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---Chapter 9: We Cross the Cascade Mountains and
Are Lost for Eleven Days---
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My husband and Mrs. Welch's three sons were to drive the stock. After some deliberation it was decided that my brother, Lemuel, should accompany them. T.hat decided my case. I, too, would accompany them. To this there was a strong remonstrance but my will was not to be swayed in that matter. Mother wept but I told them of my fears concerning their frail boats to stem the current of that raging river, for we had seen the Celilo Falls. Father and my husband had gone as far as the Cascade Falls. After some consideration of the matter she finally became more reconciled. Soon as all the arrangements were completed we gathered the stock, counted them, and started out on our perilous journey. This was on the first day of October, 1845.
I forgot to mention that we were to be assisted by one of father's hired men, the same Marion Poe who had traveled with us from the first day of our journey. On the day of our departure I placed my new Spanish saddle that was bought for me in St Louis, on my strong and trusty young nag, and, with parting tears and good-byes, we dared the wilderness and the desert
We were substantially provided with food as a good horse was loaded with all necessary provisions, but on the second day out from The Dalles Poe was left to bring the pack horse while we were rounding the stock in the direction of our destination and agan he met a band of straggling Indians. As he attempted to talk to them they deliberately led the pack horse into ambush and half an hour later .we returned from the various courses that had called us away and found Poe riding dejectedly along, with nothing to prevent us .from starving. We would have returned to The Dalles but the others were already two days journey down the river and we were not prepared to replenish the stores. So it was left us to attempt the mountains without food, except beef.
After another day or two we heaVd loud hallowing behind us. The sounds were not such as to cause alarm and soon it was seen to come from a party of five young men and one old trapper. These parties were not cumbered with baggage and thought to go on ahead and select camping places and kill game. Learning of our loss the Smith boys kindly divided stores as far as we would permit them, giving me nineteen biscuits and a small rasher of bacon. A small portion of tea and sugar was tied on my saddle so we had a comfortable supper.
The traveling was slow and toilsome. Heavy fall rains were coming on and the steep slopes were almost impassible for man and beast. On the sixth day we became entangled in a thicket of vine-maples and were compelled to turn back to our camping place of the previous night. Next day we found it impossible to proceed through the dense growth of Mountain Laurel. The cattle ate freely of this shrub and were so poisoned that we dared not eat the meat.
The old gentleman, Mr. Carson, had been chosen guide and he was misled by the Indian trails that led to the~berry patches far up on the slopes of Mount Hood. So we had been making little progress toward the place of our destination. One morning we awoke in a blinding snowstorm. We toiled along the whole day through without seeing a tree or a spear of grass. Our course seemed to be up a gradual steep slope. As night was coming on it seemed we must all perish, but weak, faint and starving we went on. The stronger men now led the way and left relays to shout back so that we might follow them. My husband and I were the last in the line. The strongest horses had given out before noon and we were compelled to walk and lead our riding nags.
The loose stock became so weak and discouraged that we left them altogether, but the poor lost creatures followed along for most of the afternoon. Our situation was each moment becoming more desperate. The only hope of our lives lay in find-Ing shelter and wood for a fire. The few pieces of bed clothing that-were tied on our saddles were wet and our garments were dripping wet through and through with the snow that had fallen on us all day long and had melted and thoroughly drenched every garment that we wore. As the evening light Illumined the receding storm clouds we realized our hazardous situation as never before and we turned our course down the mountainside. Fortunately for us there ware no shadows and the eternal snows cast a white light that was sufficient to guide our feet, even after the day had drawn to a close. We were now crossing the line from the eternal snows into that newly fallen and, as our weary feet sank into the sand that underlay the new snow, hope deserted us, yet on and on we went. At a few minutes before 10:00 o'clock that night we were walking on firmer ground, the wet snow being about a foot deep. I was so faint and weak that I could scarcely put one foot before the other and was dragged along by my husband. One man was leading a fine young horse of which he had taken great care, and leading the animal near my side insisted that I ride. My husband lifted me on the horse but not one step would the poor beast take although I weighed less than eighty pounds at that time. The men then placed my brother on the horse's back but with the same result. My husband was now leading me along and lifted me over the obstructions of the path. We were of course the last in the line of relays and the welcome sound of "we have found wood," was wafted to our ears. This give us a renewed energy and by an almost super-human effort we at last reached the assembled group. No sign of a fire was to be seen and most of the men and all the boys were shedding tears. We were told that not a man could be found whose hands had strength to fire a gun, and not a dry thread of clothing for kindling. All were panic stricken and all hope seemed abandoned.
