Dynahoe 190 Main Hydraulic Pump.
For Model 190 Series 3, serial number over 50,000
WARNING! Check your main hydraulic pump drive.
There are 3 grease fittings.
Vickers Model 35VQ30A-11D20L
6 cubic inches per revolution. About 57GPM @ 3000PSI @ 2500 RPM. Weight: 50Lbs
Inlet O-ring: 2.5" O.D. 2.25" I.D. 1/8" thick, (actual .039") #228.
Outlet O-ring: 1.75" O.D. 1.5" I.D. 1/8" thick, (actual .039") #222.
A bad universal joint started this project.
I had been greasing the 2 universal joints in the hydraulic drive, but noticed
lots of slop in one of the bearings. After removing the pump, I found a third grease
fitting on the coupling end for the hydraulic pump spline.
It looks like it was never greased. This is a surprise, as the machine was
well maintained otherwise. The original owners had a hydraulic breaker
on the machine, and I think that probably helped chew up the universal joints
from the shock loading.
Pump removal:
Drain the hydraulic oil, about 20 Gallons. Remove the front access panel,
and the wire grill in front of the radiators. Remove the 4 small bolts that attach
the pump drive to the cranckshaft pully. Remove the return line from
the pump, cattch another gallon or 2 of oil. Remove the output line from the pump.
These are tricky bolts to get a wrench on. I had to use blocks and a steel bar to
lever aginst the wrench to get the bolts turning initially. Loosen the hose
clamp on the return line ( on the radiator side) so the return line can be turned
out of the way. Put a block or 2 under the pump to prevent it falling. Remove
the 2 bolts that mount the pump to the bracket. The pump probably won't fall out.
I had to lever it up from the front with a 2x4, and hammer it down from above
with a block and a 28 Oz rubber faced hammer. Several times. Be careful when it
gets loose, it doesn't take much of a bump with 50 lbs. to make a finger sore,
and it's a tight place to work.
Pump Disassembly
Inlet Support Plate. Note: The pump outlet port is pointed down for
all of these pictures.
Flex Side plate.
Ring & Rotor.
Ring removed. Note: try not to mix up the vanes, or let them fall out.
2nd Flex Side plate.
Outlet Support Plate. Note: flipped to show front side, as
the mark with the 5 is the only thing asymetric about it.
Bearing & input shaft. Remove the snap ring, and
the keeper ring that keep the bearing in place.
Press the bearing off of the input shaft.
More trouble...
The splines are almost stripped out! Notice the lack of grease.
After much searching, I found a new assembly at W. I. Clark.
I added Zerks for the slip joint / spline since the original had them.
The holes were 1/4", so I used 1/4 - 28 Helicoils & Permatex Threadlocker
Blue Gel to install the Zerks.
After re-arranging the cross bearing cups to get all 3 Zerks on one side, and painting.
It's hard enough to get the engine to stop in a position to get at the Zerks
- I want to be able to get all of them when it does land in the right position!
