MINI-GUIDE TO LEAVENWORTH, WASHINGTON copyright 1995 Eric Hirst INTRO Leavenworth is perhaps the most developed (overdeveloped?) climbing area in the state, for several reasons. It's a 2 hour drive from Seattle, the weather is pretty reliable, and it is teeming with accessible and generally moderate climbing. It's also the home of Viktor Kramer, who owns stock in the company that makes those little wire brushes. While the generic route seems to be the 20 meter lumpy granite slab, there are also a number of excellent cracks, roofs, steep faces, and traditional multipitch routes. The generally slabby Peshastin Pinnacles (soft sandstone, solid if occasionally sparse bolts) are about fifteen minutes away and worth a look. Icicle Canyon is also the access point for a lot of high quality alpine granite. As with most small-name areas, most of the crowds disappear on weekdays. Out of town climbers should realize that, while there are some classic routes, this place can't compete as a "destination" cragging area. Stop by instead as part of a longer road trip, or use it as fair weather backup if your trip to Squamish BC (or Index WA, if you are a solid 5.11 or 5.12 climber) gets rained out. Or plan on doing a bigger alpine route in the area and climb this stuff instead when you decide on something more laid back. ACCESS, AND THE BIG FIRE In the late summer of 1994, a massive set of fires blasted through virtually all of the roadside climbing areas. As of this writing, October 1994, the place is officially CLOSED. So don't bother showing up until you hear otherwise. It should be open by April 1995, but no promises. The phone # for the ranger station is 509-782-1413. When the area re-opens, use good judgement. Some of the bolts got hot in the fire. While it is currently pretty easy to tell what got hot and what didn't by looking at the places where the rock flaked apart in the heat, this will not be true in a few years. What I have seen of the fire site suggests that a most of the fixed pro is still OK. But there are some Rawl Splits that I worry about. Also be aware that natural rockfall, normally rare, was occuring in the climbing areas several weeks after the fire. [12/95 Note: The fire is out, and it was generally business as usual over the 1995 season. The bridge at Snow Creek was replaced in September and will hopefully have survived the floods of November.] HISTORY Washington climbers have puttered around in Icicle and Tumwater Canyons for many decades, and there is occasional booty to be had even on "first ascents." But, as with the rest of the Pacific Northwest, Fred Beckey put up all the really good routes. Well, sort of. Around 1990, Viktor Kramer published a topo guide to Icicle Canyon, and the crowds soon followed. A few years later, he wrote another, more extensive version, and he plans to do a third at some point fairly soon. Old time Cascade climbers roll their eyes at the crowds and route proliferation, but occasionally stop by anyway. HOW TO GET THERE Find Leavenworth WA on a map. It's where Rte 2 comes out to the east side of the Cascades. Castle Rock and Midnight Rock are in Tumwater Canyon, about 3 miles west of town on Rte. 2. Icicle Canyon is on Icicle Road, a south turn (sort of, the roads wiggle) off of Rte. 2 right at the W end of town by the outlet of Tumwater Canyon. You can walk up to climbers and peruse their guidebooks at either place, or you can get a copy of Viktor's guide at Der Sportsman, the only sporting goods shop in Leavenworth. SEASON AND ALTERNATIVE AREAS April through October, more or less. Pretty reliably dry most summers. If it gets too hot during midsummer, try one of the north facing crags across the river or go to Squamish, BC instead. Other contingency plans include Frenchman's Coulee (warmer but with shaded areas available; basalt), Tieton River (cooler; basalt), Index (less snow, more rain; granite), and Little Si / Exit 38 (less snow, more rain, shady; sportite). Oh, and there's Smith. WHY THEY CALL IT "DER SPORTSMAN" You don't want to know. But suffice to say you get your groceries at Der Safeway. My Aunt Berta, who lives in an RV, thinks Leavenworth is the bee's knees. CAMPING Forest service campgrounds along Icicle road and Rte. 2, free "secret" places if you ask around. Don't camp on any of the private land in the Icicle, though -- you are likely to be awoken and fined. I also suggest a "wagon train" approach to camping in some of the free spots -- sleep somewhere you can't get run over in the middle of the night by shithead locals. No kidding. FOOD & BEER Gustav's has the upscale grease and microbrew your body craves, and recently added a nutburger to their tiny menu. The Homefires Bakery on Icicle Road by the fish hatchery is OK if you slept in. There are also rumours of a good vegetarian restaurant/B&B in town. PORCELAIN Boy that was good coffee at Homefires! The fish hatchery has dee-lux handicapped stalls and a good view of Snow Creek Wall from the parking area. For a hot cheap