Garden Railroad Articles
Most of the following articles were written for the NCGR Time Table, the newsletter of the Northern Colorado Garden Railroaders. With the help of some established garden railroaders in the area, I founded the club and began publishing the newsletter, both of which have been a very rewarding experience. As all of us, I am still learning about this wonderful hobby. There are many solutions to every problem you will encounter, and many people claiming their solutions are the best. My opinions are just that, my opinions.
Index -
The Ruling
Grade by Del Tapparo (NCGR Time Table, April
2000)
Lessons Learned
by Del Tapparo (NCGR Time Table, May 2001)
Using
a Water Level to Set Track Elevations by Del
Tapparo (NCGR Time Table, July 2001)
Garden
Railroading - A Journey, Not a Destination by
Del Tapparo (NCGR Time Table, August 2001)
Maintaining
the Fun by Del Tapparo (NCGR Time Table, October
2001)
Why
Garden Railroading Appeals to Me by Del Tapparo
(NCGR Time Table, January 2002)
Thinking
About a Water Feature for Your Garden Railroad?
by Del Tapparo (NCGR Time Table, March 2002)
My Other
Club is MyLargeScale.com by Del
Tapparo (NCGR Time Table, April 2002)
Easy Coal Loads
by Del Tapparo (NCGR Time Table, May 2002)
Large Scale Shopping
by Del Tapparo (NCGR Time Table, May 2002)
A
Building is Only as Good as its Foundaton
by Del Tapparo (NCGR Time Table, August 2002)
Build a Simple
Crossbuck by Del Tapparo (NCGR
Time Table, October 2002)
Transporting,
Storing, and Controlling Large Scale Trains by
Del Tapparo (NCGR Time Table, November 2002)
The Ruling Grade by Del Tapparo (NCGR Time Table, April 2000)
When visiting garden railways, a typical question I ask is: What is your maximum grade? The response I usually hear is: I don’t know, about 3-4% I guess. I don’t think most people have actually taken the time to measure grade. They just "eyeball" it. If the engine can’t make it up the hill, it’s probably a steep grade!
The grade of your track is the amount of elevation change in the track for a given length of track. This is usually expressed as a percentage. The typical maximum grade for both model and prototype railroads is around 3%. A 3% grade means a 3 inch change in elevation for every 100 inches traveled.
How do you measure a 3% grade?
You can buy a Plumber’s level that has bubble marks for
1/8", 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" change in
elevation per linear ft. This equates to 1%, 2.1%,3.1%, and 4.2%
grades. Mount it on a flat car along with a cheap line level to
measure side to side level, and you have a rolling inspection
car. Try this on your existing track. You may be surprised what
you find!
Or, for a fixed grade measurement, you can shim up your carpenter’s level with a wood block on one end. e.g. A 24" level with a 1/2" block will read level on a 2.1% grade ( .5 / 24 = .021). Or, just measure the height you have to raise the level to make it read level and calculate the grade using the formula: (height / length of level) X 100 = % Grade.
(Back to Index)
Lessons Learned by Del Tapparo (NCGR Time Table, May 2001)
Now that I have had "some" experience in the world of garden railroading, I figure it is time I start professing my knowledge to others, especially those just getting started. (Actually, the NCGR Times needs a little filler this month!). The way I see it, I do have "some" experience. I have been through phase one of the construction process, laid some track and made it operational, procured some rolling stock and "bashed" some of it a little. And, I have laid out some bucks for the motive power and sound systems, which I have installed myself. I’ve now built a couple of bridges and some trestle. So, there are many of you out there with much more experience than I, and some not. The following will be my point of view and my recommendations, and certainly not the only or best way to do it. I am sure much of this will be only common sense to some, but may help others.
Lessons Learned on the D&L -
(Back to Index)
Using a Water Level to Set Track Elevations by Del Tapparo (NCGR Time Table, July 2001)
Nearly every railroad will have grades, either by design, or just due to the natural lay of the land. Grades add interest to the railroad, but if not done properly, they can also be an operational hazard. A ruling grade can easily dictate operation in only one direction, downhill. And then, your train may look more like a speeding roller coaster than the morning milk run.
A water level is a simple means of transferring a known height or elevation over a relatively long distance, say 10 to 100 feet. Carpenters have used this for years to establish level lines around a kitchen to hang cabinets. The principle is simple. If you fill a U-shaped transparent tube with water, the water will seek its own level on both sides of the tube. If you lengthen the tube (to say 50 feet, e.g. clear plastic tubing), and hold both ends higher than the water level, the water level on both sides will still be at identical heights. As long as both ends are higher than the rest of the tubing, and there are no air bubbles trapped in the tube, it won’t matter how many bends or loops are in the tube, or how many ups, downs and corners it has to go around, the levels will match exactly! However, the simple tubing water level requires two people to operate it. There is a better way!
The one-man water level consists of a clear plastic tube stuck in a large volume of water, on the reference end, and an open tube in the hand of the operator on the other end. I use a clear plastic container that holds about 1 quart of water. A one gallon plastic milk jug would also work. The length of the tubing is determined by the distance from your reference point to the farthest measurement point.
