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| another cook's tour In August 2002 went to San Francisco to fulfill one of my dreams. To be on the inside of some of the countries great restaurant kitchens and I managed to get into three right here in S.F. Now, to get in takes a little luck, connections and the willingness to forget who you are and what you know, for the time being. Because you enter as the new guy, the apprentice, the kitchen helper and nothing more. Go with that attitude and you do well. Gary Danko was my first stage and it was a great experience. I was there for five days and got work on every station. The chefs on each station are just awesome cooks on their own, better yet, each of them proudly showed my some tricks here and there. As a team they are just hard to beat, consistently putting out some of the city's finest food, seven nights a week to a sold out restaurant. (book two month in advance) |
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| After Gary Danko I went on to Masa's, a legendary restaurant, where the first American Chef to beat an Iron Chef cooks. Chef Ron Siegel is hands on behind the line and no doubt one of the countries finest chef's. At Masa's I saw seafood previously not known in my repertoire, some Japanese live clams called Hokkigai, pounded alive like Conch, seasoned, floured and sautéed briefly, served atop micro greens with a shaved baby fennel and Nicoise olive salad, topped with brown butter, lemon and capers. Nice stuff... Another San Francisco thing is the way Prime Rib is served in many upscale places and here at Masa's. Totally separated into the three main muscles, denuded and cut into 3 - 6oz portions as needed, this cut is most delicious and tender as can be, of course, everybody worth their salt is using Niman Ranch product. Desserts at Masa's are special, Pastry Chef Keith created what might be the quintessential San Fran Dessert. A warm Sourdough - Chocolate Cake with molten center...it was excellent. Last but not least I had a chance to spend some time at the Campton Place Restaurant. Chef Laurent Manrique has created a magnificent menu. You want to try it all and the way to go is the tasting menu. He was absent (and has recently left to open his own place) when I was there, cooking on a cruise ship for a week. The tough life of a celebrity chef... Sous Chef Peter took me under his wings and I was given the tour of the kitchens, introduced and put to work in Garde Manger. Standout in this kitchen is the excellent treatment of Foie Gras. Served chilled, four ways and tableside tops this city's infatuation with the force-fed Duck organ. I got to taste them all and didn't need dinner afterwards. Highlight of one night was a visit from Chronicles Food Critic Michael Bauer. The excitement in the kitchen went from medium to high, staff was called in (and showed up in record time) Sous Chef Peter double- checked everything and had a good handle on things. Michael Bauer had a good experience that night...and so did I. |
