Carlisle versus Ridge
May 2009 by Paul DeRose
I love wine match ups, particularly those that bring the classics head to head with the latest and greatest. Red Bordeaux versus California Cabernet, Red Burgundy versus New Zealand Pinot Noir, you name it. And when it comes to single vineyard Zinfandel, the name Ridge is about as classic as you can get. Carlisle, on the other hand, is one of the top young contenders for heir apparent, as attested to by the swoons of critics. Here's two single vineyard wines from Carlisle, one Zin and one Syrah, versus Ridge Geyserville, a Zinfandel blend that has always struck me as drinking somewhere in between a Zinfandel and a Syrah from the Northern Rhone.
89+ 2007 Carlisle Rossi Ranch Sonoma Valley Zin $40
99% Zinfandel, 1% Alicante Bouschet 15.1% alc
Color: Medium deep purple garnet. (3.0) Bouquet: High acidity propelling very ripe boysenberry and wild Zinberry with some heat. (3.0) Body: Heavyweight with excellent fruit and acidity. Some heat. (3.0) Flavor: Parallels bouquet, but not as forward with some cedar. (3.0) Finish: Parallels flavor with some bitterness, chalky acidity and black pepper lingering. (2.5)
Overall: Has lively, concentrated wild berry fruit supported by chalky acidity and some tannin. Acidity and some heat stick out at present and need time to integrate. Has the potential to improve in the next 2-5 years. If drinking now, decant for 2-3 hours. (14.5)92 2005 Ridge Geyserville $32
77% Zin, 17% Carignane, 6% Petite Sirah 14.6% alc
Color: Deep purple garnet. (3.0) Bouquet: Young and grapy with boysenberry and black raspberry fruit complemented by game and briar. (3.0) Body: Light heavyweight with a viscous mouthfeel. Excellent fruit, acidity and tannin. Structured, but also very well balanced with intensity. (3.5) Flavor: Tastes like gamy spiced meat with a mineral/earth tang. Solid mid-palate. (3.0) Finish: Parallels flavor, but even meatier with excellent length. Doesn't quit with briar and game lingering for nearly a minute. (3.5)
Overall: A beautiful, classic Geyserville! Has Zinberry fruit with intensity combined with game and briar, propelled by excellent acidity and some tannin. Excellent right now, but should be at its best in 3-6 years. (16.0)93+ 2007 Carlisle Papa's Block RRV Syrah $43
100% Syrah from Atoosa's Vineyard 15.0% alc
Color: Very deep black cherry purple garnet. (4.0) Bouquet: Very sweet black cherry with papaya and black plum. Lively and dense. (3.5) Body: Heavyweight that coats the mouth big-time with silk. Dense fruit, excellent acidity and good tannin. (3.5) Flavor: Parallels bouquet, but not quite as exotic. Shows sweet tobacco and black olives here. (3.0) Finish: Parallels flavor, but could be longer based on the impressive bouquet. (3.0)
Overall: Hedonistically delicious stuff that drinks terrific right now, but has the structure to improve in the next 2-5+ years. Shows impressive fruit concentration of black cherry, papaya, black olives and sweet tobacco combined with enough structure to give it perfect balance. This is likely to achieve greatness once given a little time to totally integrate and open further. (17.0)Final Impressions: The '05 Geyserville showed the most complexity and the longest, most impressive finish of the three. Similar to the Syrah, the Geyserville is drinking very well right now and has room to improve. The Rossi Ranch is young and fierce at present, but has enough fruit to even out with time, showing excellent potential. The Papa's Block won the day with its dense, multidimensional fruit combined with perfect balance. Repeating this exercise in about 5 years would tell us a lot.
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