How to convert a GT-6 to Toyota 5 speed overdrive:

      The idea for this project occurred to me over 5 years ago (after 4th gear exploded another stock transmission), and I started gathering the materials for it soon after. Those of you who know me will know how long I have had this car now (over 32 years), and that it is a everyday driver...as is the blue GT-6 that my wife now also owns. While hers is all original, I have changed mine some over the years to suit me- for instance, I used a 1600cc Ford engine and 4 speed transmission in it for many (12 plus) years...because of all the problems I had with the stock Triumph transmission. The Ford combination worked great and really spoiled me over the years, as there was practically no maintence or repairs. But the engine finally got enough miles on it to start smoking and using oil, and rather than rebuild it...I went nostalgic and put in another stock GT-6 engine and transmission, from the best of four GT-6 parts cars I had bought the year before. So, then I was back to the same problem I had in the past.....the  stock Triumph engine I really liked- but the transmission was full of the usual problems I had encountered years before. The Toyota 5 speed overdrive transmissions however are really great- extremely well made and long lasting, and with the benefit of the overdrive. As soon as you see the inside of one, you will understand! And for years I have known it is possible to adapt a different transmission into a car like this , as one of my old schoolmates did this over 20 years ago in a street rod. To do this project you will need access or services of a machine shop with a welder (I am lucky enough to own these tools), to make the adapter plates and mate the two different shafts.
      
      I have talked to a lot of other Triumph owners, and all of them I think mentioned the transmission usually giving trouble if they had it for a long while...regardless of the model. I suppose they are like almost all other British sports cars, in the respect that their transmissions (gearboxes) are somewhat fragile...along with other parts of the drivetrain, like the clutch and differential. Now, the GT-6's were particulary bad......with a lot of design problems and weak points. For example, I had reverse fail three times on the original gearbox...and it had a nasty habit of locking into third gear now and then, after the linkage got worn. The reverse gear parts (and some other parts) were not available from the dealers after a few years- mostly due to everyone having the same problems. I can't remember how many GT-6's I saw go to the junkyards through those years, just because people could not get the parts (or afford a rebuilt unit, about $1,000) at the time. Reverse is probably the biggest and most common problem, and two of the four parts cars I bought had the reverse broken. If you drive the car hard, the other gears and syncronizer rings will also come apart soon....and even if you drive it easy- the stock gearbox will wear out every hundred thousand miles or so. I think that the main reason for all of this, is that Triumph used pretty much the smaller Spitfire gearbox on the GT-6...the cases look identical side by side- but the gear ratios are different. The problem with this, is the six cylinder engine of the GT-6 is a lot more torque/horsepower than the Spitfire gearbox can handle, especially over a long period of time. If you have ever seen the engine and transmission out of the car (assembled)...you will notice right away the the gearbox is very tiny in porportion to the size of the engine..reminds me very much of the Jaguar 12 cylinder E types, and how the gearbox is rediculously tiny on them. Another thing I never liked on the GT-6 gearbox is the very tall 1st gear ratio- it feels more like 2nd gear, and is rather hard on cluth wear. Now, I understand the British logic for this (keeping the other gear ratios closer, and cornering speed up)....but if you want to be practical, a lower 1st gear and wider spacing of the other gears works better- in my opinion anyway. I had thought about converting over to the Triumph overdrive gearbox in the last few years (especially after gas prices went up)- but if you look at the design of it (see the drawing) you will see it is very complex (a "planetary" gear drive, shifted by a electric selinoid)- and I am thinking it would also have a lot of wear problems in time. Another problem with the stock Triumph overdrive unit is- you can't just bolt it on back of a standard gearbox (like it looks)...the output shaft is different, and you must have a overdrive gearbox to go along with the unit. Last time I priced all the parts involved (gearbox, overdrive unit, selinoid, switch, etc.) it was over $1,650 from Victoria British...a lot of money, for something that won't last long... Rimmer Bros. in England now has the parts available too- at better prices.....but you are still going to have all the design/wear problems, if you use the original Triumph transmissions. I also know a lot of sports car "purists" will comment about the "sacrilege" of using non-original parts....but I always have been a "racer" first- and if I find something that works better, I use it. Yes, I can appreciate a "all original" car too...and to satisfy the purist we have the wife's GT-6...and her all original '69 MG Midget.

