SEA TO SEA ON A TANDEM - Jan and Craig McLanahan
We have set up a three month project to ride our tandem bicycle across the country this spring. Leaving Santa Monica on April 3, we plan to follow the old Route 66 to St. Louis and then head east through southern Illinois, Indiana, and Ohio into Northern West Virginia, Western Maryland and Washington, DC. Crossing the Chesapeake Bay at Annapolis, we want to reach the Atlantic Ocean at Lewes, Delaware in about 75 to 90 days. Crossing to Cape May, we expect to follow the New Jersey shore north to New York and the south shore of Long Island to Montauk point, where a summer passenger ferry connects to Rhode Island. From there, a short ride north to Boston and the North Shore should bring us home before July 4.
Outline map is from WorldAtlas.com
Travel Stats`so far........
Last Town: Marblehead, MA (HOME AGAIN!) Miles ridden: 3601
Days on road: 87 (incl. layover days)
(6/28/04) Left Braintree for the short ride to the Quincy commuter boat, which took us to Logan Airport, and we rode home from there in about two hours, stopping at Kelley's for a roast beef sandwich. Coming into Marblehead, we were met by a very enthusiastic welcoming committee of friends, tandem cyclists, and members of St. Andrew's church, with champagne! It's great to be back!
(6/27/04) Rode from Portsmouth, RI, to Braintree, MA, home of Jan's sister Judy Cobble and her husband John. A fairly easy trip but with one blown tire.
(6/26/04) We are back in New England, visiting family in Portsmouth, RI., after taking a passenger ferry from Montauk Point on Long Island to Block Island, RI, and then the Block Island ferry into Point Judith, RI. Yesterday, we made the journey from Shinnecock to Montauk on Long Island.
(6/24/04) Tonight we stayed at a "resort" overlooking Shinnecock Inlet about two thirds of the way out on Long Island. Yesterday, we visited The Harrison's, Talbot's husband's parents at their home on Fire Island. We reached them by ferry from Bay Shore.
(6/22/04) Yesterday, we were back out to the beaches after a night at Tom's River, we passed through towns, such as Belmar, Ocean Grove, Asbury Park, Deal, Sea Girt, and Sea Bright, of widely varying economic conditions. Today, we took an early commuter ferry from Atlantic Highlands into Manhattan and then went over the Brooklyn Bridge to Flatbush Avenue to the Rockaways, for our start up the south shore of Long Island.
(6/20/04) From Wildwood, yesterday, we rode the beach roads and boardwalks of the Jersey Shore to Atlantic City where we had to turn inland to get around Barnegat Bay. From Absecon to Tom's River was a 50+ mile trek up US route 9, including a (prohibited but unavoidable) section of the Garden State Parkway.
(6/18/04) Left Milford for the Cape May ferry and crossed the mouth of Delaware Bay this morning. Lost another tire just after we debarked, but I hope we have found the cause (a burr on the rim). Found a bike store to sell us a new tire and then a motel in Wildwood. Took a dip in the ocean and actually DIPPED THE WHEELS IN THE ATLANTIC. Sea to Sea is done! Now to get home.
(6/17/04) Rode across eastern Maryland and Delaware to Milford in the last two days. Yesterday, we left DC for Annapolis where our friends the Carrolls picked us up to take us across the Bay Bridge (bikes prohibited) to their home in Chestertown, MD. Blew out a tire. Today, we rode to Milford, DE. and stayed at the Causey Mansion B&B, there.
(6/15/04) Today is a layover day at Jan's cousin, Pam's, in Washington. Put new brake pads on the bike (first time), still looking for a tough tire for a spare. Yesterday, we rode from Leesburg to Washington on the hardtop Washington and Old Dominion Trail to get away from the increasingly muddy C&O Towpath Trail. W&OD is one of the best rail trails we have seen. It has covered rest areas and even free compressed air at a number of points along its approximately 40 mile length. Having crossed the Potomac, we had to climb back up through Rock Creek Park to reach Pam's house near Tacoma Park. We lost our way on the maze of trails and wound up on Connecticut Avenue at the beginning of rush hour. It was a little hectic.
