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Outer Space
choice
of appetizer
(p2) [5.10b]
Traverse
left into the double flake cracks. Awesome jams and finger locks
up a RFC to beneath roof. Through the roof at small cracks just above
the RFC. Straight up weakness to "Two Tree Ledge". Good pro
up and through the roof.
Remorse start-
(p2) [5.6-9?]Climb
up right via either side of a big block to Two Tree Ledge. Easier
to right of block.
RPmorse start-
Original start-
(p2) 4th class on ledges left
to Two Tree Ledge. Longer than 50m.
(p4) [5.8]
Up
over the overlap to runout knobs. Head up and traverse left to a
big RFC. Up the RFC to the top of the Pillar. Belay on left side.
desert
(p6) [5.8]
Easiest
way to start the 6th pitch is going left up a big flake, then do not go up LFC but make an
airy step right onto huge chickenheads and traverse right one move to reunite with that
perfect handcrack.
The right start is pretty fun though (boulder move over the void, protected
above by a stopper). End pitch just above a spindly bush and belay off of med-small
cams.
(p7)
[5.4 R-] Go up giant chickenheads for short distance over bulge
(right).
Descent: Follow the trail
as best you can. Do NOT turn down the first gulley. Make your
way instead down the rocky spine past it. There's two non-trivial
downclimb sections. At a big pine, below the difficulties, head way right
all the way to the stream. Double back left on a tricky traverse that stays above the stream,
back to the wall. Head down a steep blocky gulley (with a big tree in it) about 30'
to soft forested ground then make a hard left to traverse N below the
wall. Most of the way is an obvious bootpath but it can be lost at times on the harder
(rocky) sections. Would be complicated at night if it's the first time you've done it. |
Eric Hirst's Leavenworth Miniguide Parking lot is 2.5 hours from Seattle via either SR-2 or I-90/SR-97. Get to the W end of Leavenworth and turn S on Icicle Road. Follow Icicle road for about 5-10 minutes to the Snow Creek Trailhead (on the left). Approach: Up a million switchbacks on Snow Creek trail `til just across from the wall. Follow faint path down to creek then go slightly right (downsteam) to crossing logs. Head back left upstream about 50 yards and find trail up through boulders and burnt-up trees. Takes about 1-1.5 hours. Legal bivy requires a permit. and hang up your stuff so nose goats gitsit.
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