PHOTOS OF

HAVASU CANYON

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Navajo Falls is the first of the four waterfalls you reach after about a 1.5 mile hike down from Supai Village. This waterfall is 75 feet tall and comes down in several distinct falls. The foliage is so thick here that good views of the falls are obscured, though a trail can be followed down to creek level and there are some pools you can go in at the base of the falls. Navajo Falls is named after a 19th century Havasupai tribal chief who as a child was kidnapped and raised by Navajo Indians. Years later he learned of his identity and returned to his home.

Havasu Falls is about 100 feet tall, dropping into the magnificent blue-green pool which beckons visitors to linger on the shore and play in the constant 70 degree water. Water is contained in the pools by naturally occurring travertine dams formed by the high concentration of limestone in the water which precipitates out.

Though heavy rains and flooding in 1992 and 1995 washed out many of the travertine dams, many remain and are being rebuilt by nature. If you wear proper footwear (such as Tevas), you can safely walk across the dams to access other pools, or you can simply swim over to any area you wish to explore.

The tranquility of this place drew us back the second day and we spent the better part of the day here, in and out of the water, but often simply staring at the beauty, mesmerized by the pounding of the falls, the splatter of the spray, the magnificence of the scenery. Even after 5 hours, it was difficult to leave and return to Supai. This is the most popular place, so expect other people to be there.

Mooney Falls is the tallest at 196 feet (29 feet taller than Niagara Falls). It is also the hardest to reach the base of, as depicted in the next 2 photos. Mooney was a miner who died here in 1880. Several versions exist regarding his death, but revolve around the fact that he attempted to descend by rope, which jammed and ultimately frayed and broke. The Havasupai call this falls "the Mother of the Waters."

Descending to the base of the falls (without duplicating Mooney's demise) requires traversing 2 nearly vertical tunnels (between which the prior photo was taken) and then climbing down with the assistance of chains attached to steel stakes hammered into the rock face. Here my 2 sons begin the descent. The green water of the pool can be seen below. Several of the chains have detached from the pitons and flap about, and of course, spray from the waterfall can make the rocks and chains wet. Also, everything is coated with a layer of red dust from the redwall limestone in this area. However, if care is exercised, this looks like a much more difficult operation than it actually is, and it is exhilarating! I suggest you follow the trail from the top, go through the tunnels, and begin going down the first section of chains. After you see what the "path" is like, you can decide for yourself whether you wish to descend all the way.

If you look closely, you can see a group of 12 heading up the chains and ladders, and hence trace the route. At the top are several warning signs that try to dissuade you from continuing. And as you enter the Supai Village and pay your entrance fee, you will sign a waiver for accidents incurred in the canyon.

Two miles farther downstream is the smallest of the falls, Beaver Falls, and four miles beyond that is the Colorado River. The trail below Mooney Falls becomes more difficult and crosses the creek numerous times, and as you get farther downstream, you will begin meeting people coming upriver from raft trips through the Grand Canyon.