(6/13/04) We have spent three days riding the C&O canal towpath from Cumberland to White's Ferry, MD. The towpath is wet from recent rains, but it is the best way, for us, to get through several mountain ranges on a flat path. The canal was created in the early 1800's to bring coal, lumber, and agricultural products from Western Maryland and West Virginia to Washington. Although the railroads won the competition, the canal is a wonderful relic of 19th century engineering. Tonight we are in Leesburg, VA; tomorrow we plan on Washington, D.C.
(6/10/04) We arrived in Cumberland, MD, late yesterday after an adventure in riding the Appalachian Mountains. Early in the day we descended a 4 mile 7 to 9 percent downgrade that has a reputation as a truck killer. Our drag brake turned black from the heat. The scenery has been lovely. Today, we layover in Cumberland, planning our trip to Washington, D.C. along the C&O canal towpath.
(6/8/04) Today we crossed over from West Virginia to the Oakland/Deep Creek Lake, Maryland area. The ride has been hilly. Yesterday we started off blowing a tire by using our rim brakes too much going down into a river valley, and then climbing 1500 feet in elevation over 31/2 miles almost straight up a mountainside at a steep gradient that forced us to walk most of the way.
(6/6/04) We have just completed a two day trip along the North Bend Rail Trail (70 miles across West Virginia). It was nice to have no traffic and no hills, although we were slower than on a blacktop road due to the resistance of the gravel surface, lots of barricades to keep motor vehicles out, and many old railroad tunnels (some thousands of feet long) that needed to be walked through.
(6/4/04) We left Ohio for West Virginia this afternoon, under threat of rain. Parkersburg is an Ohio River town which has spruced up parts of downtown. The Blennerhassett is our restored, "grand dame" hotel tonight (pictures). It's named after an accomplice of Aaron Burr who tried to set up a new country for himself in the Northwest Territories (then Ohio et al). Yesterday, we had a long but easy ride from Chillicothe to Athens, the home of Ohio University.
(6/2/04) For the last two days we have had beautiful riding weather across Ohio. The farms look prosperous, but a little wet; the winds have been at our back, and the landscape has been fairly flat. On Memorial Day we entered Ohio and rode through Cincinnati along the waterfront, which at first was grimly industrial. As we passed the two ballparks, though, the waterfront came alive with people, a skateboard contest, a cycling contest, strollers, cyclists, and the "Purple People Bridge", a spectacular bridge recycling project. We stopped in Mariemont, a 1920's planned community, at the Mariemont Inn. Nice Digs.
(5/30/04) Another Tornado warning tonight, after severe thunderstorm warnings all day! The ride to our last town in Indiana was rainy for about half of the distance, causing us to hold up at the Rising Sun Casino on the river. We left Madison yesterday under sunny skies, after viewing a large auto show on the waterfront. The ride was mostly flat with views of the swollen river, a river tow going slowly upstream, and a huge set of locks. We stopped at a motel across the street from Belterra Casino.
(5/28/04) Today was a beautiful riding day after several days of severe thunderstorm/tornado warnings. We made 66 miles from Spring Mill Inn to Madison, IN, on the Ohio River. Madison is a nicely restored river town that has some beautiful old houses and restored shops and other buildings. Yesterday, we were awakened by tornado warning sirens (very loud) at 5:30 am. The tornado was in another part of the county. After an early breakfast we set out, but our ride was cut short by the threat of a storm and our lunch time arrival at the Spring Mill Inn, a graceful Adirondack style lodge in a state park featuring a "working" pioneer village that has impressive restored houses and a working water-powered grist mill. Late in the afternoon a big storm struck and tornado warnings were issued. The Inn lost power until 1:00 am, but we were glad to be inside. Washington, IN, got hit by a tornado.
(5/26/04) We set out from Vincennes for Mitchell, IN, under a leaden sky and the threat of big storms later in the day. About 15 miles out, we were in the Washington, IN, visitor center asking about the road and accommodations ahead when the deluge hit. After it cleared, we set out again, but decided to cut it short at Loogootee, IN, due to warnings and darkening skies. Thunder rattled long into the evening. Yesterday, we reached Vincennes, IN, our first glimpse of the state after crossing the Wabash River and encountering the George Rogers Clark memorial run by the National Park Service. Clark was an older brother to William Clark (of Lewis and Clark fame) and figured prominently in winning the "West" (Ohio, Michigan, Illinois, and Indiana) from the British during the revolution.