My husband had been exerting all his power in assisting me along and as soon as he realized the situation he seized the gun and fired it into the little bunch of kindling the men had prepared, but no fire resulted. He now made every man present haul off his coat and in the inner lining of Mr. J. Moore's coat a small piece of dry quilted lining was found. This was placed in a handful of whittlings, and as the gun was reloaded all realized that upon that charge depended our lives. With almost super-human effort Mr. Walden succeeded in firing the gun and in an instant the flames burst forth. A great shout of thanksgiving burst forth and each poor suffering traveler crowded as near as possible to the welcome fire.
I was so exhausted and discouraged that I sat down on a hummock and was perfectly indifferent as to the result. But soon as there was sufficient warmth my husband led me to the fire side. No sooner had the warmth penetrated my wet and freezing garments than such excruiciating pains seized me that I was wild with pain and could not forbear the scream that rent the air on that wild mountain. There was nothing to be done and I had to endure this suffering until the clothing on my body was dry and the chill of frost drawn out of my limbs.
My saddle horse was the only animal that was brought into the camp and soon my bedding was spread up to dry, and while the great pitch pine trees were consumed with fire the group of weary travelers were soon fast asleep. Mr. Walden presented me with a biscuit, one that he-had carried since our morning meal, fearing that some such extremity might overtake us. The morsel of food renewed my strength and as the warm woolen blankets were wrapped snugly around me I reclined near the great heap of glowing logs and felt that God in his great mercy would yet guide us safely into the land of our adoption. We slept soundly and awoke to find the sky cloudless,, clear and aglow with the light; of the morning sun. The only hope of our lives now lay in the men finding the cattle that one might be used for food, as not a morsel now remained of any sort and some of us had been stinted for more than a week.
All arose and, after due deliberation, it was decided that I should remain with the two boys, my brother Lemuel, and Mrs. Welch's son. All the others were to go in quest of the stock. We watched the weary procession as they disappeared over the distant slope and the boys would have given up to tears, but that hope which precludes despair was ever present in my heart and, after obeying the instruction to "Keep a good fire and smoke going, as it may prove a guide to our return," I proposed that we go to the summit of a near ridge and look beyond and in the direction of our anticipated home. In our wanderings I became separated from the boys.
My attention was wholly devoted to the majestic hue of Mount Hood as seen from that high Southern .slope. We were far above the timber line and the prospect was great. We were at the edge of vast snow fields and looking upward towards the summit I saw an unusually black looking spot, and after clambering up many hundreds of feet I came upon what seemed to be an extinct crater, and near what seemed to me to be the summit of a mountain. I anxiously hoped to see smoke issue therefrom. I sat down, lost in thought and admiration of the beautiful and wonderful view that opened before my eyes.
The sky was cloudless. The storms of the previous day had so cleared the air of dust and impurities that my horizon was boundless, and this, my first, prospect of everlasting green forests and their wonderful vividness, green on all the near approaches and changing with wonderful blend from green to etheral blue, and on the distant margin rested the shade of blue, so intense, so indescribably beautiful that no power of words can express the wonderful panorama of beauty with which my soul was entranced. Seated on eternal snow, looking "from over these mountains and hills, across wide valleys into dark glens, above the roar of wind or of water, I was lost in infinity.
Time speeded by without my conscious measurement. It was now about 12:00 o'clock in the day. The decent proved long and tedious. I went in search of the boys and found them busily engaged rolling boulders down the mountainside to hear the crash of their descent and the thud of their landing in the depths of some forested canyon far beneath our feet. By persuasion I convinced them of the dangers of their amusement, and we walked in various directions viewing the curious and wonderful things about us. At some distance from us we saw a curiously colored copse and on approaching nearer we found it to be a dense growth of small green bushes loaded with masses of small purplish berries growing on slender twigs. The fruit was odorous and of a tempting look. I feared to eat them although they were as fragrant as ripe apples, but, venturing a taste, I found them delicious. I plucked some branches and carried them to our camp fire and tested them again and again until I decided they were harmless. The boys and I ate freely of them. Our hunger and thirst was appeased and we realized the nutritious effect. We now carried and laid by the campfire a fine stock of the berries to await the return of the weary and starring men folks, should they be so fortunate as to reach us when nightfall should overtake us.
Just before sunset the men and beasts were seen crossing a distant ridge. Instinct seemed to have directed the weary, chilled beasts to climb a distant ridge where they found shelter under a towering cliff. The men found them huddled together. The horses and cattle were in one group apparently afraid to venture out in the snow. The grand rock roof and sandy floor protected them from cold and storm, and but for the tinkle of their bells they might have perished. As it was they had been quite comfortable for the night. Not far from our camp was some short grass and leafy shrubs on which they could browse. Our saddles, budgets, and bed-clothing had rested safely on the backs of our weary beasts.