To construct your water level, drill or cut a hole in the center of the container’s lid that will provide a tight fit of your plastic tubing without restricting it. Insert one end of the tubing through the lid, so the tube is near the bottom of the container when the lid is on. You do NOT want an air tight connection here. Punch a small breather hole in the lid if needed. Now find a plug for the other end of the tubing to keep water from spilling out in between measurements. I used an electrical twist-on connector like you would find in your light switch wiring.
To setup the water level, fill the container nearly full of water and put the lid on with the tube extending into the water. Pick a reference level at a specific spot near the railroad that is at least a foot higher than the ground level near the measurement site. My railroad has a landscape timber box frame around it, so I use the top of the landscape timber at the northwest corner of the box as elevation 0.0" for all measurements, shimming the height of the container as needed for the specific measurement. Now siphon some water out of the container to fill the tubing with water. Let the water flow until there are absolutely no bubbles in the line. This is also the opportunity to make the calculations easier. I drain the water level of the container down to an even measurement like exactly 10" above my reference point. Now cap off the open end of the tube until you are ready to make a measurement. You don’t want to lose any water or your reference will change slightly.
And finally, to measure elevation, drive a stake at the measurement site. The top of the stake should be somewhat higher than the desired elevation. Bring the tubing to the stake, taking any route that is convenient. Just make sure the only point in the tubing higher than the desired elevation is the end in your hand. Remove the plug and hold the tubing next to your stake. When the water level settles out, mark the stake at the water level. You now know that the mark is exactly 10" above your reference point (if you set it up for 10"). If your desired elevation is 7 1/4", simple measure down 10" - 7 1/4" = 2 3/4" from the 10" mark. Mark the stake and label it 7 1/4". Now how do you use this mark to lay track? Cut off the stake at the 7 1/4" mark. You may want to label the top of the stake so it will be readable after you fill in around it. You now have an easy marker to tell you when the surrounding landscape is at the proper level. By placing stakes every 3 feet or so along the track right-of-way, you will be able to see exactly what needs to be done. When your ready to lay track, place it right on top of the stakes (and the proper ballast of course). You can check the grade between stakes using a level, or just eyeball it. (See the Ruling Grade).
While this explanation is rather lengthy, it is really quite
easy once you’ve tried it. The whole measurement process
takes only a few minutes. Your efforts will be rewarded with good
looking track work that should provide years of trouble free
operation.
References:
1. Garden Railway Design: Site selection, surveying, and layout,
by Jack Verducci, Garden Railways magazine, February 1997
2. The Large-Scale Model Railroading Handbook, by Robert
Schleicher, Krause Publications, 1992
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Garden Railroading - A Journey, Not a Destination by Del Tapparo (NCGR Time Table, August 2001)
People at work, neighbors, and relatives continually keep asking me the same question. Is it finished yet? "No, it well never be finished", I reply. "This is a hobby, not a weekend project". This hobby attracts individuals from all walks of life, but I think it is an engineering type of hobby (no pun intended). Many of us enjoy the design and implementation of the railroad more than the actual operation of it. That is why so many model railroaders keep finding excuses to build another layout. I think we are all "tinkerers" at heart. We just keep trying and fiddling to make it better or just different from the other guy's stuff, or just enjoy the challenge of the problems at hand, which may involve any number of different skills. Part of the fun is learning the new skills.
Our activity in this hobby can be modeled by a continuous cycle of Research, Implementation, Operation, and Maintenance. We conceive of an idea or project, learn enough about it to jump in head first and start building it. Then we test the results through operation or actual use to see how it turned out. We then soon discover, that along with the rewards of seeing our project in operation, comes the potential pain and agony of maintenance and repairs. The operation and maintenance serve as feedback telling us what we like and don't like, which leads to more research and new projects.
Each phase of the cycle can be work or fun, and it may depend on how many times you have personally been through the cycle.
Research and design can be fun, but there comes a time when you have to just get out there and do it. Research your project to the point where you have some sort of plan and understand what you are about to undertake. Learn from the experience of others through the Internet, magazines, and clubs. However, there are many things that will just never come to light until you get some hands on experience. There comes a time when you just have to get out there and do it.
Implementation (purchasing, construction, or modification) is fun because this is where you get to see your ideas come to life. Buying is fun, but most everything you buy will carry some kind of baggage along with it. It may be a question of how much work do you want to do to get there? Multi-year projects can be overwhelming. Be committed. Plan your work in phases so that you can see all aspects of the hobby in a relatively short time. Each time you go through the cycle you learn more. If you get stuck in the construction phase for life, you may never see the rewards.
Operation. To some this may be the goal. Just sit back and run trains. But I don't really know anyone that does that alone for any length of time. It's time to show off your efforts to others. Indeed, this is the reward we were waiting for, but we will undoubtedly find fault with some aspect of the result. This is called learning from your mistakes. It spawns new ideas for improvements to correct problems or expansion of good ideas.
Maintenance. You will soon realize there is maintenance involved in keeping your idea alive. Some may be routine operating setup, some preventive, and there will always be repairs. This too can be fun. But how you research, implement, and operate will somewhat dictate how much and what kind of maintenance you have. Again, you will learn from experience, and get new ideas for improvements.