      Now, having some extra parts cars/transmissions to play with was a great help on this project....letting me take my time to measure and fit everything to a spare engine, while still driving the car. And, it did take me a lot longer than expected... but mostly due to me trying to use a Celica transmission at first- then switching to a Corolla design. I had everything measured and figured to use the larger Celica gearbox, and even had the adapter plate cut and ready to drill- but ran into some big problems when trying to disassemble it to get the input shaft out. I am adding the photos/drawings for it with the others, to help explain the problem I ran into... I still think it is a good transmission to use, but mabe for a larger car...and the photos may give you some idea how to convert a different car this way. One nice thing about using the Celica gearbox, would be not needing two adapter plates...which does have to be done with the Corolla design. However, a neat point on the Corolla (T-50) type transmission, is the way it "slants" about 30 degrees off vertical...which allows all 5 of the Triumph bell housing bolts to be used- the Celica (W-50, and W-58) will only allow use of 4 bolts- you would have to omit the bottom one.

      So- to begin you will need to make the two adapter plates...but this is not such a big problem- the 1st adapter plate is simply a cutoff from a stock Corolla bell housing, which you should get when you find/purchase a gearbox from a salvage yard or wherever. (I bought a whole "parts car", a '84 Corolla SR-5)... After milling it almost all flat (all but the raised center, at the shaft points), it will become the front cover of the transmission, needed to seal in the oil and shafts. I just used a grinding wheel to rough saw the bell housing apart, it doesn't have to be pretty, as the milling will clean it all up. After it is finished, it will make a perfect template (pattern) for laying out the hole pattern in the 2nd adapter plate- which mates the different bolt patterns between the stock engine and new gearbox. I used a piece of 3/4 inch thick aluminum (type T-6061 I think, I got it from a scrap yard and it had no ID markings) for this plate...and you will need this thickness or more to accommodate the recesses for the bolt heads, on the bolt pattern/gearbox side...plus it will need this much thickness to handle the threads, from the bolt pattern of the engine side (or, the stock Triumph bell housing pattern) If you use a lathe to turn down a "transfer punch" custom sized to the metric hole size used in the 1st plate, then laying out the drill work on the 2nd plate will be very easy, and exact.

      When drilling the hole patterns in the 2nd adapter plate, I would keep the holes just large enough to accept the bolt shanks...as there won't be any dowel pins in the assembly to prevent slipping should the bolts ever work loose in time. I also increased the size of the threads and bolts on the engine side (from 3/8-24, to 7/16-20), as the holes in the stock bell housing on the Triumph engine are already the right size for the larger diameter bolts. Again for the same reason, so the shanks will act as dowel pins- plus the added strength. Make sure to make another custom transfer punch, this time using the Triumph bell housing to lay out the hole pattern...then this hole layout will be exact too. The center will have to be milled out to the shape you see in the photos, to clear the shaft points. Around the input shaft on the Toyota gearbox, is a four bolt sleeve attachment that the clutch release slides on...and luckily, it is the same diameter (within a few thousanths) as the sleeve used inside the Triumph bell housing- and also just the right length! You will need to press out the stock sleeve (with the locating pin in one side) from the bell housing, and turn the flange on it out just large enough to slide this new sleeve into...then press it back into the Triumph bell housing- and this will center the bell housing on the adapter plate exactly where it needs to be when you lay out the hole pattern for the 7/16"-20 threaded holes, that hold the Triumph bell housing to the plate. The last step in making the plate, is to mark and cut the outside edges to shape, after test assembling with the bolts in place.

      The next step is cutting and mating the two different input shafts together, and the adapter plates will have to be assembled onto the transmission (with bell housing) to mark the cut point on the Toyota. First cut the Triumph shaft just in front of the oil seal neck, while it is spinning in the lathe- this will give you a good square cut. Next, you will need to start a pilot hole, and continue drilling it out to 5/8" I.D., and at least 1 1/4" deep or more. Now- a few words about all this......Yes, these shafts are "case hardened" steel, and very, very, hard- on the outside. (I couldn't even make a mark, with a punch and hammer)...But the case hardening only goes about 1/8" deep into the metal- the inner part that you will be drilling into will be just like normal steel, of high quality. This I learned from talking to with my old friend who did this years before, on a V-8 powered street rod. He is a very good machinist- and amazed me even more when he told me he ran his like this, with just a interference fit between the two joined shafts- without even welding it! I am not that brave, I welded mine on top of the interference fit as well, just to be sure......So, after you get this shaft drilled out- I really suggest running a boring bar thru it (like in one of the photos), to take a few more thousanths out and get it perfectly true. After drilling I saw mine was about 5 thousanths larger at the top of the hole than the bottom, so truing it up is a good idea...it will make the next steps easier.