Early next morning we resumed our journey, having butchered a beef which we could not eat on account of the poisoned laurel. One of the men had named the fruit which we produced, huckleberries, and from these we made our only breakfast food. My own party had been fourteen days with only nine hard-tack biscuits and four small slices of bacon. The Smith boys and all the others in the crowd were also about out of food, and it was decided to make forced marches in the direction of Oregon City, which, from this treeless height, we judged to be nearly West of us.
We kept the stock with us until we reached the grass lands at the head of Sandy River. Each one then decided to go in quest of food as the men were becoming desperate and had lost all fear of wild beasts so that even the sight of a grizzly bear would not have frightened us. Our horses were now so weak that my husband could not ride any one of them only a few rods at a time. My case now developed the last stages of starvation.
Just after dark we reached the river where it was now quite a broad stream, rolling and tumbling .over high boulders. I tried to urge my pet riding nag into the water but it was no use. On the opposite bank we saw a small fire burning and rightfully judged it to be some lagging member of our advanced party. My husband desired to cross, hoping to find something for our starving nags to eat.
After awhile we heard the sound of a human voice. It proved to be Mr. Alien Miner, a young man who had left the party early in the morning and had walked all day in advance of us. He had crossed the river in daylight. He called our horses by name and at this they plunged into the raging stream. My saddle girth broke and I had to hold by the mane and balance myself as Dolly would swim the deep channels,
mount the rugged rocks or plunge over the sand bars, but, by the mercy of God, husband and I found ourselves safely across. Alien had a bright fire to welcome us and had killed a bird which he had broiled, and this he shared with us.
We rested until daybreak. The horses had lain all night by the fire and we had great difficulty in getting them up by daybreak. Alien Miner now took the two boys, Mrs. Welch's son and my brother, Lemuel, and forged ahead in search of food. Husband and I went on as fast as our weary limbs would carry us. Most of the party reached the home of Peter Hatch about 2:00 o'clock on that afternoon. They were given some food and were put to bed. Husband and I came in sight of their lights, for Mrs. Hatch kept a tallow candle burning in the window and outside of the house a good fire of logs that we might be guided to their place.
I now took off my blanket dress and put on my spick and span new dress and corded sun-bonnet which I had carried safely on my saddle, and thus arrayed, by my husband's help, I staggered into the door. Mrs. Hatch caught me in her arms and her first words were, "Why dear woman, I supposed your clothing had been torn off your body long ago."
We were seated by the fire. She bathed our weary limbs, and after we had rested a few moments, seeing pur starved, wan look, she apologized for having but one potato baked with salt and a little butter for each. She then entertained us with pleasant conversation and put more potatoes to bake. In less than an hour's time we were served with baked potatoes, meat, butter, and a small slice of bread. We then retired for the night.
"' We awoke early with ravenous appetites. Mrs. Hatch was aware of this, and, knowing the danger of our condition had wisely stinted our meals. Our breakfast was more substantial. They had beef of excellent quality and on this day we were given four meals, and each one recovered from this nineteen days of want with no serious after effects.
My husband and the others were equally blest but they did not rest contentedly as all our prospects for making a home in the newly settled region was in finding our poor stock and teams. As soon as they were able to go on the trail a good supply of food was prepared and returned to the stock and were blest in finding every one of the animals in better condition and grazing in a friendly herd, horses, oxen and stock cattle. Not a hoof was missing and within a week's time we were surprised to see them all brought safely to the end of our journey.
Mrs. Peter Hatch continued to supervise our necessities and in all the world there could not be found a woman more capable and more willing to make her fellow-beings happy and comfortable. Later I shall give a short tribute to this noble lady.
A few days rest restored the strength and vitality to our weary bodies and the first thought was to secure employment for the winter. The pasturage was free and we left the poor animals to recuperate for winter while we prepared to work for Dr. McLaughlin at his saw mill on the Taualatln river. After two months work we learned that we were to receive nothing for our work that fall and we returned to Oregon City where we learned that father, mother, and all our friends with whom we had parted at The Dalles, were safely established in good houses at the old foundry works on the Willamette river. Father came right up to see us and took the stock home with him. Mr. Walden rented rooms in Orgeon City and we remained there all winter. I had for near neighbor, Mrs. J. Welch who afterwards moved to Astoria and remained there a respected lady and the mother of a noble family.
The environs of our new home, surrounded by giant fir trees, the healthful sea breezes, the strange sights and sounds were sources of continual thought. The long distance that sap-arated us from our old home in the Mississippi valley, precluded any form of home sickness and our united efforts were wholly set upon the building of a home.
As yet we had seen nothing of the land claims which had been the lure of our most sanguine hopes, but the first effort of our lives was wholly devoted to the acquirement of the necessities of life.
Of our winter in Oregon City and the subsequent experiences, I will tell you in the next chapter.