TOOLS:

Cork-backed metal ruler.

KOH-I-NOOR Rapidographs & ink.





Tutorial: INKING

 





 

Alright, now whip out that metal ruler and the finest techpen you have. In this case, I'll be using my 3x0 Rapidograph. Ink all the straight lines on the page. For the long curved lines, use a french curve and the techpen. This is where I inked the sword sheath and the rim of the glass. The curves of the bottles in the background will be inked with a brush, so those have been left as is for now.

OPTIONAL: Take note of the re-drawn perspective lines in the first panel. What I did here is completely optional. I personally have a thing about bad perspective. To see the process I went through to get those penciled guidelines in there, click here.

If you want to merely be a "tracer", skip that option and just ink the original straight lines on there same as the rest of the page.

TIP: To get finer lines with your brush, just put a little bit of ink on the very tip. I usually use a plastic cap from a milk jug to hold the ink I dip my brush into. It's easier to gauge the amount of ink that is on the brush when you can see it.

 

Inked the first panel with the techpen and ruler and brushed in the curves of the bottles and other elements that are made up of short, unstraight lines. Also outlined the horse I somehow missed when I outlined the other figures. Oops. hehe.

 

 

Now, to finish off the backgrounds, we pick up the Hunt 102 crowquill along with some Higgins Black Magic ink. FW is good for brush but tends to clog up the quill and Black Magic is good for quill but doesn't work so well when it's applied by brush. Just so you know.

Anyway, the purpose of doing the small details like textures with a quill is to give the surface the feel that it's a different material than the brushed parts. This gives the page added depth...which is our job. On the front of the second story, I've inked the cracks and added some quick scratch marks. Some cracks turned out a little too heavy for my liking, so I'll probably thin them out later if they remain too noticeable. One thing you want to remember when adding your own cracks to surfaces is that most cracks start at the edge of an object and rarely stand alone in the middle. They tend to look out of place when they're out there unattached to anything.

I've also used the quill on the ground, since it's supposed to be dirty and gritty. I'll most likely add more specs of dust and filth later to heighten the contrast between it and the floor...but again, I'll wait to see how it looks toward completion of the page before I do.

To finish up the details, I inked the hatch marks that protrude from the shadow on the wall. They were made really quickly starting from thick to thin. It's much easier to do that with a quill and get decent results than it is with a brush. For a little bit of added roughness to the wall, I freehand traced the outer edge with the quill. The material the walls are made of wouldn't have perfectly smooth corners you know.

 

 

 

Here are the backgrounds of the other panels finished up. There wasn't much left to do but add some details to the bottles. This is where I took the opportunity to finish the faces of the people at the bar as well as inking some of the rougher textures such as the guy's sword handle in panel 2 and his "hair" in panel 5. With that done, we move onto inking the remainder of each figure...