More research, more projects ... Why do we do this? Each one of us probably enjoys one phase more than the other, but the common ground is - We enjoy it! And, the journey continues.
(Back to Index)
Maintaining the Fun by Del Tapparo (NCGR Time Table, October 2001)
Having operated a garden railroad for a while, you will soon
realize there is maintenance involved. Time must be devoted to
keeping things running properly. Every design decision and
purchase you make will affect the level of maintenance required
on your railroad. The bad news is: Every new project you take on
may require some degree of added maintenance in the future. Your
growing empire can easily turn into a maintenance nightmare. This
is one good reason to keep your railroad at a size that will
allow you to maintain the level of quality you desire, without an
overwhelming amount of work. The good news is: Most of us enjoy
this kind of stuff or we probably wouldn’t be in the hobby
to begin with.
Here are some of the more common maintenance tasks. Some of these
are nothing but part of the hobby, i.e. what we garden
railroaders consider fun. Others may be pure drudgery for you,
and you may want to implement features in your railroad that will
reduce or eliminate the task altogether.
Routine Maintenance -
Routine Maintenance is done on a continuous basis to keep things
looking and operating to your personal level of satisfaction.
Some common tasks -
Garden - debris removal, weeding, pruning
Pond - feeding fish , cleaning, water treatment
Structures - cleaning, figure arrangement
Preventive Maintenance -
Preventive Maintenance is intended to prevent failures. By
design, some things require periodic attention to keep them
working properly. If neglected, a failure will undoubtedly occur.
This is usually done on a periodic basis. Some common tasks -
Locomotives & Rolling Stock - lubrication, wheel cleaning,
power pickup inspection, wheel gauge inspection, coupler
inspection, body wash
Track - grade and level inspection, ballast replenishment,
electrical continuity test of turnouts and joints,
Structures - inspect for damage and weathering
Landscape - repair washouts, reinforce loose rocks
Problems, Repairs & Modifications -
It broke, now you need to fix it, replace it, throw it away, or
perhaps redesign it. Needed repairs can accumulate in a hurry.
Minor annoyances can add up to operating disaster during your
open house, if not attended to. If you don’t have time to
fix it when you see it, take note of it for repair at a later
date. A dry erase board, log book, or some means of recording
needed repairs or modifications makes it easier to remember what
needs to be done and why.
Some common problems …
Intermittent power to locomotive
Derailments
Unwanted decoupling
Incompatible equipment
Sound system dead or intermittent
Right-of-way damage or blockage due to animals
Some common repairs …
Repainting and refurbishing structures
Ballast washouts
Replacing turnouts
Some common modifications to equipment …
Couplers
Lettering
Installing sound system
Set Up -
No matter what kind of equipment you own or how you designed your
railroad, there is probably some amount of work involved in
getting it ready to run, and some more to shut it down between
operating sessions. Some common tasks (this will vary greatly
between railroads) -
Clear the right-of-way of plants and debris
Track Cleaning (if powered through the rails)
Turnout inspection / cleaning
Power supply and control system setup and teardown
Moving train(s) from storage to track, and track to storage
Assembling the train consist
Test running train(s)
Your lists may be different than mine. Just be aware of the need
for preventive maintenance in addition to trying to stay ahead of
the repair needs. Keep track of what you need to do so it
isn’t forgotten until tour day. If you have a job you really
don’t like doing, ask others how they deal with the problem,
or try to figure out a way to just eliminate it altogether. In
any event, a little organization will go a long way in
maintaining your railroad. It is a huge investment in both time
and money, so maintain the railroad to maintain the fun.
(Back to Index)
Why
Garden Railroading Appeals to Me by Del Tapparo
(NCGR Time Table, January 2002)
Model railroading and 1:1 rail fanning appeal to millions of
people around the world. 73% of all model railroading is done in
HO scale compared to only 10% in large scale. But large-scale
trains and garden railroading are growing fast. So assuming you
are already a rail fan of some sort, why would you be attracted
to large-scale garden railroading?
My limited experience with indoor model railroading as an adult
has been in N scale. I must say I had a couple of years of
thorough enjoyment with my little pike in the basement. It was
about 4 X 8 ft., as most start out, but in N scale you can pack a
lot of operation into that space. I had a lot of industrial
switching, a reverse loop, over and under, tunnel, continuous
running, a small yard, etc. I would run computer generated switch
lists for hours on end. It was fun. But it was also lonely. I was
the proverbial “lone wolf”. It was just me and the
trains. Very few have ever seen my N-scale railroad. My family
had little interest, and most visitors would only spend a couple
of polite moments staring at the little rails on a pile of 2 X
4’s and plywood, while I explained, “I still have to
add the scenery”. Actually, as many before me, I never did
make it to the scenery stage. I thought I was saving that effort
for the “basement filling” empire of my dreams (which
had a costly prerequisite of remodeling the basement and a
lengthy timeline). Truth be known - I’ve decided I’m
not an artist, and even after reading I don’t know how many
“Easy Scenery” books, it still scares me. And painting
a backdrop? A lousy backdrop can ruin an otherwise beautiful
model railroad.