      After you get the Triumph shaft drilled and trued, you will know what diameter to turn down the Toyota shaft to- in order to get the interfefence fit. And, before you start turning it, you will need to mark the cutoff point, with the adapter plates/bell housing in place. The only way to turn down a hardened shaft like this, is with a toolpost grinder (or other grinder setup, I used a ball bearing air grinder clamped to the toolpost).....and this will not need to be turned down far- less than 1/10". You will want it EXACTLY .002" larger than the trued hole diameter in the other shaft- and this will give you the interference fit you need. After you get it turned down to this size, do the cutoff just like on the Triumph shaft- and the turned part will be approximatly 1 1/8" long. (and will still be case hardened material, as you did not go very deep) If you use masking tape like I did, you won't have to worry about getting grinding dust/particles in the bearings on the shaft- and leave it on until after you get the welding finished.

      Joining the shafts goes like this- the Toyota shaft half is frozen in the wife's refrigerator freezer for two hours or more... and the Triumph shaft is heated in the wife's oven, to 500 degrees for at least a hour.....they should slip together easily, but you will have to be quick! The temperatures between the metals change the fit within seconds- so be SURE to have a hammer/wooden blocks ready to tap it the rest of the way in, if it gets stuck...you will only get one chance at this! I was smart enough to have my hydralic press ready and waiting...and I did need it to get it in the last 1/4 inch or so- working quickly before it cooled and became permanent. When it comes to doing this step- be sure you are prepared...and be sure the hole and shaft diameters are "just right", with the .002" difference.

      Now, once you have them fit together with the interference fit, I suggest chucking the shaft up in the lathe and check it for runout- odds are it will be very close, but not perfect. Mine was off about .004", and I marked this "high point" where the weld is to be....so I will know to weld this portion first. (about 1/4 way around) The reason for this is the metal in the weld will shrink and draw it some- so this will pull the runout in the opposite direction. Then I finished welding the shaft, next opposite the weld 1/4 way- then the two sides to finish all around. I used a mig welder...and a tig (heliarc) might do better for this, if you have access/use of one. If you are a good welder, I think you will be fine with a mig, your choice on this...And last check the runout again after welding...mine was only .002" out after this- better than I had hoped for. Now you are ready to assemble the transmission and plates bellhousing together for the last time, with gaskets in place and ready to use. If you got the length right, about 1" of the shaft will extend out past the bell housing edge- just like the shaft did on the stock Triumph gearbox when assembled to the bell housing. (plus or minus 1/32") If the shaft's too long now, you may have to cut it off there at the pilot bushing tip- but if you measured it right you won't have any problems.

      Next you are ready to install the assembly into the car...and this will mean unbolting the stock transmission bracket from the frame, and making a new one from the Toyota original...along with some other modifications- like the driveshaft and shift lever. On the bracket, I cut off 6" on each side...then  tack welded it into the Triumph frame rails with it bolted on and in place. This is when I also saw I would need to drill a hole in the right rail for the speedometer cable to pass through...make it 3/8" at the top, and 1/4" at the bottom. (the top is larger or elongated to allow engine torque movement in the rubber mounts) After you mark where to make the hole, take the gearbox assembly back out to drill it at the proper angle- and finish welding up the rear mount/bracket at the same time. I also had to trim a bit of the flange on the right frame rail, for the gearbox case clearance...and some of the sheet metal over the spot where the driveshaft plugs in.(see the photo) Then assemble it back on the engine...now time to make the driveshaft.

