Lesson 1: Basic Photography
Using your own digital camera or one of the school's digital cameras,
you will capture images in each of the following styles in and around
the school grounds. Each style will be a project.
- Beginning with Leading Line, you will capture several images
(showing Leading Lines)
- Import images into Photoshop
- Select 3 of your best shots
- You can crop, but not filter or stylize at this time
- You will present your three photos to the class using projector
- class will offer critiques using Photography/Artistic language
- Begin again with Rhythm, and then .....
Project 1.1: Leading
Line: a line that leads you visually to an object.
Research:
Project 1.2: Rhythm
a picture that has objects that repeat and give a feeling
of depth.
Rhythm (Basics
of Graphic Design)
Rhythm is a pattern created by repeating elements that are varied.
Repetition (repeating similar elements in a consistent manner) and
variation (a change in the form, size, or position of the elements)
are the keys to visual rhythm. Placing elements in a layout at regular
intervals creates a smooth, even rhythm and a calm, relaxing mood.
Sudden changes in the size and spacing of elements creates a fast,
lively rhythm and an exciting mood.
To create rhythm:
- Repeat a series of similarly shaped elements, with even white
spaces between each, to create a regular rhythm.
- Repeat a series of progressively larger elements with larger
white spaces between each for a progressive rhythm.
- Alternate dark, bold type and light, thin type.
- Alternate dark pages (with lots of type or dark graphics) with
light pages (with less type and light-colored graphics).
- Repeat a similar shape in various areas of a layout.
- Repeat the same element in the same position on every page of
a printed publication such as a newsletter.
Additional Resources for "Rhythm":
Project 1.3: Framing
shooting through something to get the main subject behind
it.
A photographic frame is an object that that acts as a border or
frame for your subject. The frame directs the viewer?s attention
to a particular subject or point of interest within the photograph.
Frames also create perspective and show depth.
What the experts say:
Project 1.4: Composition:
Viewpoint
The proper viewpoint or camera angle is an important factor in
good composition. Repositioning your subject within the viewfinder
frame and changing the camera viewpoint or camera angle are two
simple ways of controlling composition.
Project 1.5: Composition:
Focus
The standard definitions of focus are:
- The position at which rays of light from a lens converge to
form a clear and sharply defined image on a focal plane.
- The action of adjusting the distance between the lens and subject
to make light rays converge to form a clear and sharply defined
image of the subject.
Most people take pictures in auto focus - just point and shoot.
Auto focus will only allow you to get so close to your subject so
trying to take extreme close-ups require you to override the auto
focus with manual or macro mode and manually adjusting the camera
settings.
The first setting we need to consider is the setting of the aperture
or the f-stop. An aperture is basically a hole in which light is
admitted. The lens aperture is usually specified as an f-number
or f-stop, the ratio of focal length to effective aperture diameter.
A lens typically has a set of marked “f-stops” that
the f-number can be set to. The very basics you need to remember
is a big number is a small hole, so f/22 is a very small aperture,
small hole, less light so longer exposure. Something like f/1.8
is a very large aperture, more light and faster shutter speed (shorter
exposure). Your picture should focus on your subject only and blur
background and/or foreground - giving you short depth-of-field.
To maximize the blur effect and turn backgrounds into soft blends
of color, try your lens's largest aperture (smallest f/stop number).
You should shoot several versions of the same scene, each with a
different f/stop and compare the different "looks."
The second setting we need to consider is the setting of the shutter
speed. Shutter speed is a measure of how long the shutter remains
open when the picture is taken. On manual cameras, it is usually
set by means of a dial on the top of the camera or, less commonly,
a ring around the base of the lens. Automatic cameras usually denote
shutter priority mode with the symbol Tv which simply means "Time
value". Typical shutter speeds are 1/1000s, 1/250s, 1/15s and
1s. Note that shutter speeds are calibrated to be approximately
twice as fast as the previous setting and twice as slow as the next
setting. For example, 1/250s is twice as fast as the previous setting
1/125s but is twice as slow as the next setting 1/500s.
How to accurately set the THS cameras
Project 1.6: Composition:
Depth of Field
Depth of field is the range of distance within the subject that
is acceptably sharp. The depth of field varies depending on camera
type, aperture and focusing distance, although print size and viewing
distance can influence our perception of it. This section is designed
to give a better intuitive and technical understanding for photography,
and provides a depth of field calculator to show how it varies with
your camera settings.