Garden Railroading has Natural Scenery -
I think this is the key difference between indoor model
railroading and outdoor garden railroading. With garden
railroading, the instant the track hits the ground, you have
scenery. And from that point on, it just keeps changing. You
don’t have to spend the next 10 years trying to hide lumber.
Even if it is plain old dirt, it is better than plywood and
Homosote any day. You don’t have to learn how to make
realistic rocks, because you use the real thing! For me, it is
much easier to relate to landscaping techniques using a shovel,
than it is to become an artist in HO or N scale using a
paintbrush. The landscaping may take some preparation before you
are ready to run trains, but it is all very “do-able”.
Large Scale Trains Compliment your Backyard -
Most people can easily relate to a beautiful backyard. Features
like flowerbeds, walkways, patios, and ponds all add interest to
our backyards. During routine visits and conversation, your
friends and neighbors will soon learn of your unusual creation.
They will be fascinated that you have incorporated trains into
your backyard landscape. Since you will now be spending more time
in your backyard with the trains, you will likely make other
improvements to increase the enjoyment.
Large Scale Trains are Closer to the Proto-type -
Large-scale trains are easier to see and work on, especially for
those of us over 50. When you pick them up, they have some heft
to them. It just seems more exciting to see the larger trains
running down a track. When you view a garden railroad, you
usually feel like a part of it rather than just looking at it.
And, with the addition of sound, the locomotives really make
their presence known. Outdoors you will deal with weather, track
obstructions, and animals just like the proto-type does.
Garden Railroading is Rewarding -
There will be far more opportunities to share your outdoor
railroad with others, than if it were in the basement. Since your
outdoor railroad is probably only semi-private at best, expect to
share it. This is half the fun. People are attracted to a garden
railroad. They want to see it. They are eager to learn how it all
works and how you built it. They want to tell their friends and
relatives about it. Their faces will light up with the child-like
fascination of trains that both young and old seem to share. It
is very rewarding to see others enjoy your accomplishments. You
will make many new acquaintances, some of which may last a
lifetime.
Garden Railroading Requires a Variety of Skills -
This is an intriguing part of the hobby in any scale. There are a
wide variety of skills required to build any model railroad.
Learning new skills and how to use new tools is certainly part of
the fun. But, most of the materials you need to build a garden
railroad come from the local sand & gravel company, the home
improvement center, and the garden center. You may be able to use
many of the tools you already own. Most of the skills you will
need are from 1:1 scale, i.e. surveying, landscaping, carpentry,
plumbing, electrical, and gardening. Of course you will need and
use many traditional model-railroading skills, i.e. kit building
and scratch building of structures and rolling stock, painting,
lettering, detailing, and some electronics. Don’t forget,
railroad history and layout design. The only skills that may
actually be unique to garden railroading are rail bending,
weatherproofing of structures, and rock gardening. But don’t
worry. If there are some things you are uncomfortable with,
don’t know how to do, or just don’t understand, there
will usually be a fellow garden railroader more than willing to
help out.
So in a nutshell, I guess I got into garden railroading because
it looked like a “do-able” project that had a good
chance of completion in something less than a life-time of
effort, at less overall cost, utilizing skills I already felt
comfortable with or knew I could easily learn. The larger trains
running outdoors were just a plus. Then, after getting involved,
I soon realized the real rewards were sharing the hobby with
others, including my family.
(Back to Index)
Thinking About a Water Feature for Your Garden Railroad? by Del Tapparo (NCGR Time Table, March 2002)
One of the nicest side benefits of garden railroading can be
just spending more time outdoors, enjoying the fresh air and
sunshine. So, if you’re going to be spending more time in
your backyard, you may as well make it as enjoyable as possible.
A water feature is a great compliment to any backyard. It can
provide endless entertainment and relaxation. The sounds of
moving water and the vision of swimming fish are extremely
relaxing. With a garden railroad, the constant water activity
adds life to your layout, whether the trains are running or not.
Bridges have a purpose with water flowing beneath them. And, your
trains will look right at home running along side a stream in the
mountains.
Much like designing a garden railroad, there are many things to
be considered before you start digging your pond. Choose a
location that will receive lots of sunlight and away from tree
droppings. Keep in mind you will be digging, so you may want to
avoid extensive relocation of utilities and sprinkler systems. A
depth of 30 to 36 inches is suggested to winter-over fish and
protect them from predators. You will also need some utilities
for the pond; power for the pumps and lights, and a source of
water for re-filling. Considering the safety of your kids and the
neighbors’. Your pond should be fenced in. And plumbing?
This can get more elaborate than you may think. You need to plan
for proper flow rates, maintenance of pumps, draining the pond,
and winterization.
There are some key components in the construction of a pond. A
pre-formed liner is an easy way to get a small pond up and
running, but you will soon find out it is difficult to maintain a
small pond. Larger ponds use a free form rubber liner that
conforms to the shape of the custom hole you dig. EPDM 45 mil is
popular. Pump selection is important. Size your pump to do a
complete water exchange at least every 2 hours; e.g. a 1000
gallon pond needs at least a 500 gallon per hour pump. And choose
a filter system that is easy to maintain. You will be cleaning it
often.