      The driveshaft is fairly simple....you will cut off the stock Toyota driveshaft at 4" or so down the tube, as you see in the photo...and the Triumph driveshaft at 28", from the rear of this tube. This will shorten the assembly to the right length, and give you the right splined end to fit the Toyota gearbox. The overall length (shaft tip to rear flange) should be 37 1/2" or thereabouts...remember it must have some in-out movement in the gearbox. The Toyota tubing is small enough to slide inside the Triumph tube easily- I used masking tape in two "rings" to shim and center in up in the larger tube before welding. This will help keep it from drawing to one side or getting crooked while welding- which might throw it out of balance. I've made two other driveshafts this way over the years, and not had to re-balance them...but if you get the thing off center, or too much weld on on side, then you may need to have it balanced again. Try and keep a bowl of water handy when you weld it if you do so with the U-joints installed (as I did)...if you get them too hot you will melt or burn up the rubber grease seals, which will mean replacement of the whole U- joint.

      I did the speedometer cable next, using the stock Toyota inner cable.....and a special outer casing, made from most of the Toyota- except the last 8", which is the Triumph outer casing. They are both the same diameter on the outside, I just cut the casings with a grinder, removed the burrs, and epoxied them inside of a length of brass tubing (like a sleeve)...to the length of the stock Triumph casing. This will give you the proper threaded ends for the casing, and the inner cable the right drive end to fit in the gearbox. The opposite end of the cable that fits into the speedometer is the right size "square", just be sure you get the end far enough up into it. There is a 10% (exactly) difference in the speedometer gear ratios, between the Triumph gearbox and the Toyota...the Triumph speedometer will be 10% slower.(for example, it will read 90mph, when you are actually doing 100mph) This is correctable inside the Triumph speedometer, by re-setting the needle on it's axle shaft.....so you can re-calibrate the speed to where it should read when driving....but the odometer you will have to live with, and add 10% in the future on milage travled. The Triumph (like all British sports cars of the time) has a very easy to disassemble speedometer, so re-setting the speed is fairly easy...just be sure to leave a scribe mark on the "drum" inside (you will see what I mean) as a reference point, before you pull the indicator needle off it's shaft, to reset the speed up 10%. Then if you are off, you will know which way to move it to get it just right.

      The cutting and re-welding of the shift lever is next, using the Toyota bottom, and the Triumph end on top. The whole idea is to shorten it down to the proper length, and get the threaded end at the top for the Triumph shift knob. The Toyota lever has a couple of sharp bends just as it comes out of the gearbox case, to make it set farther back in the Corolla- here you will turn it around 180 degrees, and use this offset to move it forward. Since the Toyota transmission is longer, the shift lever is 3" farther to the rear, than where the Triumph was located...and by turning this around backwards, it will "gain" over 1" of this 3" back. The Toyota lever needs to be cut just at the second bend (in the middle of the bend is good, like I did) and then weld on the cutoff part of the stock Triumph lever (about 4" long). If you look in the photos, you will see the weld there where I painted it with red primer. The boot will cover the weld...and make sure you sit in the car and make sure it is "comfortable"- if not cut and re-weld it until it is. Mine is about 2" rearward, and 1" lower than where the original shift lever was...which is really more comfortable for me, along with the shorter "throw" (movement).

      Last is modifying the transmission cover (or "tunnel")...as the hole for the shifter is in a different spot. If you are still using the factory molded "hardboard" cover...you can just cut it off and add fiberglass to it as needed. In my case, I got rid of the stock cover years back...and custom made my own using fiberglass cloth made over a temporary form (made from 1/4" mesh hardware cloth, covered with wax paper/masking tape so it would not stick) The stock covers seem to start disintegrating/falling apart with time, so you might want to do this anyway, if the original is damaged. And, be SURE to pull out all the insulation inside the original cover if it is still there- this stuff keeps air from circulating around the gearbox, which helps keep it cool...and it is a fire hazard if it is oil soaked. While you are doing this you will want to hook up the backup/reverse light switch on the gearbox...and make sure the oil level is topped up at the fill plug. In the photos you will see I cut and lowered the top of my fiberglass cover about 3" while relocating the shifter hole...as more space is always nice in these tiny cars. Then the carpet needed attention- cutting a small square patch with the grain, to repair and relocate the hole in it. Then put the seats back in, ready to test drive.

