Lots of images, so it may load slow.
This summer
was the hottest one ever, with temperatures as high as 110
degrees! So I decided it was time to get my swamp cooler fully
functional. The blower alone was not enough. The following
will be a photo record of the steps taken to rebuild the unit.
Hopefully this may help others in the process too.
The Sears Kenmore swamp cooler sits on my roof. Ready to be taken apart.
All the side panels are removed. The drive belt to the squarrel cage fan is cracked and was the first item to replace.
The pump required replacing. I got one from Pete's Hardware in Castro Valley for about $16.
Much of the bottom had lots of rust and holes.
The whole bottom of the cooler needs to be coated with Fiberglass cloth and Marine Epoxy.
I used 314 Marine Epoxy ($22) and 109 Hardener ($12) from Tap Plastics.
The "spider" arm for water distribution looked ok, so I left that alone.
The new pump from Petes's Hardware.
New float valve, also from Pete's Hardware.
Check that all the spider tubes at the top are in place before starting.
If not properly positioned, water will spray all over and you will have a mess.
The Sears Kenmore swamp cooler sits on my roof. Ready to be taken apart.
All the side panels are removed. The drive belt to the squarrel cage fan is cracked and was the first item to replace.
The pump required replacing. I got one from Pete's Hardware in Castro Valley for about $16.
Much of the bottom had lots of rust and holes.
The whole bottom of the cooler needs to be coated with Fiberglass cloth and Marine Epoxy.
I used 314 Marine Epoxy ($22) and 109 Hardener ($12) from Tap Plastics.
The "spider" arm for water distribution looked ok, so I left that alone.
Coat
the bottom with fiberglass cloth ( $10 yrd) and epoxy. Mix in
small batches
of 5 ounces (4 parts 314 resin and 1 part 109 hardener) On really
hot days, keep the mixed portion in a second container with ice to keep
the mixture from overheating.
When mixed, the stuff will get hot and start to smoke. Once that happens, you need to start with a new batch. This happened when I was working with the resin with a outside temperature of 105 degrees! Use a cheap disposable 2" brush with each batch.
I did the bottom in two coats, with 24 hrs between coats over the course of a weekend. Trim excess fiberglass/epoxy at the edges with a razor knife when cured.
When mixed, the stuff will get hot and start to smoke. Once that happens, you need to start with a new batch. This happened when I was working with the resin with a outside temperature of 105 degrees! Use a cheap disposable 2" brush with each batch.
I did the bottom in two coats, with 24 hrs between coats over the course of a weekend. Trim excess fiberglass/epoxy at the edges with a razor knife when cured.
Wait 7
days before adding water to the cooler.
The new pump from Petes's Hardware.
New float valve, also from Pete's Hardware.
Check that all the spider tubes at the top are in place before starting.
If not properly positioned, water will spray all over and you will have a mess.
Add a
outlet box for plugging in the pump. That way you don't have to
cut off the cord to wire in the pump.
Having an outlet makes it handy to disconnect the pump during service. Don't mount so low as
shown. Mount high on the blower if you can. If your spider
gets pushed in when closing the side panel, water will spray all
over. Gravity will allow water splatter to follow the wires into
your house. You should caulk all holes were wires lead into the
house and add a "drip loop".
Without caulking holes, I found out the hard way and got drips into the house down the air vent.
Attached to the green ground wire is a zinc sheet to stop corrosion and generate zinc compounds in the water to stop and kill mold and algae.
Without caulking holes, I found out the hard way and got drips into the house down the air vent.
Attached to the green ground wire is a zinc sheet to stop corrosion and generate zinc compounds in the water to stop and kill mold and algae.
Close
up of the zinc sheet. I took apart an old D size dry cell to rob
the zinc shell. Don't use an alkaline cell, just use the
carbon/zinc type.
Whole lot cheaper than the $25 ones from Bon-Aire. Hey, Zinc is Zinc, right?
Add one of these water treatment blocks to keep it from smelling funky and growing things in the water.
This was the old speed and fan control. The wire joints were wrapped with blue masking tape and electrical tape.
It was mounted behind a panel in the hallway.
All new wiring. Pump control
switch and added
temperature meter. A panel goes over the switch and temperature
display.
An outlet (at the top) is provided for the temperature meter and is hidden behind the wood paneling.
Wood Paneling is placed over the controls
Replaced the old copper tubing that connects to water supply. I bought an ice maker hook-up kit from Lowes.
Cheaper than buying individual parts. Kit came with a valve, fittings and 25 feet of 1/4 inch copper tubing.
Run the tube to your water heater vent. Run the tube down to the cold water pipe on your water heater.
Don't forget to oil your bearing once a season with 20 weight Non-Detergent motor oil. Place a few drops down the tube.
To be continued...
Links
Wikipedia; How swamp coolers work
MakeMagizine; Overclock your Swamp Cooler
Cathodic Protection
Swamp cooler care
Protecting water tanks from corrosion
Back to CMHP homepage
Whole lot cheaper than the $25 ones from Bon-Aire. Hey, Zinc is Zinc, right?
Add one of these water treatment blocks to keep it from smelling funky and growing things in the water.
Next,
I took out all the old wiring. Pretty scary stuff. It was a
fire waiting to happen!
When I bought the house, I had this place inspected by a professional. He said the cooler was OK. What an idiot!
When I bought the house, I had this place inspected by a professional. He said the cooler was OK. What an idiot!
This was the old speed and fan control. The wire joints were wrapped with blue masking tape and electrical tape.
It was mounted behind a panel in the hallway.
Replaced
the old outlet (upper right) and brought all wiring to a terminal strip
mounted in an plastic outdoor type outlet cover.
Wires are numbered with stick-on lables. Access in the air duct, just below the blower. Keep a wiring diagram folded up and tucked inside.
Wires are numbered with stick-on lables. Access in the air duct, just below the blower. Keep a wiring diagram folded up and tucked inside.
An outlet (at the top) is provided for the temperature meter and is hidden behind the wood paneling.
Wood Paneling is placed over the controls
Replaced the old copper tubing that connects to water supply. I bought an ice maker hook-up kit from Lowes.
Cheaper than buying individual parts. Kit came with a valve, fittings and 25 feet of 1/4 inch copper tubing.
Run the tube to your water heater vent. Run the tube down to the cold water pipe on your water heater.
Don't forget to oil your bearing once a season with 20 weight Non-Detergent motor oil. Place a few drops down the tube.
To be continued...
Wikipedia; How swamp coolers work
MakeMagizine; Overclock your Swamp Cooler
Cathodic Protection
Swamp cooler care
Protecting water tanks from corrosion
Back to CMHP homepage