shower, the laundromat behind the Food Giant will do the trick. Also the new BP station at the beginning of Icicle road has squirrels and bears in the boy's, and understated acorns in the girl's. SKINNY-DIPPIN' Muscle Beach on the Icicle can't be beat, although it is not always as secluded as you might have thought. Good 5.11 toproping, too. The hard to find trailhead is between Bruce's Boulder and Z-Crack Buttress, across the road and just upstream from an underground cable warning sign. MINI GOLF Until recently, Washington was a real backwater as far as this goes. The course in Skykomish, at the home of Ejan's Swedish Meatballs, was about as good as you could get. But it appears that a first class course will be opening next to the BP station at the intersection of Icicle Road and Hwy. 2 in the spring of 1996. New frontiers in fun await. GUIDEBOOKS See History, above. Viktor Kramar's guidebooks are in my opinion very good, especially considering that the crags in Icicle Canyon are so spread out. The 1st edition is blue, the second (Leavenworth Rock Climbs) is white, and the third isn't out yet. The mileage guide in the white book doesn't have any distances in terms of the beginning of Icicle Road, however, so first timers may want to stop at any of the obvious roadside crags and ask where they are. This mini-guide is generally designed to supplement Viktor's white guide, but should work by itself if you are cheap and willing to look over people's shoulders now and then. If you're just passing through, Jim Nelson's Selected Climbs in the Cascades covers Outer Space, the classic that people line up for. It's also in Harlin's West Coast Rock Climbs, Smoot's dismal Washington Rock, and other guides. (The Eric Hirst preferred direct start is in none of these books, however. Don't worry, I'll tell you below.) RECOMMENDED ROUTES ********************************************************** Bouldering There are a number of good spots listed in Viktor's guide. One of the best is the Swiftwater Picnic Area, several miles upstream from Castle Rock in Tumwater Canyon. Park in the upstream lot and explore. Don't miss the always-dry basalt (???) traverse pumper, and be sure to explore the many granite boulders across the highway and slightly upstream. Royal Flush is the 15' roof handcrack overlooking the road, several hundred yards upstream -- tape for this, as it's coarse. ********************************************************** Tumwater Canyon Castle Rock (chunky granite, two tiers, climbs up to six pitches may be contrived here if you link the tiers.) As a rule, each 2nd pitch is about five number grades easier than the one before it. Don't park in the rockfall zone, and consider wearing a helmet, especially on the lower tier. Angel 5.4 2 pitches ** Midway Direct 5.6 3 pitches ** Canary 5.8 2-3 pitches *** Catapult-->The Bone 5.9 2-3 pitches *** Brass Balls 5.10b 2 pitches **** (Gunks-like roofs, great 1st pitch) M.F. Overhang 5.10d 1 pitch, ** can be TR'ed. Shriek of the Mutilated 5.12b ** With a name like that, how can you go wrong? Midnight Rock High above Castle Rock. Big approach, so nobody ever goes there. Awesome cracks, 5.9-5.12c. About 100m tall, with ledge systems. Site of Peter Croft's first "hard solo," Steven's Pass Motel 5.11d **** --> R.O.T.C 5.11c ***** Can't say I've tried this one. Wild Traverse 5.9 *** 5 pitches The grand tour, starting at the bottom left and ending at the top right end of the cliff. Tumwater Tower An intriguing pinnacle guarded by a 90 minute grovel and 50 feet of treacherous 5.5 crack climbing. A worthy summit nonetheless, especially if you climb it butt naked. ********************************************************** Icicle Canyon (lotsa slabs, but variety if you look around): (Except for N-facing crags, list is arranged in downstream -- upstream order.) 1. Sam Hill Area (Short climbs with a good taste of the Icicle character in a fairly small area. Good mix of slabs and steeper terrain. 50% of climbs not in white guidebook.) Jaywalking for Jesus 5.7+ ** flake finish looks harder, 'secret' crag below and R of Oprah's Navel area. Don't Forget Arete 5.8 ** bolts, JFJ crag Roofs(2) 5.10b * JFJ crag Ski Tracks Crack 5.9 *** Fuzzy Packs a Lunch 5.9 * very fun natural gear lead Groping for Oprah's Navel 5.10b ** slab/face 2. Careno Crag Regular Route 5.10b **** 4 short pitches, easy retreat Pumpline 5.11a ** appealing roof crack near descent of RR 2. Bruce's Boulder Topropes, 5.0-5.11. Remote chance of hooking up with a partner here. The busiest spot in the area, but turnover is high. 3. Z-Crack area Cracks and roofs, 5.2-5.10d. The monster hueco roof around the corner from Z-crack is only 5.10 and has upside down no hands rests! 4. Givler's Dome (with a classic Icicle grovel approach) Givler's Crack 5.7+ **** 2+ pitches, big white streak in smooth slab high up from the road Bo Derek 5.10b **** flake, looks very nice, haven't done it 5. Tour d'Hirst 5.10a or 5.11b, 7 or 8 pitches **. Climb Icicle Buttress by way of Cocaine Crack (1 pitch of 5.10a thin hands plus a bunch of 5.4-5.7), then traverse R under some chossy crags to a chossier gully. Straight across the gully are Urban Nomads (5.10a roof to handcrack) and 300 Motivational Tapes (5.9++ weird). 