> Does anyone on the NG ever climb?  It would be nice to see a few more TR's
> instead of all the useless technical drivel.  I personally like reading
> about other climbers adventures, hopes, and whatever.
>
> Ben
 

Not all reports of climbing are interesting.  Behold:

The weather is beginning to break in Seattle and we've had _consecutive_
days of clear skies!  I got up to Index last Thursday for a partial day
(needed to drop off the kids at daycare, and promised to be back by
7:30 to help put them to bed)

After dropping off the kids, then dicking around, going to the store, then
back to Mark's house (Did you bring your guidebook?  No, did you bring
yours?) we're off like a streak.

It's a glorious day.  Very sunny, slightly windy.  No bugs.
The rock is bone dry.  Even the continually dripping wall left of the slab
is mostly dry today.

Mark starts us off via Roger's Corner in one long lead, a mostly fun
climb with a few sections of choss.  I second hauling the extra rope on my
back and now get ready for Breakfast of Champions.  It starts with few
awkward thin jams then gives way to a bomber handcrack.  It's steep the
whole way with minimal resting possibilities.  Rated at 10a, this one didn't
get the grade adjustment for "sustained strenuous nature" often alotted to
ratings in other areas.  I want to spend as little time as possible
playing with gear so rack up with only the necessary cams (#1-#3 friends,
plus #3 Camalot I believe) on their own `biners.  I'm breathing pretty
hard by the top but otherwise the lead goes smoothly.  Mark, carrying
the second rope and all the rack I left behind, hangs once. The "loose
block" on BOC is now gone, leaving behind a sandy hole. Supposedly the
block disappeared the winter before last.  A key chalked up hold right at the
beginning sounded pretty hollow when some of my gear banged it.  Maybe
this route will be upped to 10b soon.

Next on the program, continue up via Beak Beak Beak.  Mark is pumped
from BOC and gives me the lead.  BBB has a big flakelike "beak" near
the start that you can supposedly lieback/undercling (?) around. I can't
figure out how to do that so resort to tunneling.  I mash my body
inside the flare behind the beak to grope the handcrack deep inside.
After this preliminary thrash the route eases. I take a right under the
big roof above and pop over it on the Newest Industry line.  Make sure you
place a piece to the right before surmounting the roof to keep the rope
from getting completely wedged in a crack on the underside of the roof to
the left.

I'd been looking at the topos in the Clint Cummins guidebook and
wondered whether you could link up with the fifth pitch of 10%
Meteorological Vinculation from here.  It looks clean so I give it a
try (Mark is still demurring the lead).  A clean low-angle finger crack
heads up to a stance below a slab with 2 bolts (This is the part marked
5.9+ in the guide. The finger crack bypasses the 10d section).  One move,
clip a screamer on the old rusty 1/4"'er, a few more slab moves and I'm at
a great ledge with awesome views out to snow covered Index, Baring and
Gunn Peaks.  Sunny but cool with the wind. No bugs.

Two single rope raps and a bit of walking get us back to the BOC anchors.
From here a full-rope-length free-hanging rappel lands us at our packs.

We're now running low on time, but figure we can get one or two more
pitches in.  I want to try leading Libra Crack, a 20' steep handcrack
right in the middle of a bunch of beginner lines.  I did it on toprope
years ago but floundered terribly.  This time it goes more smoothly. My
handjamming must have improved in 5 years! On my way up, a male from a
mixed party of beginners says, "That's a nice looking crack.  Does it
protect well?"  Mark's response is, "It's a crack."

Due to the well-positioned belay right at the crack,  I am able to run
the 50m rope to the top of the slab via Pisces.  Straining to stretch the
rope I am just able to loop a cordelette around the one large live tree at
the belay.

Mark reaches the top. It's 6:30. I'll be in trouble when I get home.

We have a couple of beers at the car while sorting the gear.  I see some
friends who have just returned from climbing Davis-Holland.  They seem
to dismiss me as a drunk loser when I have trouble pronouncing
10% Meteorological Vinculation.

Chuck