Of course in order to enjoy your pond, you are going to have to
maintain it. Your biggest problem will likely be algae, which can
either be treated with repetitive doses of chemicals, or the
installation of a UV clarifier in the plumbing. If you design
accordingly, maintenance won’t be a big headache. Most of
it, as with the garden railroad, can be done while you are
running trains and enjoying the outdoors.
Daily maintenance consists of feeding the fish and removing debris and algae. You may need to clean your filter and perhaps treat the water to control algae on a monthly basis. Seasonal duties involve keeping the leaves out of the water in the fall and protecting the fish and plants in the winter. If leaves are a problem, you may need to cover the pond with netting in the Fall and/or frequently skim leaves out of the water to avoid a thick layer of bottom debris in the spring. In the Winter, Plants need to be lowered in the water to protect them from freezing, and you also need to keep the pond from freezing over completely to allow toxic gas produced by the fish to escape. Heaters, pumps, and/or running water will keep it open. In the Spring, you may have to drain your pond in order to clean it properly. And in the Summer, you will have to keep the plant and fish populations in check in order to maintain a healthy balance. Like anything else, it is easy once you know how, but do know that what you are getting into will require some work.
Here are a few Internet links that will help you learn more
about ponds and the many products available. If you do a search
on "Pond" you will find all kinds of personal pages
with tips and construction photos, much like garden railroading.
Pond Links
www.ponddoc.com/construction.htm
www.pondandgarden.com
www.justliners.com
www.pond-o-mania.com/pondtips.htm
www.pondsupplies.com/pondschool
www.pondmarket.com
So what do you think? Is there a pond in your garden railroad's
future?
(Back to Index)
My Other Club is MyLargeScale.com by Del Tapparo (NCGR Time Table, April 2002)
If you have a computer and Internet service, and for some
reason you have yet to discover MyLargescale.com, then please be
advised. You are missing out on a great resource for garden
railroading. There are currently several different generic large
scale forums available: LargeScaleOnLine and LargeScaleCentral
come to mind. LargeScaleOnLine used to be a nice resource. But
with all of their recent changes, you now have to be a paying
member before you can even read the postings on the forum.
LargeScaleCentral is deserted (I’m not sure it ever had any
real activity). There are also some manufacturer’s forums
that are very useful for product specific information.
The beauty of MyLargescale.com, with all of its daily activity,
is that you can ask a question one night, and have 10 darn good
solutions by the next day! The members are garden railroaders
from all over the US, Canada, and Australia. You get some diverse
answers, probably some that you don’t agree with, but others
that you never would have thought of. It is just like going to a
club meeting and asking for some advice, except you get more of
it and much faster. Sometimes the solutions will seem pretty odd,
because garden railroading doesn’t work the same in all
climates, and each local group has probably established a
“best way to do it” in their part of the country. Many
of the posts contain excellent photos of some outstanding models
and the author is probably just dieing to tell you how he did it.
After posting your question, you can “Subscribe” to the
topic. This means every time someone replies to the topic, you
will receive an e-mail notification. Just click on the link, and
read the response on the site. This is nice, because you
don’t have to remember what you posted, and you don’t
have to periodically check the site to see if there is a response
yet.
The forum is just one aspect of the site. It’s the one I use
most. But, they also have a chat room, and articles detailing how
to scratch build locomotives, links to member’s web pages,
etc.
A large number of folks are using MyLargescale.com on a daily
basis. To date, 574 members (including me) have made over 21,000
posts in 21 different forums since June of 2000. You can use
nearly all of the services at no charge. There is no pressure to
join, no junk mail, and no annoying banners popping up. The cost
to become a Gold member, if you choose, is only $18 per year.
This gives you access to the Gold Member’s Forum, 10 MB of
web space on their server, and another e-mail address. I feel I
have already received much more than $18 worth of benefit from
the site, so I joined to support it and keep it alive.
So, to supplement your NCGR activities, you might want to check
out http://www.mylargescale.com/
(Back to Index)
Easy Coal Loads by Del Tapparo (NCGR Time Table, May 2002)
What do you use for a load in that gondola or ore car? Real
rock is pretty heavy and usually the wrong scale. A real piece of
coal could be crushed to scale size, but it is pretty hard to
find these days.
Here is a simple way to make lightweight, cheap, and fairly
realistic looking coal loads or coal piles for your railroad
using white Styrofoam. I think many garden railroaders may use
this method. I got the idea from Bob Simmons during a DGRS tour,
and again on-line from Stan Cedarleaf at MyLargeScale.com.
Use Expanded Polystyrene (EPS); the stuff used in common packing
materials, not the craft foam used in Christmas decorations, and
not the blue or pink Polystyrene Rigid Foam used for house
insulation. If you look closely, EPS Styrofoam has a cellular
structure similar to a beehive. Your coal will turn out to be
approximately the size of the cells.
Here is the process I used -
Cut out a block of Styrofoam a little larger than needed for the
job, or glue several pieces together with silicon adhesive.
Shape the foam to fit using a Stanley “Surform”
finishing tool. This is pretty messy.