      A few words about the Toyota T-50 and W-50/W-58 type transmissions......They are excellent designs, with seven big roller bearings supporting the shafts- compared to only four ball bearings and one bushing in the Triumph design. Inside the input shaft of the Toyota are some loose roller bearings (not in a cage), be sure you don't loose any when you disassemble it. And, other than splitting the cases, there is not much to take apart to get the input shaft out on the T-50...no snap rings or circlips at all. The shafts lift out very easily- but this is not so with the W-50/W-58 designs. As you see in the drawings, the cases split quite differently...with the shafts center bearings mounted in a plate. This is where I ran into the most trouble with the first gearbox, I was not able to get it apart completely at this center plate- and remove the input shaft. I disassembled it as far as I could...and am thinking there is a special tool prehaps needed to press or pull the shafts. Just by pure co-incidence, while I was struggling with this problem of getting the shafts out...my 17 year old son bought a '81 Corolla to drive as a work car- and the clutch in it failed about a week after he got it. The following weekend when we had the engine out of it to replace the clutch...I got to looking at the T-50 design, and after some quick measuring and studying the drawing on it- decided to get one to use rather than the W-58. So, I ended up buying the parts car you see in the photo, a good deal for only $100. (with a ruined engine and no title, sold at a auction)... I did not see any wear to speak of when I got the transmission apart, and was able to re-use the original gaskets. You will need to pick up a special sealer used between the case halves..it is like a paint of sorts, with aluminum particles in it to keep the heat transfer between the case halves even. There are substitutes available in most any auto parts stores, it doesn't have to be the OEM sealer. I'm not sure how much runout will be acceptable in the shafts after you mate the halves...but obviously if it is more than 8 to 10 thousanths, the bearings and drive gear may wear due to the excessive movement. So try and keep it as straight as possible, I think this is the most critical part.

      If you have questions or problems please look at the second text file here (which has some more details)- or ask me by e mail or on the message board.

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Below I'll try and answer some questions and tell you a bit more.

I will also offer to let you drive mine, if you have any doubts or want to see what it feels like before trying it on your own...It is such a pleasure to drive, with no more "scraping" of syncronizer rings when shifting- and no worry about backing up a steep hill with reverse. If you have driven a 5 speed Toyota- you know how smooth and precise they are. (with no freeplay in the linkage, study the design!)

The overdrive is right at 18% taller ratio wise (than the 1:1 ratio in 4th), so gas mileage will go up- nice on a trip! I drove it on a 800 mile trip 4 days after I finished putting it in- as a real "test", and ran it hard the whole trip- no problems whatsoever. Your top speed should increase to 136mph (theoretically, by my calculations).

Making the adapter plates is really quite simple, as the bell housing parts make the hole layouts very easy. The joining of the shafts is the most critical part, so take your time here- but the rest is dirt simple.

I mentioned taking out the insulation bag inside the gearbox tunnel cover- the new insulation or carpet underlayment will go OVER the cover, rather than inside- for a couple of reasons...so air moves through the tunnel more- which keeps the inside of the car cooler. (and they can be quite warm inside, in summer months). And as I said- to keep the gearbox itself cool- the airflow is completely blocked by the bag, and heat transfers through it to the cover. 

Think about it for a minute- it is backwards from the way it should be...and how many other cars (old or new) have you seen with such a bag around the gearbox? The insulation belongs sandwiched in the middle, between cover and carpet- like your house wall for example- to keep the warmer air out and the cooler air in...and did I mention the stock one is a fire hazard if oil soaked badly?

In the photos you see a stock transmission with #4 on it...this shows which parts car it came from (so I can remember)....and it is oil covered because I kept it topped up as much as possible, knowing the seals leaked.


On Tue, 18 Sep 2001 21:26:51 -0500, someone wrote:

