How to Grow
Dwarf Citrus

TABLE OF CONTENTS:

 

What Are True Dwarf 
Citrus

 

Planting Location

 

Before Planting

 

Planting in the Ground

 

Planting in a Container

 

Watering

 

Fertilizing

 

Minor Elements

 

Suckering

 

Pruning

 

Pest Control

 

Mulches

 

Freeze Protection

 

Variety Tags

 

Espaliering

 

Growing Indoors
 

Frequently Asked Questions




WHAT ARE TRUE DWARF CITRUS?

They are orchard-proven fruit-producing varieties, grafted on cultivar specific dwarfing rootstocks. Grown in the ground, they create a highly productive tree averaging eight feet tall depending on variety. They are smaller when grown in a container. True Dwarf citrus are grafts, not self-rooted cuttings. Dwarfing is achieved by using specific cultivar varieties. Plant experts rate trees by what they call their "F's":
  1. Functional: Compatible with today's outdoor intimate garden living.
  2. Form: Dwarf, occupying 1/4 the space of orchard trees, suited to today's smaller lot size.
  3. Four season: Year-round beauty.
  4. Foliage: Evergreen, very decorative.
  5. Flowers: Attractive.
  6. Fragrant: Producing rich, pleasant.
  7. Fruit: Edible, colorful, and highly decorative.
  8. Flavor-full: Good to eat or drink.
Four Winds True Dwarf citrus exceed these requirements. You may plant any time of the year. Because our trees are conviently grown in containers. Unlike balled trees, you get all the roots.

PLANTING


PLANTING LOCATION

A sunny, wind free, southern exposure is best. Don't crowd, for even though the tree is a dwarf it will need room for its eight-foot ultimate size.

Lawn areas should be avoided except where the lawn has good drainage. Provide a generous watering basin. Water regularly and thoroughly.

If adequate growing heat is a problem, select a site to provide extra heat, as in a sun pocket provided by reflected heat from surfaced areas; house, walls, fence, patio, walks, driveways, overhangs with southern exposure.

If in doubt, leave the tree in the can. Place it where you would like it to grow. You can soon tell if the plant is happy. If not, try another spot.

True Dwarf citrus thrive when planted in containers. Thus, they are mobile-can be moved around like furniture.


BEFORE PLANTING

Good Drainage is Essential
Assure this by:
  1. In the ground, plant in a mound, slightly above the garden grade.
  2. Plant in a raised bed.
  3. Grow in a patio container.
Test your drainage. Dig a hole 30" deep. Fill with water to saturate the soil. The next day refill it with water. Your drainage is OK if the water level drops 2" in two hours. If the water does not drain, plant in a raised bed. A True Dwarf citrus tree is a long-time, valuable acquisition. Insure it through adequate, positive drainage.

Soil Requirements
Citrus are grown sucessfully in soils ranging from adobe to river bottom sand. However, soils rich in humus are best.



PLANTING IN THE GROUND

Remove the plant from the container. Note the abundant fibrous root system. Straighten out any circling roots before planting. Cut off and remove any broken roots.

Conduct a drainage test, (see before planting) and plant tree in test hole.

Backfill the hole with soil mix containing planter mix blended with an equal part of soil from the hole. Add no fertilizer to the mix; however, do apply some to soil surface after planting.

Plant the tree high. The first (upper) roots can be visible. Provide a liberal-size basin for watering around the tree. Stake until well-established.

Water. Fill basin slowly. After it has soaked in, fill the basin once more and let it soak in. Soak again in about one week, and weekly thereafter, more or less depending on your soil and climate. Keep the soil moist.


PLANTING IN A CONTAINER

The most popular planter for a # 5 size tree is 16 - 20 inches. This provides room for many years of root growth. Smaller containers may be quite satisfactory for two to four years.

Four Winds True Dwarf citrus are unique, having root systems that fit readily into containers of average depth.

Soil mix - Use a light, well drained planter mix. Add no fertilizer.

Drainage - Be sure there are numerous drainage holes in the bottom of the container. Remove the plant from the can, keeping the soil ball intact. Place the tree in the container. The graft should be well above the desired soil level. Add prepared soil mix. Allow two to three inches from soil to top of container for water. Firm the soil around the root ball.

Water thoroughly. Scatter balanced fertilizer as recommended on package and water in once more. Water again in two days. Water every week, or more often if necessary. DON'T LET THE TREE DRY OUT.



PLANT CARE



WATERING

Good drainage is essential. Keep the soil moist. Don't let the tree dry out.

In the ground, maintain a deep basin as wide as the tree. Citrus need a moist soil and air for roots - avoid airless and soggy soil. Allow time for it to drain between waterings.

In light, well - drained soil, water established trees about once or twice a week in dry weather, depending on climatic conditions.

In heavy clay soils, the air spaces are tiny. Excess water cannot drain away rapidly. Water deeply every two to three weeks, or more in dry weather. Allow time for it to drain and the surface to dry out, but don't go so far as to let new growth wilt.

In well - drained containers, water twice a week in normal summer weather - more often during hot spells - less frequently in the winter. Newly - planted trees need more frequent watering until they are established. If new growth wilts or leaves are dull, you are waiting too long to water. If you observe excessive fruit and leaf drop a few days after a heavy watering, the tree became too dry before it was watered. In the future, be thorough and consistent. Don't let the tree dry out.



FERTILIZING

Citrus are heavy feeders. It is best to use a balanced fertilizer which contains nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus (18-6-6 for example) and trace elements such as iron, zinc and manganese. Fertilize regularly as directed on the label. However, we recommend fertilizing lightly all year around. We recommend using slow release fertilizers with trace elements. Yellowing leaves usually are an indication of lack of fertilizer or poor drainage.