Rough up the surface by hand using a wire brush to give it as
much texture as possible. If you don’t have a
“Surform” tool, a steak knife and a wire brush can also
be used for shaping.
Lightly spray the foam with Acrylic spray paint. This will melt
the foam, so don’t overdue it. The idea is to just melt all
the fuzz you just created with the wire brush. Too much and the
overall shape of the foam will change. The paint can be any
color. I used clear matte finish. The cells in the foam seem to
act as boundaries and somewhat define the shape of the coal.
For a coal load, paint it flat or satin black using Latex spray
paint. Latex paint can be found at craft stores. It is safe for
use on Styrofoam. Use tan paint and weathering techniques to
simulate other types of rock loads.
(Back to Index)
Large Scale Shopping by Del Tapparo (NCGR Time Table, July 2002)
The components of a garden railroad come from many sources.
Much of what you need to do the landscaping, electrical work, and
plumbing can be purchased from the local home improvement center.
In shopping for these items, I usually try to plan what I need
for the project prior to going in the store. But when I get
there, I usually see some other solutions to the problem on
display. Prior to making the purchase, I can get my hands on the
item, take measurements, and ask some questions. Even then, I
usually go home and find out I bought the wrong thing or it
won’t fit. I am sure you have been down this path many
times. After multiple trips to the store, the project finally
gets done.
Most home improvement centers are just down the street or across
town. However, most of the main characters in your railroad, the
locomotives, rolling stock, and structures, can’t be
purchased locally. You must either make a special trip to the big
city, or deal via mail, telephone, or Internet. Once in awhile,
you will be able to acquire some used equipment from fellow club
members or those getting out of the hobby. But the problem is
always the same for me. I want all the information I can get
before purchasing an item that will be difficult or impossible to
return. And in the world of Large Scale there seems to be little
or no information on most items.
There seems to be only two levels of information, whether it is
an ad in a magazine or a web page.
Second-Class - The more detailed ads, usually from the
manufacturer, will include a picture, a brief description of all
the improvements, and perhaps the MSRP (Manufacturer’s
Suggested Retail Price), which everyone knows is vastly different
from the street price. There are never any meaningful
specifications given. You are lucky if they even tell you what
scale the model represents. After awhile, you figure out the
primary scale associated with each of the major manufacturers and
each of their lines. But sometimes they don’t even seem to
know what scale it is. I have a rail bus that is routinely
advertised by its maker as 1:24 scale, but the box is clearly
labeled 1:29 scale.
Third-Class - Then there are the high volume discount hobby
stores. They will merely give you a listing of part numbers and
prices for each different brand they carry. It is totally up to
you to know what you are buying. This permits them to advertise
hundreds of items in minimal space, saving them money, so they
can discount the merchandise.
When I am ready to make a purchase, I usually start by
scrutinizing all of the ads in the current issue of Garden
Railways magazine to get leads on finding vendors and the lowest
price. I then go to the web site of the nearest big city hobby
shop to find the higher price I would have to pay if I were
willing to make the drive. This always leads me back to the
discount hobby shops on-line, where I find much better prices,
but no information.
When visiting web sites, many have provisions for showing a
picture and small description of the item (which I have termed
Class 2 information), but usually the photos are “not
available”, probably due to the huge effort it would require
to install and maintain all those thousands of pictures. So where
is the best place to get information about a product? Well, you
would think directly from the manufacturer. But again, you will
probably find second-class information, at best. I am pleased if
I can just see a picture. One manufacturer told me via his
elaborate web site, that the specifications could be found in
their paper catalog, which is available for $8. Why can’t
they just publish it on-line?
So what is First-Class? - Would it be too much to ask for some
real information and specifications from the manufacturer? All we
really want to know is if this device will be compatible with our
garden railroad. What is the scale? (Will the scale be compatible
with my existing equipment?) What are the physical dimensions?
(Will the locomotive clear my tunnel?) What is the minimum
turning radius? (Will it run on my track?) Specifications, even
simple ones, provide all of your customers with information based
on standards; e.g. vertical height in inches, as opposed to
comparative information; e.g. George telling you it clears his
brand X tunnel portals OK.
So how do you answer these questions?
Join a club. A fellow club member may already own or have
experience with the product you are looking for. Get their
opinion and maybe some hands-on to see if it will meet your
needs.
Visit the hobby shop. Get your “hands-on” at the hobby
shop, then buy on-line? I like to support my local or big city
hobby shops whenever I can. If the price is reasonable I am
willing to pay a little more for the convenience of having it
today. But if there is a significant price difference, I’m
going to buy it on-line.
Product Reviews. Garden Railways publishes product reviews.
Unfortunately, they don’t always include the specs you may
be looking for. You may get a warm fuzzy feeling about buying the
product, but it still may not work on your railroad. George
Shreyer’s Large Scale Tech Tips web site,
http://www.trainweb.org/girr/ and other individual’s so
inclined may publish results they have had with a particular
product they own or have worked on.
On-Line Forums. Ask the “boys” on-line to give you
their opinion. You will get many! This is actually a pretty good
source of information. Some will report the problems they have
had, and others will praise it. Just keep asking until you get
the answers you are looking for. MyLargeScale.com, Aristo,
Bachman, and others provide current feedback.