>  Dan,
>       I really like your conversion, so much I might just try it. I do have
>  an overdrive to rebuild and install but the toyota would be much more
>  durable. This would be going in a Spit-6 .
>  
>  I do have a few questions:
>  
>  1. how do you handle the speedo connection.
... Ok, I put in a few words about this in the text on the yahoo website- but mabe you didn't see them, or I was not explicit enough. I would advise the download version of the text- a lot easier to read, the other text is all spread out over the page, and I have yet to figure out why. I know some about computers (cnc machines and such), but the internet I am still learning...into it about a year now, and just fascinated at all I see. The message board is new to me, I happened on it this past Sunday while surfing a bit. On the cable- you will use the toyota inner, unmodified in any way...the outer jacket or casing, is cut and re-joined together, using triumph at the top, and toyota at the bottom. The joined section will be under the dash, and out of the weather...so I think slipping them into a 4" or so length of brass tubing (telescoping thinwall type, from any hobby shop) and epoxying will hold fine (as mine does). I had the idea first to make a brass tube from heavy wall with set screws to hold the cable jackets- but the other is much simpler/quicker to make, so I tried it. Just cut the casings with a grinder and cutoff wheel, then de-burr the inner steel lining before you assemble it. Understand?....And, where the cable comes out of the toyota trans, is rather close to the right frame rail...lower and farther rearward...Too close to make a bend in the cable- so either you will need to drill a hole in the rail for it to pass thru, or use a right angle gearbox (a lot more work to make, but I can send you to part suppliers, like Small Parts Inc.-www.smallparts.com). Drilling a hole in the box tubing rail won't weaken it, I drilled a 5/16" hole thru both sides of the rail first, then enlarged the top hole just a bit, to oval (obround, to be exact), so the engine movement in the rubber mounts won't rub it. Just another 1/16" or so, top and bottom, to allow for the engine "torqueing" movement. The cable will come out of the frame rail under the passenger seat, with plenty of room to make a long bend back into the engine compartment and up to the dash.
>  
>  2. I'm not sure but which celica trans did you use (year) I guess I could
>  check via the number but I thought I'd ask.
...No, not a celica- you will want a corolla gearbox (T-50 type). I have two of the celica gearboxes now I don't need, lol...as I said I wasted a lot of time trying one of them first. The corollas (and some other toyotas) all used the T-50 gearbox...for example- I used one from the blue 1985 corolla in the photo, and saw the same gearbox on my son's '81 corolla, plus a couple more junkyard cars- so you will find it on any 1980's rear wheel drive version I think. It is easy to spot, in that it has that peculiar "slant"...in that the cases sit 30 degrees off from vertical, leaning to the left side at top. There are a LOT of these good transmissions in the junkyards- they outlast the engines several times over, just the opposite of the triumph.
>  
>  3. would you concider selling an an adapter plate and input shaft or
>  modifying one sent to you. I'm not a machinist but have welded alot and
>  have friends who have access to machine shop equipment but it might be
>  easier to get from you. Else do you have diagrams of the plate.
...Well, I saw no need to make a drawing of the plate, since you use the bell housing parts as templates(patterns) for hole layouts. The outer edge of the 2nd adapter plate can be marked where it is to be trimmed while you have it assembled to mark the shafts. I am a draftsman as well as a machinist, so if you really want a drawing I can send one...when I do the wife's car this winter and I'm into it again.......On the first part of the question- Yes, I will consider making the parts for you, if you supply the materials I need- toyota bell housing, input shafts, etc.....when I do my wife's car.(but just the parts you need help on- not the whole car!) Mass production is what I do in my basement machine shop...making runs of torque meters and CO2 engines for the model airplane hobby. I am not really needing/wanting any other work...as I am semi-retired now at the ripe age of 45, and this work and all my hobbies keeps me busy enough to suit me. So I work about 6 months of the year at the airplane stuff, and various other projects inbetween. (I was a engineering major in college, and have always worked with my hands) Nor will I claim to be any sort of expert on Triumphs- I just go with what I've learned thru my own experience over the years. My GT-6 really is my everyday driving car, I bought it back when I was 18, trading in my first car on it...a '61 MGB. It has countless miles on it now, and as I said I have changed it some to suit me over the years...So these cars are a lifelong love of mine- and my wife's- she learned to drive in that MGB.
>  
>  4. Was the Toyota input shaft too short, since you could have made one
>  clutch disk from a GT6 and Toyota. I guess the goal was to stay with clutch
>  parts that are readily available.
...Yes, the toyota shaft is too short...it won't reach the pilot bushing hole by a long ways. The idea did occur to me too though, so I looked at it for a bit...but beside this problem, there is quite a difference in the friction disk diameters. You could use the toyota disk inside the triumph pressure plate, but it is much smaller on the OD, and you will lose 30% or more area where it grips the disk. This means you will have a weak clutch- even if you do figure out how to extend the pilot bushing with a intermediate shaft or somesuch.