(5/24/04) We left Lake Carlyle, riding across the large earthen dam, headed for Flora, IL. The ride was mostly flat with calm winds and sunny skies, a nice 54 mile day finished by 2 pm. Yesterday we left St. Louis, using the Metrolink rail service to take us through East St. Louis, which all locals said we should avoid. Metrolink dropped us off at Shiloh, IL, about 20 miles east of the river in flat farm country. We were headed for Salem, IL, but cut it short, due to dark skies and storm warnings, at Lake Carlyle. The lake is a project of the Army Engineers which created a large (15 mi. long by 2-3 mi. wide) lake that has, for its size, an amazing number of large yachts moored in marinas. Big thunderstorm and a tornado watch at night.
(5/22/04) We arrived in St. Louis on 5/20, to stay at Jan's cousin Nancy Quigley's house in the University City area of greater St. Louis. Yesterday and today, we took time out for sightseeing and regrouping our thoughts and gear for the trip east. The Missouri Historical Museum was particularly interesting with a bicentennial exhibit on the Lewis and Clark expedition and a centennial exhibition of the 1904 St. Louis World's Fair. The Lewis and Clark show was very interesting as it stressed the differences in the cultural assumptions of the Native American tribes and the mostly white soldiers (except for one slave). Often what they attempted and what actually happened bore no relation to each other, or was at cross purposes. We plan to leave here tomorrow, forecast thunderstorms permitting.
(5/19/04) We are nearing St. Louis, and weather permitting, we should be there tomorrow. We'll be sorry to leave Route 66, our focus for the trip so far. Tonight we are in St. Clair, one of many "Saint Somebody" towns in this part of Missouri. We're guessing this came from Acadian people making their way north from Louisiana, but we don't know. Last night we stopped in St. James after making it past Rolla. Our ride was cut off by warnings of severe thunderstorms, one of which which happened to us about five minutes after we reached our motel.
(5/17/04) The middle of Missouri is hilly, with roller-coaster swoops that get the bike up to 25-30 mph down hill but only let us crawl up hill at 5-7 mph in low gear (or walk up the steepest grades. Today, we set out for Rolla, a college town but decided to cut it short at St. Robert to save several big hills (300-500 feet vertical rise) for the morning. Yesterday we alternated between the interstate and Route 66. On the interstate it was noisy and crowded with trucks; but on 66 we had to contend with more roller coaster hills and lots of neighborhood dogs that decided to chase us. It's still fun, really!
(5/15/04) Springfield is 66 miles in rolling country from Carthage, a long day! The country is pretty with horse farms, hardwood forests, and fields of daisies. This is the third night in a motel with internet connections; can't believe it!
(5/14/04) Yesterday, we went to get the bike and the heavens opened with torrential rain, thunder and lightning. We kept the car another day and stayed in Joplin. Today, we picked up the bike and rode it to Carthage (18 miles!) starting out in a cold drizzle. (Too bad we sent home some of the cold weather clothes yesterday.) Tomorrow promises to be sunny, and we plan to make Springfield (60 miles). Many thanks to Deb and Todd and Wayne of the Joplin bike and Fitness store for a quick and professional turnaround on some serious bike maintenance.
(5/12/04) Yesterday, we planned to run almost 70 miles from Claremore to Miami OK, but a spate of flat tires slowed us down. They were the first flats since LA (1700 miles ago). We stopped at Afton OK and had dinner with a trucker (in the next booth) who showed us his new Peterbuilt piggyback rig that he was delivering to Montreal from Dallas. Today, we made Joplin after several more flats and have put the bike in the shop for some deserved attention. We actually spent a few hours and had lunch in the southeast corner of Kansas, so it's three states today!
(5/10/04) On way into Tulsa, today, we met two European riders going from Chicago to LA in a planned 40 days. Exchanged notes and took pictures. The Arkansas R. at Tulsa has attractive bike paths running along both sides. Went to the public garden to look at the rose garden and conservatory. Yesterday, Jan was asking a customer at a local cafe for local directions when he turned the tables on us and invited us to Mothers' Day Sunday dinner at his house! Were we delighted to be able to connect with this large family just outside Bristow, OK..
