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---Chapter 8: Doctor Whitman and the
Grande Ronde Valley---
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When we reached Powder River we were surprised by seeing a small party of horsemen approaching. These proved to be Doctor Whitman and a party of friendly Nez Perce Indians who were coming to warn us of the dangers of the unfriendly Indians that threatened our lives should we attempt to drive unguarded through their lands.
Doctor Whitman had been told by friendly Indians that Indian spies had already reported our approach, so he and a select few had made a night ride in behalf of our safety, coming from the Snake River Mission, near where Lewiston, Idaho, now stands, down the Orande Ronde river and across the Powder River Mountains. They knew that large numbers of Indians were advancing across the Blue Mountains to the attack. Doctor Whitman insisted upon a strict military camp and said we were subject to attack at any time. I have not yet told you of the birth of my unfortunate little brother at the marshes on the Malheur river. Father and ourselves were left and the train went on. He said it were better for a few to perish than that aH should go down. Dear mother was very critically ill tor the most of the next day, and we did not attempt to move her. Just before sunset of the second day we espied the wagons of another train coming toward us. Father rode out to meet them and found a royal welcome from the weary travelers who were glad to camp with us. A doctor in their party was called in to see mother. He said that nothing more was necessary than had been done. A night's rest and we were out by 4:00 o'clock the next morning to overtake the train, and by noon the next day the two companies were united. This occurred a few days previous to the arrival of Doctor Whitman. Thus you see, we were an unusually large company and the Doctor declared that a marked providence in our favor, as we were the first train of the year, and he considered the road that lay before us the most dangerous of the entire journey, as he described the mountainous character of the road that lay between us and the Willamette valley.
The Doctor piloted us along the Powder river and over a low range of mountains into the Orande Ronde valley. This valley we approached by a long winding canyon. The friendly Indians rode in advance and their countenances betrayed their fear of enemies. Night was approaching, but we were instructed to drive until we could camp in the open or level country, and by forced driving we reached the Grande Ronde valley by 4:00 o* clock. Doctor Whitman awaited the return of the Indians that he had sent out to spy the road ahead, and much sooner than he had anticipated they returned, riding at full speed, to tell the Doctor that the Walla Wallas were approaching and that all the warriors were prepared for an immediate attack. The camp was established, about a mile, I should say, from the mouth of the canyon, and every precaution taken. The children were instructed to remain hidden on the side of the wagons opposite that which would receive the discharge of their firearms. No supper was cooked. The men were fully armed and every precaution taken. The wiley Cayuse chief gave the best suggestions in some important particulars.
Our preparations were scarcely completed when the Indians began to arrive, sauntering up in groups, on foot, and in roving bands, mounted on ponies. They were, of course, unconscious of our forewarning and came to reconnoiter and were perfectly non-plussed when they saw our surroundings. Doctor Whitman assumed command, or rather his cool quick thought-edness held the attention of all. He walked out a few steps and extended his hand. The chief at first hesitated, then, after a moment's consultation with his warriors he assumed a friendly guise and shook hands with the Doctor, pretending great friendship for all his pale face brothers, went on a tour of inspection around the camp. That was a signal for all the others to follow suit and our camp was carefully inspected by each group. Doctor Whitman now went outside the circle of wagons and stood facing the two Indian chiefs. After a few moments of sullen silence one of the chiefs said something about Doctor Whitman's business with the train, and at last spoke in broken English. 'How you get here?" Then Doctor Whitman began speaking in the most eloquent terms of the power of the government and of the harmless intentions of the company. The Indian then took the stand as a lecturer and defied all settlers and all authority of government.
When the discourse was ended an Indian stepped out to the front between the great body of Indians and the now seeming handful of white people and filled a pipe with finely cut tobacco. When this was done the chief made signals for all to be seated and, as the circles were formed, the chief and twelve of his mob went to the inner part of the circle and, with the chief as a center, the twelve seated around him. He took the pipe and smoked a whiff then passed the pipe to the next and thus around until each had smoked. The pipe was then passed to the oldest white man present and on around until each had smoked a whiff. When this was over the Indians arose fcs to go, but Whitman saw the treachery and bade the chief stand in his tracks. Most of our people were surprised but some others had understood the situation and it was deemed our only hope of life to hold the chief prisoner. The wisdom of this was soon apparent as all that night bands of warriors kept coming. We could hear their grants of disappointment as they learned that their plans were interrupted.
My husband and two or three others were appointed to keep the chief a prisoner. Doctor Whitman knew by their signals and conduct that the peace pipe was only to throw the men off guard and make a night attack more easy of complete destruction. But during this time the Indians knew nothing of his instructions and those on guard were not armed but each had a trusty attendant ready to hand the gun loaded and ready for execution should one signal for attack be given.
The young warriors were fully armed with guns, swords, quivers and with bows slung across their shoulders stood in moody silence and watched the leader like birds of prey watch the movements of their intended victim, while straggling insolent braves began to march around the camps where an attempt was now being made to cook some food for the hungry children and tired, weary, and now thoroughly aroused parents. It was evident that the warriors were only awaiting an opportunity to make their attack. By a preconcerted movement the stragglers began taking bread from the reflectors. Doctor Whitman stood out now in full view and the warriors looked somewhat non-plussed.