Project 1.7: Composition:
Rule of Thirds.
The Rule of Thirds is a basic composition rule popular among photographers,
but equally applicable to the composition of paintings. Applying
the rule of thirds to a painting means you'll never have a painting
that's split in half, either vertically or horizontally, nor one
with the main focus right in the center like a bull's-eye.
Project 1.8: Composition:
Horizontal orientation appears peaceful while Vertical
orientation shows strength.
Often in photography, the subject or scene will suggest a vertical
or horizontal format but you should experiment with different orientations
to see the differences and how the differences convey different
stories or emotions.
Notes from the professionals:
Project 1.9: Balance
- Informal and Formal
Informal Balance different things catch your
eye, not just one. (multiple objects - tends to be asymmetrical).
In asymmetrical balance the imaginary central
pivot point is still presumed to be present; however,
instead of mirror images on each side of the picture area, the subject
elements are notably different in size, shape, weight, tone, and
placement. Balance is established by equalizing the
element forces in spite
of their differences. Asymmetrical balance
is introduced when the presumed weight of two or more lighter objects
is equalized by a single heavier object placed on the other side
of the imaginary pivot point.
- Integrated
Publishing: Photography
- Bethel
High School Photography Class
- Picture
Correct - Balance
Formal Balance both sides of the picture are similar
(symmetrical).
Symmetrical, or formal, balance in a photograph is achieved when
elements on both sides of the picture are of equal weight. The idea
of formal balance can be related to a seesaw, When there are two
equally weighted objects on the seesaw and they are equidistant
from the pivot point, or fulcrum, the board will be in balance.
- Deviant
Art: Symmetrical Photography
- Bethel
High School Photography Class
- Syed
Nasir's Photography Blog
Project 1.10:
Motion
There are three ways that you can express motion in a still photo:
- Freezing the motion
- freeze the motion of the subject along with the motion of
the background at very high shutter speed, usually at least
1/300 or higher
- Motion blur of just the subject while the the background is
clear
- blur the foreground and subject in motion with a clear scene
or backgrund requires a slow shutter speed, usually at least
1/100 or lower which may require a tripod to keep from shaking.
- Motion blur of just the background while the subject is clear
- This technique is called panning and can be difficult. The
photographer uses a slower shutter speed and moves the camera
at the same rate as the moving subject - you pan your camera
with the subject.
- Picture
Correct.com
- Shutter
Speed Lesson
- Photography
Techniques 101
- Michelle's
lesson in Photography
Project 1.11:
High Key very bright, intense, active.
A high-key photo is basically white on white. This style of photography
conveys a feeling of lightness and clarity. Intentionally overexposing
a photograph can create a fascinating image that tells a beautiful
story. High key photography can be achieved by adjusting your camera
settings or by using your photoshop high key feature.
- BetterPhoto
Photography
- HighKeyPhotography
- Best
Photo Lessons.com - High Key
- Digital
Photography - High and Low Key
Project 1.12:
Low Key dark, less intense, inactive.
A low key photograph evokes mystery, night and secrets.
Silhouette and shape prevail over color and light. In order to separate
the subject from the background, an edge light is in order. Objects
lit from behind, hiding the source from the lens approach the eye
in a direct manner, flaunting their power while reveling in the
dark.
- Wikipedia
- Low Key Lighting
- Photo
Correct - Low
- Best
Photo Lessons .com - Low Key
- DIgital
Photography Lesson - Exposure
Project 1.13:
Recipe
This project should pull together the elements you
have learned in lesson 1 - Basic Photography.
Food Photography is big business. It is also very
beautiful. Your project is to prepare a dish at home and photograph
each step. Look at your cookbooks at home, the library or online
for format layout ideas. You will present your recipe as a PowerPoint
presentation. Your first slide and your last sllide will be your
"beauty shot" - a beautiful shot of the finished product.
The slides in-between will be of each step in the process and should
concentrate on function rather than esthetics. Extra credit if you
also bring your dish to class to share.
7 Elements to be included:
- Rule of Thirds
- Leading lines
- Rhythm
- Balance
- Framing
- Viewpoint
- Depth of Field
Presenting
Monday, November 24 |
Presenting
Monday, November 25 |
Amanda |
Chenylle |
Kali |
Alex |
Nikki |
Thomas |
Emily |
Chelsea |
Shauna |
Anthony |
|