50 yards below these is Jazz Diplomacy (5.9- sport). Before you do these, though, be sure to grovel 50 yards up the gully to jump on Erosion's Little Helper (5.11b sport), the fine steep line with the horrendous base area on the L side of the gully. Return to the river and go for a swim. A 50m rope and pro to about 2.5" will suffice. 6. Carnival Crack 5.10d, pro to 8". What guide would be complete without a brutal offwidth? A star rating does not begin to describe this little gem. Just upstream from 8-Mile campground, may be visible through trees from the road. Usually TR'd (walk around to R). 7. 8-Mile Boulder TRs and leads of 5.7-5.10 cracks and 5.10-5.11d faces. Popular. Climbs are below the road on the river side just upstream from Carnival Crack. 8. Keep-Out, Dog Dome, Rat Creek Buttress. These 3 north facing crags all offer respite from the sun, as well as assorted 1/2 pitch and longer leads and topropes in the 5.8 to 5.12 range. Rock is steeper here than at other spots, so you don't have to climb no steenking slabs. Minor(?) trespassing required on all approaches. A 5.12 finger crack at RCB is currently only a TR, but is up for grabs for anyone willing to lead it without adding bolts (bolts on adjacent 5.10c are "in," however.) 9. Bathtub Dome (Long but scenic approach with a great view to Colchuck Glacier. Visit only if you feel like a nice, relaxed day of hiking and picnicing with a pitch or two thrown in.) New Fixtures, pitch 2 ~5.8 * (the dirty and unprotected 1st pitch is easily avoided.) Shower Stall (the scrubbed "lightning stripe" visible from Bridge Creek Campground) 5.9+ ***, a very fun and surprisingly protectable 50m face pitch. 2 rope rappel. The Drain 5.9 ***, L of SS. I haven't done this; the 5.7 handcrack near the top may still be a little dirty. ****************************************************************** Snow Creek Wall This 800 foot chunk o' granite is home to Washington's Pride 'n Joy moderate route, Outer Space. It's crowded, partly because people like to do it over and over again. About 7 pitches, 4 of which are as fun as they get. Wait, make that 5, if you do the 5.10b direct start! Other fine routes on the wall are Orbit at 5.8+ and Iconoclast --> Hyperspace at 5.10d. I will describe Outer Space in detail, hopefully giving enough information to find it without a guidebook. Outer Space 5.9- ~7 pitches, *****, pro to 3.5 inches (nuts, medium hexes, handcrack cams, and larger Friend or two. Hike 2 miles up main trail from Snow Creek parking lot (bridge replaced 9/95), cut across creek to find a good climber's trail (don't try to bushwhack -- it gets ugly) to base of that there big cliff. Outer Space is the climb whose last two full pitches follow the beautiful finger/hand/big hand/fist if you're little crack up the huge "shield," the purtiest feature on the wall. Scope it from the hiking trail if you don't have a guidebook. Expect crowds on weekends. Day trip permits required and available at trailhead. The route description is as follows: 1) Stash your pack by the bent over maple tree, a little R of top of climber's trail. Say hello to any goats you may encounter. 2) Reach "Two tree ledge" (may now be known as "one tree ledge," or, after the fire, "Bar-B-Q Bench") by one of several options. The easiest is to walk R from maple, boulder up a ways, climb an easy dihedral to a short finger crack and a belay (5.6), then traverse L 70 meters (4th class.) 2a) Variation (Countdown): The BEST way to reach 2-tree ledge is to scramble up 10m from the maple, then wander generally leftward and up to a 2 bolt belay R of the base of a RFC capped by a 1 meter roof (5.6). Climb the corner and continue straight up past the roof towards the huge ledge. (5.10b, fairly short crux.) 2b) Variation: Jim Nelson's book recommends a 5.8ish variation just L of the 5.10 RFC/roof start. It is probably better than the standard approach, and worth doing if you are not up for the 5.10 section. 3) Climb up 15m from fixed bong at ledge, move R, traverse flake up and R to belay (5.9, good to set belay high to avoid rope drag on next pitch). 4) Work L up exposed but easy chickenheads to RFC. Climb corner to belay (5.8-). 5) Climb 5.7/5.8 crack 50m through sea o' chickenheads. 6) Same as above. 5.9 move from belay (note start of crack is further R than you may think) or exposed 5.8 variation. 7) Up and R past small roof (5.4, not much pro) 8) Descend by walking off L. Stay very wide of the cliff until you pass near a small spring (not always wet), then start traversing back in. Be careful not to drop too low after this -- the end of the descent contours along the slabby base of the wall. 9) Commune with the goats, who will be serenely chewing on any tin cans you may have left about.