyone
knows, there’s no such thing as a simple bolt-on.
We quickly found out that the twin spray bars on our Nitrous Express
Gemini Twin Stage 6 system would not work on top of the Brodix HV-1002.
The internal cloverleaf design shape impaired the spray pattern from reaching
the middle two cylinders. We were
faced with 3 possible solutions. Grind the intake manifold material away,
abort the nitrous idea all together, or send the intake to Nitrous Express for
internal placement of the spray bars.
We
decided to have the intake manifold plumbed to accept a 50-300 HP Nitrous
Express Conventional
Stage 6 kit. The manifold was
sent to NX for plumbing and spray pattern validation testing. The low
placement of the spray bars will give a pretty direct hit into the cylinder
head intake ports..
When
the manifold returned we were able to plumb the solenoids directly to the
manifold without any additional line extensions.
Mounting the solenoids this close proved to provide us with a
sledge-hammer like hit when the system was activated. 
We
also fabricated a dedicated fuel system for the Nitrous system.
It consists of a 1- gallon fuel cell with a Mallory 140 pump and a
Mallory return-style regulator. A
–08 line from the tank sump to an in-line fuel filter, then on to the
regulator. At the regulator, the
bypass line returns to the sump and the –06 line feeds the fuel solenoid.
The feed to the fuel also incorporates a fuel pressure safety shut-off
and a fuel pressure gauge.
The
10 pound bottle is mounted in the driver’s side of the trunk.
It is equipped with a heater, pressure transducer, and a Nitrous pressure
gauge. The -04 nitrous feed line is a new type that claims
it has better flow and insulating properties
than the steel braided hose. 
The
main control panel is fabricated from an old first-aid box.
All connections are soldered and heat shrunk.
The heater, nitrous solenoids, and dedicated fuel pump are all operated
by relays. The system can be
activated solely by the WOT switch but there are overrides that let you
activate it by means of a steering wheel button or a specific RPM parameter.
There are several fail-safe circuits built into the system.
The WOT switch limits activation at wide-open throttle only.
The fuel pressure safety switch will not allow the system to be
activated without a minimum fuel pressure.
The RPM window switch prevents activation until the desired RPM
parameter is reached. The window
switch also deactivates the system at the time the upper RPM parameter is met.
