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Nepal Travelog 9/29/99- flights to Asia: Seattle-Vancouver-Hong Kong- Bangkok. It is great to finally be on our way. I always feel much more at ease once the trip has started after all the days on anticipation. The kids are very excited and don't seem interested in sleeping much but hopefully will when we get on the main flight across the Pacific. 10/1/99 - Bangkok-Kathmandu. As expected, the Bangkok connection was full of uncertainty as to when, where and whether or not our bags would be transferred and the flight would take off. We all managed to nap in our "dayroom" that we rented for $10/hour. Now we are waiting the last few minutes for our plane to KTH. 10/2/99- KTH We arrived at KTH at about 11:30 PM into the sleeping city. The ride into our hotel was interesting- winding narrow streets littered with dogs and the occasional cow lying in the roadway. After our day and 1/2 of travel, it was great to finally get some sleep in a supine position. Awakening to the sounds of horns, birds and motor scooters, I smiled at the prospects of the day exploring the local Thamal area of town outside our hotel. Indeed it was a bit overwhelming for the kids, especially Daniel. The cacophony of sound and the pungent odor of the streets made us all very aware that we were really here. We met our host, Wongchu Sherpa and had a lengthy talk abut his work and how our trip was put together. He seems like a savvy and sophisticated businessman but with appreciation of the adventure that his clients seek. I had never realized that he had summitted Everest with Jim in '95. He also worked with the IMAX team coordinating their climb as well. Definitely feel like small potatoes compared to his normal clients. Off to dinner tonight at the climbers hangout- the Rumdoodle Bar. Tomorrow we head to Phaplu by plane, starting our trek in to Kunde. 10/3/99 KTH to Chiwanghop (8052 ft) We woke up early to prepare to head to the airport for the flight to Phaplu. At first we were certain that we would be stuck in KTH for at least two more days but amazing Wongchu told us the flight would go today. We went to the airport around 9:30 and waited until 1:30 for the flight. We flew to the east over several ranges in the Twin Otter for about 40 minutes. When we approached the valley, the clouds and rain moved in. The pilots struggled to find a gap in the clouds, finally spotting the grass strip on the mountainside. They dove down in a hard bank (almost felt like a helicopter ride) skirting the steep mountains on the west side of the valley and swooping down onto the airstrip. We met Kami, our youthful Sherpa guide and his 4 Sherpa guides to carry our few things. It will be an easy week for them! Once our gear was divided up, we started out with a tour of the local hospital- 24 beds- about 8 occupied. TB, trauma, CHF from rheumatic heart dz., nephrotic syndrome and a toddler with a severe pneumonia (who looked like she would not make it long) were among the patients there. Dr. Sharma and his nurses ran the hospital that was started with funds from Hillary's foundation. 10/4/99 Chiwanghop to Ringmo (9174 ft) What a great day. Started with a steep climb to a monastery 1400 ft above our teahouse at 9750 ft. We met several monks who showed us how they lived and some of their ceremonial pictures and paintings. Quite a climb for the kids who did great. The rest of the day was a hike along the steep hillsides that wind there way up to Ringmo. The forest was beautiful and looked a bit like the Northwest. Had a very long lunch hoping to avoid the rain but we walked in the drizzle much of the way. Despite the rain, we had an enjoyable time talking along the trail and viewing the mountain flowers and greenery. 10/5/99 Ringmo to Nuntala (7724 ft) Today was our first pass day. Starting from Ringmo where we had a peek-a-boo view of some towering peaks to the north covered with new snow. The pass at Traksindu La, which is at around 10,134 ft, was our main goal of the day. The kids paced themselves and did just fine. Unfortunately, the clouds moved in on the way up and our views were totally obscured. One can see Everest from here but not today. We stopped for lunch just over the pass with the clouds swirling around us. Our lunch was the usual local fare- rice and a potato curry or dal bhat but this time made by a good cook with enough spice. The hike down to Nuntala was a long downhill run, and a great idea. It allows us to break the descent to Jubing in half, and avoid the foot pounding that a 5,000-ft descent would cause. Still waiting for the clouds to break; though it is at least warm today (in the low 70's). 10/6/99 Nuntala to Kharikhola (7128 ft) A big day with lots of elevation change and Kristin excelled despite being the first to fall ill with vomiting. The first part of the morning was cool and the clouds swirled around the valley before us to the north. Kristin threw up twice, the second one on the trail after being carried part of the way down by Kami. The temperature warmed rapidly despite the cloud cover as we descended 2500 feet to the Dudh Kosi River. Then we climbed a steep trail to a saddle that marks the beginning of the village of Kharikhola. Kristin led the way the whole climb at a great pace- both her and Daniel are amazing climbers. We arrived at our teahouse with time for a warm shower and time to write before darkness settles in. 10/7/99 Kharikhola -Puyan (9110 ft) The day was one of the biggest climbs we will have and unfortunately the weather was not the most cooperative. When we woke up, we could see some of the peaks in the first range heading north. But the clouds started to creep in within 2 hours and we only had it at our backs during the vigorous climb out of the Karakhola valley. The odor of human feces on the trail was amazing as the porters use it as a continuous toilet. As we climbed into the clouds the mist became so thick it was almost like rain. We traversed some extremely steep faces with slippery rocks all the way today along with a 3000-ft climb. Trying to keep the kids ontrack wasn't hard but had to be done continuously, as one couldn't afford a misstep. So a hot