Slide-Lift Roof Repair (Sept
19,2005)
Overview
A little while ago I noticed my slide/lift roof of my 1989 560SEC was working
kind of erratic. Once in a while it would hesitate while opening or
closing and may need a little help. Afraid of having the roof jam open or
close and not being able to access the mechanism, I removed the slide roof
headliner. I left the headliner out, until I had the time to remove the
roof panel and have a look. Finally one day the roof lifted and would not
close. Fortunately the headliner was out, I could easily access
everything. So I would suggest if your roof is acting up, at least take
the time to remove the headliner while the roof is still working.
Otherwise you may have to damage the headliner in order to get it out, should
the roof decide to jam open or close one day.
After I got the roof panel out, I saw that the right slide
mechanism was broken in half (Fig-4 & Fig-8).
This write-up does not explain the entire procedure and should be used as a supplement
to MB shop manual.
MB Manual Job References
77-050 Remove and replace headliner of sliding/lifting roof
77-100 Remove and replace sliding roof cover (panel)
77-110 Adjusting sliding roof cover (panel)
77-170 Remove and replace lifting arm of sliding/lifting roof
Special Tools
001-989-14-51 Slide paste (required)
Note: MB sells a large (maybe a pound) can and is expense, you can get smaller
amounts from other sources.
124-589-17-21-00 - right alignment tool (Fig-13)
124-589-18-21-00 - left alignment tool
Note: These tools are cheap (about a $1 each) so get them.
Permatex Loc-Tite (blue,medium strength)
Before you start
Protect interior from grease and dirt by masking off exposed fabric and taping
newspaper around roof exterior to protect painted surfaces.
Removing the Roof Panel
In order the remove the roof panel the roof has to be open so the left and right
slide rail tops can be removed. The panel is secured by brackets attached
to the slide/lift mechanism (Fig14). You remove the
2 nuts on top of each bracket and simply lift the panel out, as long as the rail
tops have been removed. At the front of the panel are 2 brackets (Fig-1)
that are secured by the rail tops. So I had to remove the bolts that
secure these brackets to roof panel and wiggle the panel around to get these
brackets free of the slide rail. Then I simply lifted the panel out.
Removing Slide Mechanism
With the mechanism forward, disconnect the drive cable from the transom (Fig-2)
by removing the 2 bolts. Then remove the 3 bolts (each side) from the
slide mechanism bracket (Fig-3) to transom. Remove
transom. Slide one of the mechanism back and forth to access the 3-phillip
screws that secure the plastic slide guide from the roof pan. You should
then be able to tilt and lift out the mechanism.
Reassembly
Clean old slide paste from rails, make sure area is clear of any debris from the
out parts and apply a fresh coat slide paste. Apply paste to
contact points of new parts. Make sure the new mechanism has all the
felt pads installed at the rail contact points. The new mechanism comes
with these pad just make sure none fell off.
Start by inserting the appropriate plastic slide guide and then work the
mechanism into the plastic guide (Fig-10) and then into
the slide rail. Position the plastic guide and screw in place.
Also Loc-Tite on all machine screws that attach to the mechanism and
transom. This will prevent the screws from loosening up and causing the
whole assembly to rack, bind and possibly self distruct.
Again, use the MB manual for more details.
Front Height Adjust Problem
The manual calls for adjusting the roof panel height to be 0-1 mm below the lip
of the roof opening. You basically do this by first loosening the two
screws (on each side Fig-14)
and moving the rear of the roof panel up and down until it's between 0-1 mm
lower than the rear lip of the roof opening. Then tighten the screws back
up again. Then slide open the roof and loosen the 4 screws (each side)
that secure the rail tops. Then adjust the front adjusting screws (Fig-17)
(you'll see the slide rail moving up & down) until the roof panel is 0-1 mm
below the front lip of the roof opening. Then open the roof and tighten
the screws securing the rail top.
I could not get the front edge of the panel to the correct adjustment. The
lowest I could get the front was about 1 mm above the opening. I was able
to adjust the rear correctly. I left is that way until I had time to go
back and check it out. In that time I had taken the car out on the
interstate hwy and at around 80 mph the roof made more wind noise closed than
open because of that silly little millimeter. When I got the car back in
the garage I popped the panel back out and discovered that I installed the front
brackets incorrectly (see Fig-15
& Fig-16).
After correcting my mistake and readjusting the front alignment, the wind noise
was gone.
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Right Front Bracket (2 screws removes)
Fig-1 |
Cable bracket connects to the transom
Fig-2 |
|
Right Slide Mechanism bracket connects to transom
Fig-3 |
Broken half of Right Slide Mechanism
Fig-4 |
|
Left Side Slide Mechanism, down (not broken)
Fig-5 |
Left Side Slide Mechanism, lifted (not broken)
Fig-6 |
|
Plastic slide guides (top new, bottom worn)
Fig-7 |
Slide Mechanisms (top new, bottom broken)
Fig-8 |
|
Slide Mechanism & guide
Fig-9 |
Slide Mechanism & guide fitted
Fig-10 |
|
Right New Mechanism installed (down)
Fig-11 |
Right New Mechanism installed (lifted)
Fig-12 |
|
Right Alignment tool
Fig-13 |
Rear height adjustment
Fig-14 |
|
Front bracket installed incorrectly
Fig-15 |
Front bracket installed correctly
Fig-16 |
|
Front Height Adjustment Screw
Fig-17 |
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