Just at dusk the chief and twelve painted warriors in full arms came up and seated themselves near the corral. I have said that the two or three lead companies of that year were massed in one at about the time of Doctor Whitman's arrival, so that now our train numbered ninety wagons and over two hundred men, each of whom could fire two or three charges without stopping to reload, as that took some time with the old fashioned muzzle loading guns. At that last moment of the hostile Indians Doctor Whitman, as commander, now quietly ordered every man to his proper position, facing the outer world, backs to the wagons, the women and children to remain concealed in the wagons as I have described. Within a few moments time these preparations were all completed and the Walla Walla chief's look changed from haughty defiance to one of deep distrust.
An abundance of light fuel had been placed within the corral and the fires were slightly replenished from time to time that the dim light of the coals might reveal the approach of an enemy from the outer darkness.
Ere the twilight faded, and as it was apparent that great numbers of Indians were gathering within range, Dr. Whitman began to talk to the chief of the Walla Walla's. The chief made no reply but shook his head defiantly. The chief of the Cayuses now spoke vehemently in the style of true Indian eloquence. The Doctor spoke again and again, and the chief replied, still defying us to go on. Then Doctor Whitman rose to almost super-human heighth and, in a stern voice, told them in emphatic terms that the Great Father of the "Bostons" would send men to defend these travelers, and that ship loads of soldiers and guns would arrive to kill all the Indians who molested his people on their way to the distant valley. The Cay-use chief then arose and pledged himself and his warriors to aid the Great Father. The Walla Walla chief then arose and, slowly, but in great solemnity of style of manner, took bow and quiver, laid them on the ground, and, after he was seated, each of his warriors in turn followed his movement, so that at the close of the performance the chief was in the center of the ring and around him were the twelve quivers of arrows and the bows outside. These were the twelve disarmed warriors. The chief then produced a long pipe and himself filled it with Indian tobacco, and, after smoking a few whiffs, passed It to the oldest man present and from him to the next, and so on in much the same manner as the Cayuse chief had done earlier in the evening. During this time there was a solemn silence, but as soon as this was done the chief addressed himself to the Doctor, saying that we need have no fear, and that his young men were like the "Boston" young men. They would sometimes steal something, but he would keep a watch over their conduct and return whatever they stole.
By this time signal lights were gleaming from hundreds of places on the mountains around and it was evident that one signal from the chief would bring the merciless horde upon us, so it was decided that the chief should not return until morning, consequently every gun was leveled at those Indians grouped near our camp. The chief had pretended the friendship to throw us off our guard and was defiant so he demanded the body of my baby brother to take with him to their camp. Seeing that trouble was imminent Doctor Whitman, by a quick movement, placed him in range of a rifle and commanded my husband to hold the chief at the point of the gun until further orders. The Indian had moved to the front of the wagon when he made the demand and was now seated on the whiffletree. Mr. Walden stood at the end of the wagon tongue and leveled his gun as directed. The chief made an attempt to go. Doctor Whitman said, 'Move and my man shoot you like a dog." This command had its desired effect. The two men stood motionless from dusk until the arrival of the Nez Perce chief and his followers the next morning. It was a night of terror to all, not a breath of sleep except the younger children.
Early in the morning fires were lighted and a good supply of coffee was made. The sullen and wily Indians came in hordes to drink. Meanwhile, the chief, looking like a caged demon, scowled and refused to speak a word. All his plans had been foiled, but he was conquered. Soon after sunrise the Nez Perce chief came up with his men. They had crossed the Blue Mountains during the night. The Walla Walla chief gave a groan of desperation and dropped his gun. The kind old Nez Perce chief shook hands with Doctor "Whitman, then addressed himself to the sullen chief: "The Great Spirit watched the white man, and the Indians should know better than kill them." A cup of good coffee was brought to the chief before he was released from captivity. He drank it and ate the preferred food, but refused to talk to the friendly chief. He then walked slowly out to where his pony grazed, followed by his warriors.
The Nez Perce had been sent out by Rev. Spalding of the Lapwai Mission, and these friendly Indians brought game and dried meats for us, also some tokens of friendship.
Our fears were now allayed and the anxious mothers again attempted to prepare food for the hungry, frightened children. All worked with renewed energy. The teams were now allowed to graze on the beautiful grassy meadows but a close watch was kept as there were thousands of Indians to be seen in all directions. It was estimated that our train would have been massacred before one-half their number could have been in the engagement.
We now drove to the Grande Ronde river and camped where that stream comes out from the mountains .When visiting La Grande in later years my husband decided that we were on that ground for our first camp after the night of terror, and, as the whole region was alive with Indians we did not rest securely in feeling, although the "friendly Indians" and the Doctor with his followers were in two groups near us and assured our weary men that they would attend guard duty for the night.
The next morning we were on our way by sunrise and that night we camped in the mountains at what is now known as Meacham station. Doctor Whitman and the friendly Indians continued to pilot us until we reached The Dalles of the Columbia at the old Dalles Mission which is now embraced in the city of The Dalles, Oregon.