I find this lack of information a bit annoying. But then again,
the process of the search itself usually leads to something else
of value, like yet another large-scale product I can’t live
without. Browsing through hobby shops, magazines, and Web sites
is just another interesting aspect of this hobby.
Happy shopping!
(Back to Index)
A Building is Only as Good as its Foundaton by Del Tapparo (NCGR Time Table, August 2002)
Most structures are completely open on the bottom to allow
access to the interior for repairs, adding lighting, changing
interior details, etc. In touring garden railroads, I have seen
many different solutions to placing structures on the layout.
Some folks just plop the building directly on the ground, which
works just fine. Others provide some sort of base or foundation
for the building to sit on. So why would you even need a
foundation?
I decided a building foundation (or base) should have these
functions -
The building is easily removable, and not permanently fastened to
the base.
The base serves as a placeholder on the layout. You can take the
building in for storage or repairs and place it back in exactly
the same spot, and the plants won’t invade the spot while it
is gone.
The base keeps the building level. Even small variations in level
are noticeable from across the yard.
The base prevents the structure from blowing off its base or
tipping over during high winds.
The level surface of the base somewhat seals the bottom of the
building.
And probably most important, extensions of the base around the
building provide a place to glue down the details of your venue;
i.e. the people, boxes, shovels, etc. This keeps everything in
place when watering or the wind blows. When you move the building
inside, everything comes with it. No setup time is required when
it returns.
As most of us, I am learning, and probably reinventing the wheel,
as I explore the different facets of this hobby. My current
design for building foundations consists of a “cement
sandwich”. One side of the sandwich is always on the ground.
The other side is attached to the building.
I have found several products made of cement that seem perfect
for outdoor use and exposure to daily watering.
“Wonder-Board” and “Hardi-Backer Board” are
both made of cement. Both can be easily cut to the exact size you
need using a carbide tipped blade. I use a Jig Saw. Wear a Face
Mask, as a lot of fine dust is produced. Wonder-Board is ½”
thick and can be found near the drywall at the home improvement
store. It is used as tile backer board. Hardi-Backer board is
¼” thick and can be found in the tile section at the home
improvement store. The Hardi-Backer board cuts very clean, and
unlike plywood, it won’t warp. As an added bonus, it can be
painted or stained! Hardi-Backer board is used for house siding,
roofing, and tile backer board.
The Wonder-Board is used as the foundation that is permanently
placed on the layout. It is buried, with only the topside
exposed. The Hard-Backer board is permanently attached to the
bottom of the building using Silicone adhesive. It is cut larger
than the building to provide space as needed for mounting
details. A large hole is cut in the middle of the Hardi-Backer
board to provide access to the building interior. Wooden blocks,
located just inside the perimeter of the building, are glued down
to the Wonder-Board. You can also drill holes in the Wonder-Board
for wire entry, if needed. The blocks keep the building from
sliding sideways or tipping over. The Hardi-Backer board is
stained as appropriate to match the building. One side has some
texture on it; the other is smooth. I stain the textured side and
use it for the side that shows.
The Hardi-Backer board, and all of the details mounted to it, is
lifted off the foundation when the building is removed. With the
building removed, you see the Wonder-Board foundation with wooden
blocks mounted on it. To install the building, you lower the
building over the blocks to rest on the Wonder-Board. So far, I
am very pleased with this system.
(Back to Index)
Build A Simple Crossbuck by Del Tapparo (NCGR Time Table, October 2002)
Those of you who have attended a DGRS (Denver Garden Railway
Society) garden railroad tour, have undoubtedly noticed the host
railroad is almost always sporting a railroad cross buck in front
of the house to assist visitors in locating their railroad.
It’s a great idea! After navigating to within a block of the
home, you can quickly spot the cross buck and zero in on a
parking space without first doing a drive-by to verify the street
address.
This is a simple project that can be done many different ways.
Cross Bucks seem to come in at least two different
configurations. Crossed at 90 degree angles, or crossed at odd
angles, such that the vertical spacing between slats is less than
the horizontal, giving it a flatter look. A small nameplate below
the cross buck usually indicates the number of tracks to be
crossed, but it is also a convenient place for the name of your
railroad. You need to consider how you are going to support the
sign. Where do you want to display it?
I decided my cross buck would always be in the same place, in the
front yard, but only on tour days. So, the cross buck post
(round) slips into a mating pipe buried in the ground about
11". When not in use, the mounting pipe is capped off at
ground level. To install the sign, the cap is removed, and the
post is inserted into the mounting pipe, which keeps it nice and
vertical (plum). A horizontal hole drilled through both the sign
post and the mounting pipe accepts an alignment bolt to keep the
sign post from rotating, so it is always facing the same
direction, regardless of wind, etc. It also provides some
protection from a passerby easily walking off with your sign.
This cross buck can be built from one cedar fence slat, some PVC
pipe, and a few carriage bolts.