MINOR ELEMENTS - LEAF FEEDING

Citrus trees may develop deficiencies of minor food elements. Zinc, iron and manganese are most effective when sprayed on a new flush of growth. This should be applied when new growth is about two-thirds mature. Iron, zinc, and manganese may also be added to the soil in chelate form, scattered in the basin with other fertilizers. Many fertilizers include trace elements. Check the label.


SUCKERING

Know where the graft is on your tree. Remove all growth below it - it takes vitality away from the top. This is especially so with younger trees. Suckers are generally very vigorous and thorny, some have a different leaf shape than the fruiting stock. Remove them as soon as observed.



PRUNING

Trees may be pruned to any desired shape. They will look fuller with occasional pruning to shape leggy branches. Pinching back tips of new growth will help trees to round out. Some trees may develop erratic thorny juvenile growth above the graft. If so, cut it back at any time. Pruning can be done at any time of year except the winter.



PEST CONTROL

Fortunately, citrus have few insect pests. Since trees have edible fruit, insecticides should be used sparingly and carefully. Keep tree free from insects by washing dust off foliage occasionally with water. Always read and follow all directions carefully on pesticide labels and wear required protective clothing. Measure amount to be used carefully to prevent damage to the tree. There are insecticides available for use on citrus at your local nursery or home - improvement center. Rather than make recomendations, we will tell you what we use for some common insect pests.

  • Aphids - Light horticultural oil (1% solution) or Impede (Safer's Soap)
  • Scale - Light horticultural oil (1% solution)
  • Red spider mites - Light horticultural oil or Impede (Safer's Soap)
We never spray if it is above 90 ° or below 40 ° or if it is windy.



MULCHES

Liberal use of mulches will conserve precious water. Less water is needed as evaporation is reduced and weeds are inhibited. Redwood shavings, fir bark, gravel or crushed rock make good mulches. To avoid root diseases, keep mulch at least six inches away from the tree trunk.



FREEZE PROTECTION

The age, location and condition of the tree, degree and duration of cold determine possible damage from sub-freezing temperatures. Healthy, well-fertilized trees can tolerate brief dips into the upper twenties. Limes and lemons are more sensitive to cold than mandarins, kumquats, and oranges.

To Prevent Freeze Damage:
Anti-transpirent sprays give a few degrees of protection. Christmas lights and/or frost blankets (made from spun polyester) will add warmth for unusually cold nights. If you live in an area where citrus is not commercially grown, you can move or cover your dwarf tree if a cold night is forcasted.

Light weight frost blankets (spun polyester) also known as floating row cover, can provide 4-6 degrees protection. It can be draped over the plants and secured at the ground to trap daytime heat. It can be left on during the day unlike plastic covers. Used in combination with lights, it is a great way to protect cold sensitive plants.



PERMANENT VARIETY TAGS

Four Winds True Dwarf citrus have plastic tags. Leave on the tree for permanent identification. As the tree grows, move the tag to a smaller, outer branch to avoid cutting into the bark.



ESPALIERING

Four Winds citrus can be trained to grow on trelises like vines or in more formal designs. Simply use green garden ties to hold branches in place.

 


 


GROWING INDOORS AND UNDER GLASS

Most citrus can be grown and fruited in greenhouses or solariums. For most varieties cross pollination is not required for trees to set fruit. There is no need for bees.

If you are ordering by mail, your trees will arrive bare root (2-3 yr tree) or in a 4 x 6" container of soil (1 yr tree). Follow instructions for "planting in a container".

Trees grow fastest with night temperatures above 70°. They tend to become dormant below 55° and may suffer freeze damage below 27°. Give the tree as much light as possible. Fluorescent grow-lights may enhance growth. Midsummer shading in a greenhouse may be necessary to hold temperatures below 100 °.

Prune back leggy branches to keep tree full. It will put out new growth where pruned. Keep tree moist. Do not allow it to dry out. Citrus are heavy feeders. Feed all year around with a balanced fertilizer including trace elements.

Avoid sudden changes in environment. If moving trees indoors to outdoors, or vise versa, place trees in semi-shade for a month. After a period of time, soil elements may become spent. If this occurs, re-pot by partially bare-rooting the tree and pruning the top back. Remove any large circling roots and replant in fresh planter mix.



We are most interested in your success with Four Winds True Dwarf citrus trees.

Here are some frequently-asked questions and our answers:

Question - How often should I water?
Answer - Every week, more or less depending upon the weather.

Question - My trees continue to have loss of bloom. Why do they drop off, no fruit? - or, why does the small fruit drop off? - or, why do leaves drop off, twigs die back?
Answer - Correct watering is generally the solution. Trees in a windy location frequently have this problem.

Question - Why does established fruit drop off?
Answer - Orchardists have this problem "June Drop," caused by extremely hot, dry, windy spells in summer, fall - this despite adequate watering. Some "June Drop" is unavoidable. Be sure your trees are well watered. If the tree is in a container, move the tree temporarily to a protected wind-free location.

Question - My tree grows at a rapid rate, has for years, but doesn't fruit - why?
Answer - Possibly a rootstock sucker has taken over, especially if it's noticeably thorny. Find bud union-cut off all growth below it.

Question - Why does my tree have yellow foliage?
Answer - A healthy citrus tree will have a glossy deep green foliage. Provide adequate fertilizer with trace minerals following manufacturer's recommendation. Citrus like high nitrogen - that's why a 3-1-1 ratio or 18-6-6 works best.