Cylinder Head R & R Reference Photos
(Click pix for big pix)

Fuel Distributor 
Pictures before and after.

Upper Intake Manifold
Pictures before and after.

Lower Intake Manifold
Pictures before and after.

Throttle Body (before & after cleaning)
The throttle plate and throat were very gunked up.  It moved fairly freely though.  I cleaned the all the vacuum ports too.  I did not remove the throttle switch, just cleaned it's in place.  I did check the switch with a meter before and after (Wide Open & Fully Closed)

Top	Bottom

Air/Fuel Mixture Unit
This is a view of the inside of the airflow meter (Fig-AF1).  The rubber airguide is secured to the bottom of the airflow meter by an aluminum ring and 15 bolts.  Fig-AF2 shows the even space around the airflow meter plate and airflow throat.  If this is not centered the airflow plate will bind.

Fig-AF1	Fig-AF2

Head
Heads came back from Atlantic Enterprises  cleaned and pressure tested (no problems). The head surface had to be welded and ground where some corrosion made it's way through the head gasket within the fire ring.  Other areas where the corrosion caused pitting was filled with JB Weld and milled (Fig-H1). All guides were replaced.  One guide was so loose that the oversized hole had to be repair.  All valves and seats were 3-way ground and lapped.  All valves were in excellent condition and no needed replacing.  Rotators were cleaned and oiled.  New valve stem seals were installed.  One spark plug hole (#4) was heli-coiled.  

Fig-H1	Fig-H2
Fig-H3 Before	Fig-H4 After
Fig-H5 Before	Fig-H6 After

Manifolds
I also had Atlantic sonic clean all the manifolds and bead blast the exterior of the exhaust, which I will have powder coated.  Bob had said the gunk in the bottom of the lower intake took several cleanings before to get it all out.  Fig-M9 is the end of the EGR tube that was totally clogged with carbon, this end goes into the lower intake.
Figs-M10-13 are the Exhaust Manifold Cross-Over system. M10 is a view from the front, M11 from the rear, M12 is the right side coupling and M13 is the left coupling.  The unions are secured with stainless steel clamps with a copper foil gasket in between.  Note I don't show the forward halves of the left and right manifolds, which are joined by a stainless steel flex coupling (see Fig-M1).

Fig-M1	Fig-M2	Fig-M2a (after PC)
	Fig-M4
Fig-M5	Fig-M6
Fig-M7	Fig-M8
Fig-M9
Fig-M10	Fig-M11
Fig-M12	Fig-M13

Cam Timing
The following are pictures of cam timing before the head repair and after.  Measurements (FigC1-C6) were  taken at 5 degrees after top dead center.  FigC7-C9 are at TDC.  Note: Fig-C8 shows the right cam being about 8 degree late after the head repair.  I assume it's so far off because the heads were milled (left about .0035" and right about .006").  When the heads are milled cam is lowered by the amount milled off, this in turn adds slack in the timing chain, which is take up by the TC tensioner.  MB makes special woodruff keys that are offset by different degrees to bring the cam timing back it spec.  

Fig-C1 Beforerepair - 5 Deg ATDC	Fig-C2 Rt Align marks	Fig-C3 Left Align Marks
Fig-C4 After repair - 5 Deg ATDC	Fig-C5 Rt Align marks	Fig-C6 Lt Align marks
Fig-C7 After repair- TDC	Fig-C8 Rt Align marks	Fig-C9 Left Align Marks

Note: Cylinder compression measurements Before & After. Measurements taken with engine at operating temperature.

Crank Position Sensor

Fig-CP1 w/cover	Fig-CP2 w/o cover

Cam Oiler Pipe
These little plastic pieces are often the cause for premature cam & rocker arm failure.  They get very brittle and break with age, not allowing oil to shower down on the cam lobes.   When checking the cam for obvious wear, check that these plastic holders are not cracked or if in doubt replace them.  They are cheap from MB. 

Tools
Fig-T1 shows the required "U"  body 8mm Allen wrench (Sir Tool M0013)  necessary to properly torque the cylinder heads.  The top 4 head bolts are under the camshaft and since the cam bearing tower lower bolts are also head bolts, the cam must be in place before you start torquing the head..
Fig-T2 shows the various tools I found useful in removing the cylinder head bolts, 8mm "U" body, 8mm long handle allen wrench, a fixed 8mm allen socket (not allen socket with interchangeable bits), various length extensions, 1/2"-3/8" adaptor and 1/2" breaker bar. 
Fig-T3 shows the MB valve spring compressor.

Fig-T1	Fig-T2	Fig-T3