Here is the Bill of Materials:
2 - Cross Buck slats, 30" X 3 1 /2" X 1/2" cedar
1 - Name Plate slat, 30" X 3 1 /2" X 1/2" cedar
2 - 3" X 1/4" carriage bolts and nuts
3 - 2 1/2" X 1/4" carriage bolts and nuts
1 - Sign Post, 6' X 1" PVC pipe
1 - Sign Post Cap, 1" PVC cap
1 - Holder, 11 X 1 1/4 PVC pipe
1 - Holder Cap, 1 1/4 PVC cap
1 Set - 3 inch Stencils, Alphabet
Black & White paint, as needed
All materials are available at your home improvement store,
including the stencils.
Mount the cross buck slats at 90 degree angles to the post using
two 3 inch carriage bolts. This can be a little tricky. Use
clamps to hold everything in alignment prior to drilling. Mount
the name plate to the post using two 2- 1/2" carriage bolts.
Install the post cap. Paint the whole thing white. Tape stencils
to the sign slats using masking tape to maintain alignment, then
paint the lettering black. Drill the alignment holes through both
the sign post and the holder pipe, near the top of the holder.
Bury the 11" holder pipe at the desired location. Insert the
sign in the holder and install the alignment bolt (the remaining
2-1/2" carriage bolt).
You are now ready to display your cross buck for club meetings
and garden railroad tours. Or, just use it to let the
neighborhood know when you are open for visitation. Whether you
use this design, or your own variation, a cross buck will add
just one more aspect of fun to your railroad.
(Back to Index)
Transporting, Storing, and Controlling Large Scale Trains by Del Tapparo (NCGR Time Table, November 2002)
What do you do with your trains and controls between operating
sessions? Ideally, when you want to run trains, the only setup
time should be that required to pop open a cool one and walk out
to the layout. However, rolling stock, especially locomotives,
should be protected from the elements in order to prolong the
life of the equipment. A safe and secure location is also
desirable to avoid potential vandalism or theft. And, easy access
would be nice for periodic inspection and service. And probably
the most important requirement is minimum setup and teardown
times when you want to run trains.
Here are some of the various methods in use -
Just Leave the Trains Outside
This is a valid option for rolling stock. The biggest problem is
security, depending where you live, and of course, accelerated
aging. Locomotives are best kept safely indoors.
Carry-In Trains
Most of us start out by simply carrying the trains to the track,
requiring several trips, depending on the size of the train.
Transport carts and boxes can minimize the number of trips, but
now you have to pack and unpack the cart.
Drive-In Trains
Probably the best situation is driving trains into a heated shop,
basement, or garage under their own power. You have good working
conditions, excellent security, and both you and the trains are
out of the weather. Outdoor walk-in garden sheds are probably the
next best thing. Or, you can build a dedicated train shed to
protect the trains from the weather in between operating sessions
and still provide some security. Service, will still require hand
carrying trains to the shop area.
Location of Controls (if you run track power) -
If you don’t have access to 115 VAC at your layout, indoor
mounting of controls is an option. This means you will be running
long runs of low voltage wiring to the layout. While this is very
safe, it also induces voltage drops and power losses. But it will
work just fine. Keep in mind, if you use a remote control system
like “Train Engineer” that controls track power (as
opposed to locomotive power), this may increase the distance
between the transmitter and receiver (which will now be indoors).
You will probably need 115 VAC on your layout to run pond pumps
or lighting systems anyway. The controls can then be located
outdoors, close to the track. However, this creates the problem
of protecting the controls from the weather. You can either make
a portable setup that has to be transported indoors between
sessions. Or, you need to provide a permanent, secure, and
protected enclosure for the controls.
Transporting Rolling Stock
For security and protection from the elements in between
operating sessions -
Without a doubt, the easiest way to move a train is under its own
power. With a dedicated secure train storage location, you just
drive it in and lock it up. No uncoupling or handling of any
rolling stock is required.
To another layout -
There will be times when you want to run on a friend’s
layout or perhaps a club layout. This usually requires some sort
of padded box to pack the individual cars in so that they can be
transported by car without damage. The packing process itself may
easily knock off fragile detail parts. It takes several boxes and
a set of luggage "Wheels" to move even a short
large-scale train.
Storage space
Indoors vs.: Outdoors -
A heated space with a built in work area is ideal so you can work
in comfort right on the spot. The equipment is fully protected
from the weather and temperature extremes. A heated garage or a
basement with a train entry door is ideal. Everything you need is
right there and ready to go. Unheated spaces are not as inviting
to work in, so the work may be put off until nicer weather
returns. Security is as good as it gets indoors. However, be
aware that an open garage door may be an open invitation to
thieves. Large scale trains require a great deal of storage space
in the form of wall space for shelves, if you hand carry, or
floor space for yard tracks if you drive in. The control system
may also require some space.
Outdoor buildings aren’t quite as secure, but they can be
locked up. A garden shed makes a great remote storage site. You
can store rolling stock on wall shelving and still have space for
a small yard. Scale buildings on the layout can be also be used
for storage of one or two trains.
The solutions you choose to transport, store, and control your
trains will be determined by many factors. This is just another
problem that with a little thought and planning should lead to
more fun and less work when operating your garden railroad.
(Back to Index)
Last updated 11-02-2002