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I love the crossflow.  It sounds fantastic, has great throttle response, a strong low-end, and really begins to scream – both aurally and from a seat-of the-pants perspective – as the tachometer swings past 4000 rpm.  Despite its complete absence of alloy, it is even a fairly light powerplant, thanks to compact dimensions and simple (i.e. only 8 valves and 1 cam) valve train.

On the down side, the gas mileage is pretty poor for the power output (~22 mpg), it’s a bit rough, and it is lacking in ultimate oomph.  Although my engine puts out a claimed 145 hp, the dyno showed only 96 hp at the rear wheels, which translates to about 120 hp at the flywheel when a generous 20% drivetrain loss number is used (probably accurate since the rear brakes were dragging during the dyno runs).  Through my correspondence with a number of people I learned that a properly built crossflow can turn out a streetable 150-160 hp, and a less streetable 185 hp in all out, steel bottom-end guise.  Since I wanted a very streetable 180-200hp with the option of hitting the 220 hp range once my sanity had completely left the garage, I began looking into the possibility of replacing the engine. 

In Westfield circles, the venerable Ford Zetec is the most popular option for those who wish to actually feel their organs compress during all out acceleration.  Although roughly 40lbs. heavier than the crossflow, this disadvantage is cut in half by substituting the conversion’s aluminum bell housing for the steel unit typically used in crossflow installations such as mine.  The Zetec is a far more modern engine with an aluminum 16-valve head and a full 2.0L of displacement.  When fitted with throttle bodies, aggressive cams, and headwork it puts out anywhere from 180-210hp. 

For months I struggled trying to decide which way to go: do I stick with a very heavily modified crossflow with the newly available aluminum head that lowers the engine weight by a further 16lbs, or do I move to the more modern, powerful, smoother, reliable, and heavier Zetec?  It was that last descriptor that killed me: heavier.  The thought of adding weight over the nose of a car that’s very being is based on the concept of adding lightness, just killed me.  It just seemed…wrong.  Of course everyone with whom I had corresponded who had performed this conversion raved about the overall improvement, and not one of them had told me they regretted the swap.  Sure, they missed the glorious crossflow scream, but the power.  Ah, the power… 

Just about the time that I had finally succumbed to the siren’s call for more speed and made the decision to build a Raceline-based Zetec, I heard that they were working on conversion parts for Ford’s Zetec replacement: the fabled Duratec.  Designed in conjunction with Cosworth and Mazda, this was an engine that I could love.  Unlike the Zetec, the Duratec is all alloy and light – about 40lbs lighter than a Zetec.  Furthermore, the head design is vastly superior.  Rumors of 270+hp fueled my interest.  The engine was available in 1.8L, 2.0L, and 2.3L guise, and the latter was being used here in the States in the new Ford Ranger pick up.  I then stumbled on the fact that Kansas Racing Products in, where else, Kansas was selling the 2.3L engines in longblock form for only $600!             

I contacted KRP to find out how this was possible and learned that they manufacture alloy racing blocks for Ford who in turn gives them sweetheart deals on excess engines.  These engines become available for a variety of reasons: some are simply a result of over production, others are pulled from the manufacturing line for Quality Assurance testing, and others are engines that the engineers had on hand just to look at and measure.  Because none of these engines are considered “new” Ford can’t resell them as crate motors, so they are stuck with two options: destroy them or allow their “friends” such as KRP to resell them at deep discounts to their own customer base. 

During my conversations with KRP, I learned they also had the 2.0L Euro-only Duratecs available for $800.  These included the flywheel/clutch assembly which accounted for the extra cost over the 2.0L and apparently had been imported for the engineers to look at when they were building the new US factory for the 2.3L units.  At this stage I began to research the differences between the two Duratec motors and the Zetec.  The following chart highlights some of the key findings: 

Note: Mazda produces its own version of these motors that differ from the Ford units in that they employ S-VT (sequential valve timing) and also add balance shafts to smooth out the 2.3L.  The capacity and power figures for the available Mazda engines are:
European Market: 2.0L (145hp-10.8:1) , 2.3 (160hp-10.6:1)
Japanese Market: 2.0L (145hp-10.8:1), 2.3 (175hp- 10.6:1)
U.S. Market: 2.3L (150hp- 9.7:1)  

When you compare the stock power and torque figures between the Duratec and Zetec, the former has only a slight advantage.  What the chart doesn’t tell you is that the Duratec is reportedly 40lb (18kg) lighter and because of the improved head, is much more responsive to simple mods such as throttle bodies and cams. 

Comparing the two Duratecs is also interesting.  The Ford 2.3L is used in their Ranger pickup truck and is tuned for low-end torque.  Not only does it have a lower compression ration (9.7:1 vs. 10.8:1) than the 2.0L, but the stock cam is milder and the 10.9mm longer stroke requires a marginally taller block (reportedly by 14mm).  The crank also uses 8 counterweights versus just 4 in the smaller motor.  Given these differences, it sounds like the larger engine may be a little heavier and slightly less rev-happy than the short-stroke 2.0L.   

I then looked at the power potential of the 2.0L.  With just the throttle bodies, exhaust, and engine mapping, Raceline was getting 180-185hp and Scholar was reporting 192hp.  Add cams and those figures jump into the 210-220hp area.  Add headwork and strengthened internals and…well let’s just say that rumors of 275+hp are circulating.  Since I would be happy with 180hp as a starting point, this meant that I could opt for the baseline configuration and avoid tearing into the motor.  Further, although the 2.3L clearly has more power potential, the 2.0L produces more than enough for my needs and I think its torque potential may prove more manageable in such a light car.  Consequently I have opted for the 2.0L and currently have one sitting in my garage awaiting the conversion parts from Raceline.  Stay tuned for more information on the impending swap.