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Here's the 'before' shot. All I've done at this point is wipe down the
front with a wet rag. The whitewash will come right off with a little
Magic Eraser.
Although I've had the guts of an Asteroids before, this is the first
time I've had a complete cabinet. This shot shows the side with the most
scratches. There are a couple small areas that are worn down to the wood,
and several scratches. Even with that damage, it's still not too bad.
The monitor, plexiglass and cardboard monitor surround were filthy. There's
some burn in on the tube, you can see the high score table with the monitor
off.
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After a cleanup it looks pretty good! You can see the screen burn on
the monitor in this picture, but you don't notice it when playing. Believe
it or not replacement tubes are available for around $130. This is an
early Asteroids (serial# 12,424), you can tell by the gold text on the
left of the plastic bezel, later models had white text. Another sign is
that the monitor is a G05-801, later models used either a G05-802 or an
19V2000. The back of the control panel has a block of wood that the leaf
springs mount to, the later cabinets had no wood block and 'standard'
leaf switch button holders. The coin door should be the "owl-eye"
type, but it has been changed at some point.
The game is currently set on free play, as the mechanicals of the door
aren't in very good shape.
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Here's a shot of the better side of the cabinet after a light
cleaning. |
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There was no back door with the cabinet, but I have enough particle board
to make one. As with the picture above, I haven't cleaned inside it yet.
You can't see the power brick in this picture, but it's missing the main
fuse and the top of the fuse holder. There's also an unplugged wire at
the fuse block..
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This is a picture after I cleaned the inside of the cabinet,
and hammered the 'L' bracket back into shape. The bracket is to hold the
coin bucket in place. The game did not come with a bucket, and at this time
I don't have a spare. |
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The control panel isn't too bad. It's the original painted
metal panel, with just a few areas of paint loss. When I took this picture
I had just gone over the panel with a damp rag, after using a Magic Eraser
it came out really nice. Repoduction aluminum cones are available for only
$3 each at Arcadeshop. |
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I gave the boards a quick once over and didn't see anything too bad.
There was some traces of high heat on one resistor, but it metered out
fine. I replaced the two TL082's because I thought I had a board problem.
It turned out that the board worked fine, it was cold solder joints on
the monitor deflection board that needed fixing.
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The monitor is a G05-801. That's the earlier version of the black and
white vector monitor. My Omega Race has a G05-802.
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Here's a shot of the monitor after I cleaned it up with Simple
Green and a garden hose. I had a dot in the center of the screen and the
spot killer was on. It turned out to be cold solder joints on several connector
pins on the deflection board. I removed the board and removed/reflowed the
solder to the pins. |
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When I bought the cabinet it didn't have a back door. I had
some spare wood lying around, so I built a door from scratch. |
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Here you can see the original back door sheet stapled onto
the new door. You can also see the back of the ventilation slot and the
extra lip on the bottom that holds the door in place. |