climb, slippery rocks, and the onset of some mild diarrhea for both kids and Peg made for a low morale day. Having some dryness and visibility would be very welcome tomorrow. The poverty in this region is quite severe. It seems that as we have headed northward, the squalor worsens, and the people appear more destitute. The porters carry huge loads. Sometimes of liquids like kerosene which must weigh over 40 lbs. per container. Many of then appear to carry over 150 lbs. total, often wearing slippers or bear feet. It is more impressive watching them as the days go on. 10/8/99 Puyan to Chaunrikarka (8824 ft) Finally, the weather shows signs improvement. Just after sunrise, the clouds along the Dhud Kosi gorge separated and we had great views up the river valley. We could spy the route up that we would be taking for the next 3 days until we reach Namche and finally Kunde.. The trail today was rugged again today, requiring a lot of concentration to avoid falling. We traversed steep slopes with frequent streams and a beautiful cascading waterfall that had scoured out its spiraling path through the rock face of the mountainside. We covered about 5 miles today with a total climb of about 1500-ft. so it was an easy day. The trails here are steep when they begin to climb though, and that with the altitude makes it a good challenge. 10/9/99 Chaunrikarka to Monjo (9388 ft) Totally clear skies this morning! We had several great views of 3 of the larger peaks visible from the valley. The terrain here is so steep it is hard to see out of the valley. The constant roar of the river followed us up the trail as we crossed it twice today as we made our way up the gorge. The net gain was quite small today but there were many short steep climbs as we crossed over numerous streams. We passed through many small villages that clearly are more well to do than where we started our trek. The closer we get to Namche, the nicer the lodges too. Also the people look cleaner and better nourished than south of Lukla. The lesson of the day was "a lot can happen in a forty meter contour line". We hiked about 8 miles today- longest ever for the kids with lots of ups and downs. Tomorrow is a short day but a big vertical gain. 10/10/99 Monjo to Namche Bazar (11420 ft) The big climb out of the Dhud Kosi gorge went very well today. We started a bit late and had to go through the checkpoint just outside of Monjo, which serves as the entrance to Sagarmartha National Park. Daniel of course was quite fascinated with the Gurkha guards. We made slow and steady progress up the 1800-ft climb to Namche. We spotted Mt. Everest on our way up viewing it through Imja Dranka River valley. The skies were totally blue to the north, and the clouds moved up again from the south by mid-afternoon. Again the maps don't do justice to the steepness of this terrain. We could see 5 huge peaks in the surrounding Kumbu area, most over 20,000 feet. We are very excited but our hike up tomorrow when the skies will likely be clear again as we head to Kunde. The kids have been amazing- again hiking so well even at high altitude. I think feel the worst with the nasty cold that I have. We finally ran into some families with kids today, one interesting British family who are missionaries from Kathmandu and another from Utah. We talked for some time with the British folks who work over here with United Mission to Nepal teaching Dentistry. They seem like quite an extraordinary family. Had Yak steak today - tastes just like beef- not gamy at all. This town is quite civilized, even has a German backerei.
Another beautiful morning with an early start with visit to the museum outside of Namche on our way up to Khunde. We had amazing views again of Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam and Tramaserku. After spending time gazing at the mountains, we climbed straight up the hill to Khunde. It was a slow climb in the thin air. Peg developed a whopping headache after we arrived but it resolved in a few hours, probably from hyperventilation more than altitiude. Jim and Rachel were here when we arrived. We had a great time starting to catch up. This is a beautiful spot that they live in, nestled in a valley with an awesome view of the peaks. 10/12/99 Khunde (12,800 ft) Our first day of staying put. We were surrounded by clouds all day today and had very cool temperatures- in the 40's most of the day. It was a day to catch up on rest and I worked in the clinic today with the very capable medical assistants, Rachel and Bryn. We took out a Norplant and replaced it with new one, saw a hypertensive, influenza, and my first real case of HAPE. This patient was pretty sick but didn't look it- a real eye opener for me. Her O2 sat was 74%, which was shocking when you looked at her appearance. I really enjoyed learning from this case today. We took a great walk today through the clouds in a pasture area just outside of the village then returned to talk about all aspects of our lives. Had Nak cheese pizza for dinner which was very tasty along with fresh salad from Rachel's greenhouse.
10/13/99 Khunde (12,800 ft.) Another interesting day in the clinic with several cardiac cases today. First was a 60 y.o. lady with palpations who ended up with atrial flutter with 2:1 block. Placed on propranolol 40mg and when we rechecked her 8 houirs later and she had converted to sinus rhythm. Jim and I did a home visit on a 69 yo with CHR, CRF and new onset bilious vomiting in the next village. We advised that he come for admission and the family carried him on a stretcher all the way here. The final case was a 20 y.o. German trekker with a history of syncope in the past with 2 nocturnal episodes of chest pressure possibly panic but with all of her symptoms and remoteness, Jim and Rach felt she should be air evac'ed out. No views today, a few snow flurries at noon and new dusting of snow in the higher peaks just a thousand feet above us. We really need the weather to change. Interesting lunch today - we were invited to othe monastery to have lunch with the head monk. We were royally served a huge meal and were greeted with warm hospitality. Received his blessing on departure. On to page 2 ---> |