>  
>  5. Since the shifter is set back a bit, how is the feel.
 ....Well, I prefer the shifter farther back, and just where it is now. (same place as when I used the Ford engine/trans)- and I like the shorter throw of it. The pivot point is 3" rearward of the triumph setup, and about 1" lower...you can make the length taller if you want, like the stock triumph lever. My main reason for this length is so you don't have to move your arm off the armrest when shifting....and if you worry about the shortened length making it hard to find gears- then don't! The toyota is so precise and without any freeplay that finding gears is no problem at all- remember, you are losing all that triumph double jointed mess, which has lots of play, even when brand new. It was the same with the ford setup- and once you are spoiled, you won't want to go back to the triumph, ever.
>  
>  6. is the trans wider i.e. will the center radio bracket fit or does it
>  have to be modified.
.....No, it is not any wider, and you can use the radio mount just as before. The original cover will need to be modified at the rear, since the shifter hole will be different...and this is what I will do on the wife's car when I do hers. I figure just to re-shape it with fiberglass at the rear as needed- and keep hers looking all original.
>  
>  7. I believe you said the trans is lower ( not sure if I read that) but
>  does the heater box lower outlets clear the new tunnel.
.....Let's see.....No, I can't think of any heater box problems, the lower trans won't affect the heater in any way, if you use the stock cover as I mentioned above. And one can probably raise or lower the rear of the trans a inch or two...by changing the rear mount up/down- as long as it does not affect the engine- I tried to keep the "tilt" of the engine same as stock. And about that rear mount/bracket...you could just bolt it in the frame, sorta like the original was between the rails. I welded mine, since I knew this was the transmission of my dreams, and that I will likely never change it again.
>  
>  8. I guess the trans tunnel has to be custom made.
......Not at all- mine is custom made, simply because the original wore out and started falling apart....and I have had a lot of fiberglass experience over the years. You can add to the original with fiberglass, or use it as a pattern/mold to make a whole new one if you like...or as I did, making the mold from 1/4" hardware cloth (screen wire). The wire cloth is formed to the shape you want/need, then covered with saran wrap (or wax paper) and masking tape, so the wet fiberglass won't stick to it. Back in my younger days, I was into motorcycle roadracing- and this was the only way to get full racing fairings for some bikes- you made your own! I will brag about my homemade cover, in that it is stronger and only has two screws holding it at the rear- unlike the dozen or more screws needed to hold the original. And, some words about my custom dashboard...I have rebuilt it twice now, simplifying it more each time, and going to a one piece design....and eliminating the radio mount. This was all just personal preference- and I don't have any problems with reaching behind it to fix something, like with the stock setup. I still swear a lot when I have to work on the wife's dash, all the duct hoses and other mess in the way makes it a bear to get to anything. The only thing missing on my dash is the control cable for the heater box you mentioned- and I just turn the vents on by hand, reaching up under the dash to the heater box. I just turn them on in the winter months, then off again in summer...and that is that. If you live in a state like mine, then the weather won't have you changing it on and off- just as the seasons turn. Those Lucas switches also like to break in cold weather...a good reason to change to heavy duty/and amperage setups, if you are not a purist.
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>  9. Does the trans sit lower i.e. is there any issues with the exhaust
>  clearence or even yet will a header clear.
.....Well, I had no problem with the stock exhaust pipe setup I used, it clears the bottom of the gearbox fine. I can't say on the header...And on the right frame rail- the new gearbox touched there at the rail flange/lip in one spot (because of the slanted design, lots of room on the left side)... so I removed just enough of this edge to clear...about 2" long, and 1/2" deep. Mind you, this is just part of the box tubing flange edge- you are not cutting into the box tube itself.
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>  10. Does the 3.27 rear feel ample or would a 3.68 or 3.89 be better.
....The 3.27 rear end is perfect with this gearbox, in my opinion- and if you are close to the Oak Ridge TN area, you are MORE than welcome to visit and drive mine if you like, before you convert your own. I am more than happy to spend the time with another triumph owner.
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>  10. I think I bugged you enough for now. By the way, it looks very nice.
>....My pleasure,...hope it is of help- do ask if I can answer more...Dan
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>      The car is in primer now (3/06), prepping for repaint...new wheels and lots of other new parts all over since the T-50 installation.                     
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