We passed over the present site of the city of Pendleton and soon after leaving the mouth of McKay Creek we took a direct course to the Columbia river which we reached some time the next night. From there we crossed over -sand dunes and over the banks of inflowing streams until we came to the De-schutes river. This stream was difficult to cross and rafts were constructed although a ford was finally discovered.
We reached The Dalles, Oregon, on the 14th day of September, 1845, just two days before my seventeenth birthday. At The Dalles we found a mission and a few families of missionaries. My husband and I attended church there on Sunday, September 19th, and heard a sermon by Mr. Waller. Five or six families besides ourselves made up the congregation. A dozen or so Indians were present
The Indians of the Klickitat tribe across the river on what is now known as the Washington side were friendly to the whites and brought over boatloads of fresh vegetables to sell. We bought peas, onions and turnips from them, also young potatoes, as good ones as I have ever seen in my life. The Indians also brought nice, fresh venison to sell so that during our week's stay our teams and stock recruited and we enjoyed some degree of the comforts of home life, only the camp fires could never take the place of the Franklin stove to which I had been accustomed. There was a small store or trading post kept by the Hudson Bay Company where supplies could be purchased. While here we washed clothing, repacked our goods, and, for the first time in many months, used the flat-irons, thus enjoying a good degree of wholesome comfort.
On Monday, September 20th, a party went out to explore the country, and discover, if possible, any route that could be traversed by wagons across the Cascade mountains. The return of this exploring party convinced us that such an undertaking was utterly impossible, except for the loose stock.
The next plan was to devise some means of conveying the wagons and families down the river, together with the household goods.
Father had lost only one head of stock on the road, and one calf born on the road made the herd just as it was when starting, one hundred head. It would be impossible to take so large a herd down the river so it was decided that .father take the family and goods down the river and my husband take the stock over the mountains. The train was now broken into families or groups as the fear of Indians was past. Father chartered two ship yawls that had been towed up the river by the Hudson Bay Company, also three Indian canoes and the Indian owners were hired to assist us in the trip down the river. Our men went to work preparing these for the trip. The wagons were taken to pieces and loaded on the boats. Bales and boxes of goods were placed beside the trunks and a large canoe was to take mother and the children, Mrs. Welch, a widow lady, and her three young children, down the river. It was intended that I should accompany her also, but my mind was fully made up in another way, and, when the time came for action I expressed my determination differently as the next chapter will show.
The Story of the Bear River Cut-off.
When we reached a small stream called Bear River there was quite a dispute as to the road. Captain Kearney had left us, knowing that Doctor Whitman and his friendly Indians would soon meet us, so we were again alone but no danger was apprehended as we were assured that the first time we would strike into a disputed Indian territory would be some where near the Grande Ronde valley, and these scouts had gone ahead to inform the Mission of our coming.
When we reached Bear river a dispute arose as to the proper course and some contended that we should turn Northward and follow the stream to the Columbia, but the majority decided to follow the directions of Captain Kearney and take a direct course to the Northward across the country to the Grande Ronde river. The dispute became heated and finally a small party left us shouting good-byes and waving hats, although some mothers of that party wept and took farewell with heavy hearts. They followed the stream to its confluence with the Snake river, then down the Snake river to the Columbia. Of their sufferings and deaths the world will never know. And if the details were all written we yet could never realize all.
One day shortly after our arrival in The Dalles a man was seen approaching. The sight was so unusual tttat father and some others went out to meet him as his slow and weary steps indicated distress. It proved to be Mr. Hull, one of those who had left us at Bear river. He was scarcely able to walk and had not tasted food for three days. Soon as he had eaten a meal and' was able to converse he told us that his wife, and five other mothers had died. The children and the remainder of the party were in camp about a day's travel up the Columbia river. They were dying of starvation. Their teams had been without feed most of the way and were unable to go any further without rest A horse was immediately packed with provisions. Father and several others started that same afternoon to their relief. They were found just as Mr. Hull had described them and by the close of another day we saw those weary, worn travelers toiling along toward us.
The story of their sufferings was terrible. One woman had died as they were driving down the steep side of a mountain and they dared not stop until the foot of the mountain was reached and the little company in a safe location on account of the Indians. Then the body was buried in the best manner possible. Five women died and also several children. The remainder of the company were almost destitute of clothing and had suffered desperately. One woman whose death occurred in this party was Mrs. Sam Parker. She left a large family of children. The reunion was a time of sadness and tears. Our own trials and dangers were vividly in mind and we were just resting and giving thanks for all that we had escaped. So our sympathies were alive and active toward our unfortunate friends. Tears flowed freely and each member of our company vied with one another in their efforts to render these unfortunates comfortable. The children were kept together and no family was separated but there were many opportunities to assist them and it was the delight of each to do all possible for these dear motherless children.
It has been said to me in later years that it was from such scenes as these that I formed the habit of seeking the needy, but I wish to say that the desire to assist the suffering and needy was a born gift and with myself and husband there was never an opportunity to assist the needy that did not enlist our full sympathies and call out our best efforts to aid. It is such a real pleasure to make others happy and comfortable that no one should neglect the opportunity to do so.