(5/8/04) We're having a hard time finding a high speed internet connection to update the web site. Tried to get one in Oklahoma City or Edmond with no luck. Maybe we can find something in Tulsa. Today we rode from Edmond to Stroud (about halfway to Tulsa) all on old 66, through small villages and through farming/ranching country. Instead of so many beef cattle, we are seeing more grain being raised in the fields.
(5/7/04) Reached Oklahoma City today from El Reno. Explored the Botanical Garden (with its Tropical plant conservatory) downtown, and visited the Murrah Building memorial. Stopped at Edmond, OK. For the last two days we were on frontage roads alongside I-40 which kept away the tension of riding with trucks.
(5/4/04) Left Texas today on a southerly breeze, and entered Oklahoma to find trees and grass much more plentiful. Left Amarillo on 5/2 with tailwinds which gave us a good lift in speeds. At end of the day we reached Groom which boasts the "largest cross in the Western Hemisphere" (visible 8+ miles away!) At its base is a set of sculptures of the 14 stations of the cross; quite a production. On 5/3 we reached our last Texas town, Shamrock.
(5/1/04) Yesterday we left San Jon for Vega headed east against 20 mph winds gusting to 30 out of the NE, with drizzle and a 39 deg. temperature. There was no coasting, even on the down hills, but we made 57 miles in 10 hours. We were told about a Texas welcoming center at the border, but a sign there said it was 76 miles away in Amarillo. Same thing for a Stuckey's which we were counting on to get out of the cold; it was closed for re-modelling! Today was more of the same, a little warmer, and we made Amarillo by mid afternoon. The locals all said that it had been 80 deg. last week. Texas is flat!
(4/29/04) Yesterday gave us a nice 63 mile ride from Santa Rosa to Tucumcari, NM, with easy gradients and our own (almost private) stretch of 66. We were only passed by two cars, and it was nice to be apart from the trucks for a lot of the trip. Today, we started for Vega, TX, hoping for favorable tailwinds, but at 10:30 am, as we were buying subs for lunch, the wind shifted from west to strong northeasterly in about ten minutes, and we were forced to stop in San Jon, NM, after only 26 miles.
(4/27/04) Visited Albuquerque's very impressive Botanic Garden and aquarium today before leaving town. Yesterday, we toured Old Town and met for dinner with Jan's college room mate. Due to an 80 mile un-interrupted stretch of I-40, with no alternative routes, few services, the possibility of high winds, and no accommodations, we decided to play it safe and rented a U-Haul for the 120 mile segment from Albuquerque to Santa Rosa, NM.
(4/25/04) Beautiful day to ride in am! Started off by watching a bike race get started at 7:30 am. Morning ride of 40 mi. was level to downhill. After lunch, crosswind came up and we needed to climb 800 feet elev. to top of last hill into Albuquerque. Tough grind at the end of the day!
(4/24/04) Weather got tough on 4/22 when high westerly winds came up. They worked for us but caused a big pileup on I-40 at Grants NM. The front came through and temps on 4/23 were in mid 30's in Gallup. Crossed the Continental Divide (7225 ft.) between Gallup and Grants yesterday. Visited the New Mexico Mining Museum early today and went down into their simulated mine. Started late morning for 20 mile ride to Sky City Casino Hotel, run by the local tribe. (We needed to cut distance to Albuquerque tomorrow, so today was a ligh riding day - and a very nice one, too.
(4/21/04) Since Flagstaff, we have been riding between small towns in Eastern Arizona. First it was Winslow, then Holbrook, and then Chambers, which is really only a gas station, restaurant, and motel at an interstate exit. Often these are railroad towns, as well as stops on Interstate 40, and they sometimes have real gems of landmarks such as the Posada Hotel in Winslow.
