Services
- Faux Finishing
- Stenciling
- Faux Wood Grains
- Faux Painted Marble
- Color Consultations
- Cabinet Treatments
- Hand-Finished Ceiling Medallions
- Commercial
Projects
Contact Art & Edifice
or call (832) 425 - 2744
Fees and FAQs
About Us
Latest Projects
Tips and How-To
Paint Tips from Art & Edifice
1) Paint disposal
Most municipalities prohibit the disposal of liquid paints in your weekly trash pickup, even if it is low VOC water-based latex. The best and safest way to get rid of old water-based paint is to let it dry/solidify in the can and then you can usually toss it in the trash (check with your town to be sure). The quickest way to solidify the paint - kitty litter! Stir some into the unused paint, leave the lid off, and the kitty litter will absorb the water. Once the paint is hardened, you can toss away! Of course, the most eco-conscious thing to do is use the paint on a wall or give it to someone who will. Sometimes school art programs or a neighbor can find a use for good colors. For OIL based paint, check with your city. Do not throw oil based paint into the trash.2) Touchup paint storage
This is my personal
touch that I like to leave with
clients after faux or painting jobs. If you only have a little bit of
paint
left (half a can or less) and you want to store it for later touchups,
here's a
way to help it keep for years! Pour the paint into a glass container (I
like
quart or pint Mason jars). Use the right size container so you have
little or
no airspace at the top of the jar. Air exposure, light, and temperature
changes
or extremes are what ruin paint. If you're using a Mason jar, lay a
small piece
of plastic wrap over the opening, then put the lid on and tighten well.
Store
your paint in a dark place that doesn't have any wild temperature
changes.
Never let it freeze (preferably, never let it go below 50 degrees). A
warm
basement or a shelf in the garage might work well. I've seen paint keep
for
over a decade like this. Don't worry if the dark pigment floats to the
top of
the jar. When you need to do touchups, just give the jar a minute of
vigorous
shaking before opening. If you have more than half a gallon left over,
some
folks suggest storing the can upside down to prevent air getting in
around the
lid. This is worth trying, but you'll eventually have some rusting on
the
inside of the can because there's ALREADY air in there. But storing
upside down
probably can't hurt, even if it doesn't help.
3) Concrete floors, the bane of touchup paint!
I harp on my clients
and
friends, NEVER store your paint cans or jars on a concrete floor. This
means
the basement floor (even if it has vinyl flooring on top!), the garage
floor,
or any other floor that gets cold in winter. The paint solids will fall
to the
bottom of the can and eventually solidify into a hard lump from the
temperature
extremes. I've seen this happen in less than a year with stored paint.
You can
keep it on a shelf about 6 inches above the floor, just don't store it
ON the
floor.
Happy
painting and don't make me send the paint police after you!
Michel
Owner/Artisan,
Art
& Edifice
7 Steps to Beautifully Painted Flea-Market Finds
Even the designers on TV are doing it; finding great furnishing at flea-markets, charity shops, and yard sales. Often, a wonderful piece of furniture can be had for mere dollars, especially if its finish is in desperate need of some TLC. Unfortunately, the design shows on TV don’t show you all the proper steps for refreshing your finds. Take the time to do it right, and your “new” furniture will have friends wondering where you shop!1. Safety first: Before you disturb any painted surface, you should think about the possibility of lead. Lead paint additives were phased out in the 1970’s and 80’s. If you suspect lead is present in any paint, you can find information about safety precautions and testing at www.epa.gov/lead, or by calling the National Lead Information Center at 1-800-424-LEAD. Even with newer surfaces, I find that a dust mask is always in order when sanding. Your lungs will thank you.
2. Sanding: Not all pieces will require sanding before repainting. My mantra is to leave well enough alone when dealing with old paint surfaces. If, however, the paint is chipped, peeling, crackling, or has other problems, you might not be able to avoid the sandpaper. A small electric hand sander is my best friend for these situations. A very light sanding (really just scuffing) can help your new paint adhere to old oil paint or a glossy surface.
3. Prep, prep, prep: The number one reason for paint failures is incorrect preparation. Time spent on prep will ensure you get a good result in the end. Make sure the surface is completely clean and dust free before you ever get the paint out of the can. If you have sanded the surface, remove dust with a tack cloth. This is a small piece of cheesecloth soaked in wax, available at your local home improvement store in the paint section. They cost around one dollar…get several to keep on hand for the next project! If you can’t find one, several thorough passes with a damp cloth followed by another pass with a dusting cloth can do the job. Most importantly, don’t rush your prep work.
4. Taping: Carefully tape off any areas you don’t want painted, and burnish the tape edges down once, firmly, with a fingernail. If you think you might have to leave the tape on for more than a day or so, use a lower adhesion tape made for delicate surfaces.
5. Priming: If the piece is unpainted, consider a coat of primer before you paint. There are excellent primers specifically made for stone and metal. Tell your paint store rep what you’re painting and follow her advice. Use a good latex or oil-based primer for wood surfaces. Some wood grains (pine or cheaper grades of oak, for example) may “rise” after a first coat of latex, and priming improves the chances that you can avoid this. The raised grain will feel rough. If this happens, you’ll need to sand the grain down lightly and prime again. Don’t worry; it’s not as bad as it sounds when you know what happened!
6. Painting: Finally, time to paint! Use a good quality paint brush. Be careful not to overload your brush with paint and put it on too thickly. This is a common mistake. Painting in thick layers can lead to ugly drips, cracks, or drying delays. Instead, paint in thin coats, allowing time for each coat to dry completely before recoating. This will give you a beautiful and strong surface.
7. Curing: Follow the instructions on your paint can to make sure your new furniture is safely cured before you begin to use it or place objects on top of it. Paints, latex in particular, can feel dry well before they really are. When in doubt, I like to wait 24-48 hours before I place my newly painted flea-market beauties into service.
Now, enjoy your new furnishings. Use them well and never fear; if they get chipped or you tire of the color, you know how to fix it!
About the author:
© 2005 Michel Laurine. Michel Laurine is a faux finisher and decorative painter who enjoys sharing her love of color and helping clients personalize their homes.
Circulated by Article Emporium
(832) 425 - 2744
Contact Art & Edifice via email