It's up by Columbia Peak. Across the '76 Glacier a bit. It was pretty cool. Check it out. It's in the Beckey guide. The rock is real solid.
On the way up we were in fog and drizzle from like Granite Falls on. Mark wanted to bail to Washington Pass, but I didn't want to sit in the car that long. So we got on our bikes and headed through the mist in to Monte Cristo. Didn't look good getting soaked by the mist and all. On the trail up to Poodle Dog pass we passed through one, two then three cloud layers until boom! We came out of the the last layer of fog and suddenly we're in bright sunshine looking out above the last layer up at the '76 Glacier and the Wilman Spires 'n shit.
Once
we were in the sun it got hot and humid. There was all this smoke
in the air from the fires. The black air was probably working like
a solar oven. We hiked up this steep ridge then traversed out across
the glacier. The glacier had real ice at a few spots. Our first
belay was in this shady hole in the moat. It was nice to be out of
the sun. Cush.
Mark started off on this cool flake traverse, then up this bomber layback, walking his boots up the slab. The rock was solid and totally clean down in the moat. When I followed my boots didn't feel secure. They skated a couple of times and I was gripped the rest of the day. Maybe it was a holdover from the stressful homelife lately.
The rock is sorta like sandstone. Very smooth with a fine-grain friction, but it's white and seems hard as granite. The abundant hold was a frictiony medium edge with rounded sides. Doable with mountain boots, but rock shoes would've been great.
Our route pretty much followed this
spine formed by the edge between some cutaway rock layers and the slab
of the outermost layer. We weaved back and forth across the spine.
On the second pitch I traversed left from the belay across the spine then
followed it up and back right until I was up on a little ledge right perched
straight above the belay.
It looked like we were to the right
of the original route. The Beckey guide says 4 pitches 5.1 and 4th.
The way we took was sustained 5.6 or so, 6 pitches. It's a real nice
climb. Wish I hadn't been gripped the whole time. 
One
of Mark's pitches had this sweet fist crack up a slab and on the last pitch
you climb right up this big weird-shaped flake that looks totally detached
but feels real solid.
The summit seemed pretty insecure, but maybe it was because I was gripped. The views were all hazy with brown smoke. Couldn't see Mt. Daniel or Glacier Peak. Could see Sloan. Found a crazy rap station down in a cave formed by this giant jumble of chockstones. You could downclimb for a ways into the jumble then you needed to rap down a 10 foot hole. My prussik got all hung up trying to squeeze down the hole with a pack on. That sucked.
After that it was a scramble down to just above glacier and one rap into the moat. I finished and ended the climb lounging in the moat. Filled up my water bottle at a drip and ate my first sandwich of the day about 6+pm. It was a very good sandwich.
The
walk out was righteous meadow sniffing. High above everything, walking
down this long steep meadowed ridge, heading due west, right into the sunset.
There was still fog in the valleys and the smoke made the sunset real red.
We had the headlamps on a little after nine, down in the foggy jungle. It was a long mile to the bikes, stumbling down one of those brutal old miner trails. The ride out in the dark was a total cruise. I'm amazed I didn't get launched by the rocks I couldn't see. It all worked out.
The celebratory beer at the car did me in. I was a zombie on the way home. Continually justifying to myself why it's OK to close my eyes for juuuuuuust a little bit and abandon Mark at the wheel. Sure glad I didn't drive.