(4/18/04) Grandma, don't send your woolies home, yet! We woke up to a clear 36 degree dawn today with a layer of overnight sleet lying on the rental car. The desk clerk says that Flagstaff gets most of its snow in March and April. Yesterday, we drove to the Grand Canyon for some sightseeing. What an awesome natural wonder (and hard to get a picture of)! The night before we drove to Sedona to see The Proof (a play). The drive down at sunset into Oak Creek canyon was as spectacular as the Grand Canyon. This area has some amazing scenery. Retrieved the bike from Absolute Bikes this afternoon, and thanks to Tren and Derek we are on our way to Winslow tomorrow.
(4/16/04) Yesterday was a big day! We rode 45 miles to Williams while climbing approximately 2000 feet, net. Actually we started out climbing about 1000 feet and then lost it as we coasted back to our original altitude before climbing another 2000. We were beat at the end of the day. Lunch at Ash Fork, a town with a huge flagstone plant and yard. Landscape has changed from scrub plants to Ponderosa pines with grass underneath, and one sees more standing water in small seasonal ponds. Hardwoods are in bud stage, and it is colder. Today, we crossed the highest point of trip so far (7300+ feet) on a dirt road in a Ponderosa forest that looked and smelled wonderful. The road was part of the original Rte. 66. We are now in Flagstaff, and the bike is in the shop for repairs. Another layover day or two. We rented a car to get to the Grand Canyon tomorrow and we see a play in Sedona tonight.
(4/14/04) Left Kingman yesterday for Peach Springs and Hualapai Lodge on Rte. 66. Lodge is elegant inn on Hualapai Reservation run by the tribe. Passed thru Truxton at lunchtime (wonderful food at the only diner/motel!). Winds from SW helped and then hurt us as we zig-zagged through the hills, following the train tracks climbing to continental divide. Somehow we bent our derailleur late yesterday because the gears were all skipping early today, requiring adjustment to work smoothly. Never did get low or high gears back, and we need to climb to get to Flagstaff. Very strong SW sidewinds trying to blow us across road as we headed SE to Seligman today. Now we are above 5000 feet elevation!
(4/12/04) Crossed into Arizona Saturday bound for Oatman (picture). Fierce winds out of the North and a climb of 2300 feet slowed us down so we made only 24 miles. Water system at the hotel not working overnight, so we were given pitchers of water to tide us over. A primitive stay in a time capsule from the 1920's. On Easter we climbed another 1000 feet to get over Sitgreaves Pass at 3652 feet (4 hours to go about 6 miles). What a coast down the other side! At least until we hit the headwinds in the Sacramento Valley. On the steep pitches down we were thankful to have our drag brake to protect the tires. Made it into Kingman last night after 33 miles. Layover day today!!
(4/9/04) Crossed the Mojave with following winds most of the way since last entry. Stops included Ludlow (a truck stop with 10 motel rooms), Amboy (see picture), Chambless (a private home), and Needles (last town in California). The sparse desert plants are green with a few flowers beginning to show. The "Big Sky" is vast and blue, framed by distant mountains of more shades of tan and brown than we ever imagined. Today's ride included a stop for water and look around at the Goffs Schoolhouse museum (see picture). We actually rode 73 miles today!
(4/6/04) Climbed Cajon Pass yesterday (whew!) Interesting look at commercial USA with 2 RR's and 2 highways coming through same area. Rode on Inter. #15 (only way through pass) with steady stream of trucks and had to walk partway due to steep grades. We were helped by strong tailwinds yesterday and today. Payoff was a downhill coast of about 10 miles yesterday into Victorville and 40 miles of almost all downhill or flat today to Barstow on the National Trails Highway (aka Route 66). Tonite, we stay in The Route 66 Motel - very funky with semi-detached adobe style cabins and period automobiles parked out front. Tomorrow we start across the real Mojave Desert.
(4/4/04) Started yesterday and got to Azusa overnight. Met up with an English woman there who is finishing 11 month trip around the world using our same Route 66. We plan to cross the Mojave Desert together. Tomorrow we must climb El Cajon Pass through the San Bernardino Mountains. We are at 1100 feet now but must climb to about 4500 feet in about 12 miles of road. Sounds likely to be a walkup in part.
We also met up with another tandem couple, the Wheelers, who know Susan Livingston and John Harkness in Marblehead. They just rode up alongside us and asked where we were going. Small world!