Rowena Plateau - July 4, 2003

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• Pictures

Two golden eagles spiraled into the air above us, then dove into the Rowena Creek canyon so we could look down on them in their graceful search for lunch. Golden eagles were just one of the suprises we found in the Tom McCall Preserve on the Rowena Plateau at the eastern end of the Historic Columbia River Highway.

Much has been recorded about this first-ever east-west road through the Columbia River Gorge and how Samuel Lancaster designed the road to preserve and enhance the spectacular beauty of the Gorge's many waterfalls. What many do not realize is that Lancaster applied the same ethic to the eastern part of the highway.

In some sections Lancaster tunneled through the basalt, but not with your ordinary tunnels. He dug close to edge of the gorge and carved out "picture windows" so travelers could take in the magnificence of the Columbia River. Sadly these tunnels were destroyed or filled in when I-84 was constructed.

Today the Oregon Department of Transportation has restored the Hood River - Mosier section of the historic highway, including some of the tunnels at the Mosier end, and turned it into a biking/hiking trail. We've visited the Mosier end and toured the tunnels. It's definitely worth the trip.

This time, however, we explored the road east of Mosier (map). The highway climbs east out of Mosier onto the Rowena Plateau, an unexpectedly flat expanse at the very edge of the Columbia Gorge. Shaped by Missoula Flood waters and covered by volcanic ash from prehistoric eruptions this area hosts a wide variety of plants and animals, some of which are found nowhere else.

Here in 1927 Lancaster created the Rowena Crest viewpoint and here in 1978 the Nature Conservancy began protecting this area and its fragile environment. Helped by the personal interest of Oregon's Governor Tim McCall the Conservancy eventually established the Tom McCall Preserve. Today the Conservancy is actively striving to return the land to its original condition by removing non-native plants, especially knapweed.

Two trails begin from the Rowena Crest area (map). One trail leads to the top of the 1,722-foot McCall Point and the other traverses the Rowena Plateau. Amid the plateau's mounds and swales are several permanent ponds of remarkable beauty.

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Here's what we found on our visit -

	This sign greets you at the start of the plateau trail. The trail begins across the highway from the viewpoint at a style across the roadside fence.
	Across the gorge the Klickitat River empties into the Columbia. From 500 feet above the river it's easy to see how the Klickitat's sediments affect the Columbia.
	Speaking of the Columbia River, the vistas are breath-taking! The lake in the wooded area is part of Mayer State Park.
	This is one of the two permanent ponds on the plateau. Out on the flat area the winds were hot and strong. Here the trees softened the winds to a gentle cooling breeze.
	The plateau continues to the very edge of the gorge. Yes, there are no guard rails.
	The trail ends on that rock ridge to the left. The official distance is 1 mile but our guess is that we covered more than that by wandering around on side paths.
	A picture of Diane at trail's end, just to show she made it!
	A side path leads to the very edge of the gorge. It's several hundred feet down to I-84, so we stepped very carefully.
	The Historic Columbia River Highway from Rowena Crest viewpoint. Every time we're here we thank Samuel Lancaster for his efforts in sparing the scenic beauty of this part of the Columbia River Gorge.

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